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FOREWORD 

CONSIDERED solely as a thoroughfare of the present time, the route mapped 
and described in these pages would be one of the most important and inter- 
esting in the United States. But that is only the visible framework of our 
subject. If the principal events of American history, east of the Ohio river, 
were to be reproduced as a system of moving pictures, localities along the Lincoln High- 
way in Pennsylvania would, perhaps with surprising frequency, form a background for 
them. 

For more than a century and a half, the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh route, in part or as a 
whole, has been a vital factor in the life and progress of the colony and the state. Dur- 
ing much of that time, it was a channel for the "westward movement," probabh' equal 
in the aggregate to that of the National Road (Baltimore-Hagerstown-Cumberland-Un- 
iontown-Wheeling). Over these two pre-eminent highways of the olden time, the most 
important settlements between the Ohio and Mississippi rivers were made before the 
present northern route through New York State was opened up from the Mohawk river 
to Lake Erie. 

Within recent years, somewhat through the development of extensive central-western 
and transcontinental connections, this Pennsylvania main-line has come into greater 
national prominence; and the name by which it is now^ generally known applies from the 
Atlantic to the Pacific. But no other one section compares with this for historic associ- 
ations. There is a seeming echo of "far away and long ago" in the names of the Santa 
Fe and Oregon trails of the far west; but as thoroughfares for travel, emigration and 
commerce, they belong to a much later era. 

Three points on this route, or the events they represent or recall, are of transcendent 
importance, in the sense that they have influenced all subsequent history on this conti- 
nent. In chronological order these are, (1) Pittsburgh, where in 1758, toward the close 
of the Old French War, British sovereignty, whose supremecy had not yet been challenged 
in the seaboard colonies, dislodged the French power, thereby changing the political 
status of the Ohio River valley, and facilitating immigration into the territory now com- 
prising our cental-western States; (2) Philadelphia, the largest and most influential com- 
munity of the Revolutionary period, and possessing, in Independence Hall, our one great- 
est national landmark; and (3) Gettysburg, scene of the culminating movement of op- 
posing forces in the War of 1861-'65. Lancaster and York are almost — but perhaps not 
quite — within that remarkable circle of supreme events. No other road equals this one 
for visible evidence or memories of the determining conflicts in American history. 

This through route also exemplifies the evolution of transportation, from Indian 
path to pack-horse trail, crude freight-wagon road, stage-coach turnpike, railroad and 
modern highway, probably better than any other single thoroughfare in the country to- 
day. In fact, the condition and character ot the route at different periods are best in- 
dexed by the transportation facilities which served it at the time. 

Considerable attention has been paid throughout this work to topography, by the 
aid of which the subject unfolds in natural and logical order; and the traveler is assisted 
in correctly placing the historical references. The successive maps also provide a moving 
index for the route, with the single drawback that in traveling from east to west, the maps 
are necessarily read from right to left, opposite to the w^ay of reading the lines of type. 

Places are given their correct names at the time to which the references apply; for ex- 
ample, the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers was prior to 1754 the 
"Forks of the Ohio," thence up to November 1758, Fort DuQuesne, and after that Fort 
Pitt, or Pittsburgh. Until after the French and Indian War and the disturbances fol- 
lowing it. the present Bedford and Ligonier were known mainly as "forts," with those 
names added to identify them. Harrisburg was "Harris' Ferry," and Wrightsville-Co- 
lumbia was "Wright's Ferry," for much of the time the Susquehanna river crossings were 
on the old frontier. Fortunately, the former names have been so nearly preserved in the 

SEP 13 1920 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



present ones that the slight changLS in orthography do not obscure the references to these 
and other localities. 

My obligations for courtesies extended and co-operation received are so many that 
suitable acknowledgments are difficult. For 27 months, the original version of this sub- 
ject appeared in preliminary form as a serial in Motor Travel, the magazine of the Auto- 
mobile Club of America, New York City, during all of which time, Mr. John T. R. Gren. 
.Managing Editor, gave to it his very best attention and care. 1 he Historical Society of 
Pennsylvania and the Franklin Institute, both of Philadelphia, anil the libraries of that 
city, have several times opened their archives freely to me. Miss Luc\- A. Sampson, of 
Berwyn, not only took most of the photographs between Philadelphia and Lancaster, 
but has assisted greatly in securing and arranging the detail along that section. 

Most of the maps were originally made for this work by a first-class professional 
draftsman, but without personal acquaintance with the territory traversed. In the pro- 
cess of the work, and in preparation for publication, practically all of them were thor- 
oughly revised by Mr. C. H. Dietrick, in the office of .A. A. Taltavall, Assistant Engineer 
Pennsylvania R. R., Philadelphia, who also made the map showing ways out of Phila- 
delphia and the special one of the side-trip to Braddock's Field. 

Hon. Charles I. Landis, of Lancaster, President Judge of the Second Judicial District 
of Pennsylvania, has supplied many items of almost indispensable information, and 
favored me with a long and interesting correspondence. Rev. Dr. George P. Donehoo, 
of Coudersport, Secretary of the Pennsylvania Historical Commission, has always been 
ready with valuable counsel. Col. John P. Nicholson, Chairman, and Col. E. B. Cope, 
Engineer, of the Gettysburg National Park Commission, and .Mr. Wni. C. Storrick, 
Forester, have given much valuable assistance in the Gettysburg section. 

Hon. William Wayne, Paoli, Mr. Joseph Beale, Coatesville, Mr. (Jeorge R. Prowell, 
>()rk, Mr. George S. Hummer, New Oxford, Mr. W. A. Culbertson. Chambersburg, 
Mr. E. Howard Blackburn, Bedford, John N. Boucher, Esq., Greensburg, and Mr. J. 
Walter Miles, Irwin, have made valuable contributions to the structure of the work, as 
well as supplying details. I have been in frequent correspondence with Mr. Paul C. 
Wolff, Secretary of the Pennsylvania Motor Federation and the .Automobile Club of 
Pittsburgh, on points relating to that city and western Pennsylvania generally. 



May 1, 1920. 



k. B. 




/• L. A/. ( r.urv , Bcdjord 
rilAE<ACTERISTIC STRETCH AlONG THIS ROUTE IN THE MOUNTAINS 

Near Brcizi-wiiod. iibout II miles east of Everett, Pa. The lonK ribbon of macadam makes several sllort angles and 
curve', to secure the easiest ttrades to the point where it can malce a final nearly straight ascent of the ridge, beyond 
which it descends into another valley 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




MARKET ST 



,.5-' t 



CHESTNUT ST. 



RO 



I 



1- 

Location of 
PLACES of INTEREST 

inOLD PHILADELPHIA 



Grave of 
Deniaminfranklin 



I Franklin 
Institute 



Custom 
House 



Friends 
Meeting 
House 



Betsy Ross 
a House 



'Larpenters 
Hall 



rist 
urcti 



PRR 
Ferry 



PetRRy 
Ferry 



? f^ 



DIAGRAM FOR SIGHT-SEEING TOUR OUTLINED IN THIS CHAPTER 

The itinerary suggested is from City Hall east along Market St. to 5th St.; north on 5th to Arch; cast on Arch to 2nd; south < 
nut; west along Chestnut to 7th; north on 7th to Market; and west alonp Market St. back to City Hall 



3nd to Chest- 



The City of Penn and Franklin 

Notable Landmarks of the Otden Time Still Preserved in Philadelphia 



Within convenient distance of the start of this 
trip across Pennsylvania are several of the most 
historic buildings in the United States, a priceless 
inheritance from the colonial and revolutionary 
periods. They are grouped fairly close together 
in the old residence and business center, on or 
about Chestnut, Market and Arch streets, within 
a few squares of the Delaware river. Well-built, 
most fortunately preserved, and guarded with 
care, their substantial and dignified architecture 
is in complete harmony with the associations and 
traditions which cluster around them. 

As one steps across their thresholds into the 
presence of great events, time seems to have sud- 
denly reversed its flight; and the very atmosphere 
of the olden time is all but restored. The records, 
paintings and relics, gathered from far and wide 
for permanent display in some of these buildings, 
are beyond comparison with any other similar col- 
lections. Tourists will find that a half day, or 
even less if necessary, spent in visiting these 
landmarks, the locations of which are shown on 
the accompanying diagram, will prove a most in- 
teresting preliminary to the journey westward. 

The usual way to reach them from the Citv 
Hall, the principal route center, is east along 
Market St., a wide central thoroughfare, paved 
with wood blocks. On either side, for a consid- 
erable distance, are several large department 
stores, and many retail establishments. On the 
left, immediately below 12th St., the great Read- 
ing Terminal comes into view; and on the right, 
occupying the whole eastern part of the square 
between 10th and 9th Sts., is the Post Office. 
Continuing along Market St. to Sth St., and turn- 
ing left up Sth to Arch St., one comes along the 



west side of Christ Church burial ground, inclosed 
by heavy brick walls, with iron railings and gates. 

A Glimpse of Franklin's Grave 

In the coiner lot, close enough to the sidewalk 
to be seen through the grating, is the last resting 
place of Benjamin Franklin. Simplicity could 
scarcely be carried farther. A flat, gray, time- 
worn slab, raised considerably above the surface 
of the ground, is inscribed only "Benjamin and 
Deborah Franklin, 1790." Truly the visitor 
must look elsewhere for even a suggestion of the 
life and work of one whom 1 homas Jefferson said 
could be succeeded but not replaced. 

Turning right, around the corner, we start down 
Arch St., along the north side of the old burial 
ground, cross 4th St. and pass in front of the 
Friends' Arch St. Center, a conspicuous fea- 
ture of which is the Meeting House, erected in 
1804. This site has been an important settle- 
ment since the very early days. During the Rev- 
olution many of its members abandoned their 
peaceful inclinations to cast their lot with the 
colonials; and were long afterwards known as 
"Fighting Quakers." It is an attractive, well- 
maintained and extensive property, convincing 
the observing stranger that the Society of Friends 
is still a considerable factor in the life of Phila- 
delphia. 

On the left-hand side, just below 3d St., is a 
quaint, two-story and attic building, the lower 
part of which was kept as an upholsterer's shop 
before the Revolution by John Ross, who died in 
the early part of that war. According totradition, 
the young widow, Betsy Ross, was chosen by 
Washington to make the first United States flag, 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Pbolo by If. H'tsl R(in(/u// 

TOWEK OI- CITV HALL, PHILADELPHIA 

An attractive feature of the immense municipal structure; French 
Renaissance architecture. The statue of William Penn, at the top, 
faces Pelin Treaty Park, slightly north of east 

complftitl hire in 1777, and soon rhereafttr adup- 
tfil as the national ensign. This place, familiarlv 
known as the "lietsv Ross house," contains a 
numher ol inteiestin;; relics. 1 he painting hv J. 
L. (i. Ferris, "Putting the Stars on the first Flag," 
in Congress Hall. Philadelphia, is a tine conception 
of Betsy Ross showing Robert Morris and Major 
Ross how the stars were cut out in five points by 
one slash of the shears. 

Christ Church and Its Associations 

Less than a scjuare below the Betsy Ross house, 
a right turn is made on 2d St., to the front of 
Christ Church, on the right, aliout two-thirds of 
the way along that square. 1 his is one of the 
oldest, and perhaps the most famous, church now 
in regular use in the United States, a genuine old- 
time religious sanctuary, set in a background of 
most absorbing interest. Visitors are admitted 
daily, except Saturdays, between 9.00 .A. M. antl 
3.(K) P. M.; if the church should be closed during 
those hours, someone will be found at the Neigh- 
borhood House, across a footpath from the farther 
end of the small churchyard. Strangers are wel- 
come at all regular services: Sundays, 10.00 and 
11.00 A. M., and 3.30 P. M.; Holy Days, 11.30 
A. M., and weekdays, 12.05 noon, except during 
August. 

On the left-hand side of the main aisle, some- 
what back from the center, is the pew fretiuently 
occupied by Benjamin Franklin, whose slight ec- 



clesiastical connection was with Christ Church, 
though he was never a member of it. Also on the 
left of the center, but considerably farther up. is 
the wide, square pew, almost directly in front of 
the pulpit, occupied many times by Washington, 
and alterwards by John .Adams. Small bronze 
tablets give interesting details of each. There 
were many other notable worshippers in the olden 
days, some of jhem commemorated by beautiful 
windows, or tablets in marble or bronze. Several 
of the famous clergy of the church have been like- 
wise commemorated. 

Gen. John Forbes, whose expedition forms a 
considerable part of our narrative from the pres- 
ent Bedford to Pittsburgh, was buried in the 
chancel of this church, nearby John Penn, prt)b- 
ably in recognition of the immense service ren- 
dered by him to the mother country and its new- 
world colony. The large and pretentious memo- 
rial tablet on page 6, is in plain sight on the left 
as one faces the altar from the front rows of seats. 
It was dedicated November 27, 189S, approxi- 
mately 140 years after the evacuation of Fort 
DuQuesne, but more than 200 years after the 
founding of the church. That service was at- 
tended by many eminent churchmen, and the 
principal address was delivered by Right Rev. 
Cortlantit W hitehead, Bishop of Pittsburgh. One 
about to make the trip over the western half of 
the Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania, will find 
this memorial of particular interest. 

While Christ Church is, of course, outranked in 




Pioto ol stvtl eiinTaiin^ from uti jioTtratl by Bradjoid, Fb\ta. 

WILLIAM PENN IN ARMOR 

At 22, before he became a Quaker, and 16 years prior to his emi- 
uration to America. Ljiter, Prtiprietary of Pennsylvania and 
founder of Pliila(lelphi.i. Presented in 1833 by his grandson, 
Granville Penn. tc) the Historical Society of Pennsylvania; now 
in its gallery, 1300 Locust St. 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



sheer greatness by Independence Hall, no other 
institution in Philadelphia has so long and unin- 
terrupted history, or exhibits as many interesting 
angles. It was nearly 130 years old when the 
Franklin Institute was founded, and is beyond 
comparison for traditions and association. No- 
where else are its points of special interest to the 
visitor as well summarized as in the leaflet pre- 
pared bv the church itself, from which the follow- 
ing items are taken, condensed and slightly re- 
arranged: 

Christ Church was founded in 1695, under a 
provision in the original charter of King Charles 
II to William Penn through the influence of Bish- 
op Compton of London. It was chartered by the 
Penn family, whose pew was No. 60. John Penn, 
the last male member of this hne, is buried near 
the steps to the pulpit. The parish was subsid- 
ized by King William III (William of Orange). 
Here the colonial governors had their State pew, 
marked by the coat of arms bearing the mono- 
gram of William and Mary. 

The baptismal font dates from 1695, and is 
that used when Bishop White was baptized in 
infancy. Its ancient library, including many 
rare books brought over by Commissary Bray in 
1697, is not now on public exhibition. The com- 
munion silver was presented in 1708 by Queen 
Anne. The organ, built in 1765, has been rebuilt 
twice, except the front case and keyboard. 

Most of the details of the church are colonial. 
With the simplest materials — the brick and most 
of the materials brought from England — and fine 
skill, the colonial builders combined solidity 
and grace in a structure of unusual charm. As 




Pbolo by Rau, Pbitadelpbia 

CHRIST CHURCH. WEST SIDE OF 2nd St.. JUST NORTH 
OF MARKET ST., PHILADELPHIA 

An ecclesiastical and historical landmark; Renaissance style, with 
French and Dutch influences visible in the tower 




The Sulh poriiu:! (jf W( rranktin Institute 

BENJAMIN FRANKLIN 

"Venerated for benevolence, .idmired for talents, esteemed for 
patriotism, beloved lor philanthropy." — Wasbiuglon 



far back as 1749, the candelabra in the center 
aisle was placed there to supply candle light; and 
the pulpit dates from 1769. Most of the grave- 
stones and tablets belong to colonial or revolu- 
tionary days. 

Independence Hall was built by a committee of 
three, parishioners of Christ Church, and its arch- 
itect. Judge Andrew Hamilton, was a member ol 
its vestry. The Continental Congress attended 
here a service of fasting and prayer in 1775, short- 
ly after the battle of Lexington. 

The chime of bells pealed forth the Declaration 
of Independence in response to the Liberty Bell, 
July 4, 1776. They were taken from the city 
with the Liberty Bell by the Continental Con- 
gress at the British occupation of the city, when 
the American army went to Valley Forge, and 
were subsequently re-hung in the tower by Con- 
gress. These were referred to by Longfellow in 
the closing scene of "Evangeline": 

Distant and soft on her ear fell the chimes from the 
belfry of Christ Church 

Sanctuary of Famous Americans 

Many members of the convention which framed 
the Constitution in 1787, worshipped here during 
the sessions. George and Martha Washington 
frequently occupied pew 58 from 1790 to 1797. 
At the southeast of the nave is the "Washington 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Door," through which the first president was ac- 
custometl to enter. 

No. 58 was also the official pew of John .Adams 
while president, and was used by the Marquis de 
Lafayette on his second visit to this country in 
1824. Benjamin Franklin, a member of the com- 
mittee which built the spire, originally intended 
to try his electrical experiments with a kite from 
its top — then the highest point in the city. He 
occupied pew 70, subsequently used by members 
of his tamdy. Robert Morris, treasurer of the 
Revolution, who is buried in the churchyard, sat 
in pew 52. 

Francis Hopkinson, secretary of Continental 
Congress, and his son. Judge Joseph Hopkinson, 
author of "Hail Columbia," occupied pew 65. 
Betsy Ross, maker of the first American flag, held 
pew 12. (leneral Charles Lee, of the continental 
arm\', is interred beside the southwest door; and 
nearby in 1777, after the battle of Princeton, Gen- 
eral Hugh .Mercer was laid to rest. 

Rt. Rev. William White, D.D., first Bishop of 
Pennsylvania, and long presiding Bishop of the 
United States, the first in the American episco- 
pate derived from the Church of England, is in- 
terred before the chancel rail; and his episcopal 
chair stands besides the altar. General Cad- 
walader of the War of 1812, occupied the Cad- 
wahider family pew 55. Henry Clay, during his 
remjiorary attendance, sat in front ot the west 
column, north aisle. 




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adelpbia 



MEMOKIAl. lAlil 1 1 K) I1KU,-1.1 .\ JOHN 1 ORBES, 
CHANCEL OI- CHRIST CHURCH, PHILADELPHIA 

In 17^8, the iirmy under l-orlii-s compL-lled llu' French to abandon 
the "!-"orks of the Ohio," That expeiHlion determined the general 
course of highway travel througl) the present Bedford and Ligonicr 
to PittsburKh; from it, the name "Forbes Road,*' still frequently 
applied to tnat part of the route, derives its historic authority 



Photo by Rau, Pbiladelpbia 

CARPENTERS' HALL. PHILADELPHIA 

Meeting place of the first (^jntinent.-il ConRrcss, September 5, 
1774. winch led to the movement for independence. Set back a 
short distance from Chestnut St., between 3rd and 4th streets, 
and reached only by footpath 

In thechurchyaril are interred Peyton Randolph, 
first president of the Continental Congress; com- 
modores Truxton, Bainbridge, Biddle and Richard 
Dale; Eleanor, daughter of Nellie Curtis (Mrs. 
Lewis), daughter of Martha \\ ashington, several 
signers of the Dechiration of Independence, :ind 
other persons of distinction. 

.*\mong the clergy have been Bishops White, 
Welton. De L;ince\- and Kemper; Rev. Dr. \\ ill- 
iam Augustus .Muhlenberg (author of "1 WOuld 
Not Live Alway"); Rev. Dr. I homas Coombe, 
chaplain to King George III; Rev. Dr. Robert 
Hhickwell, chapbiin of the American army at Val- 
ley Forge, and the Rev. Dr. William Smith, first 
provost t)f the University of Pennsylvania. The 
Protestant Episcopal Church was org:inized, its 
constitution fr;imed, and the .Amentleil Prayer 
Book was adopted in this church in 17S5, when 
steps were taken to secure trom Enghind the Epis- 
copate for America. 

The Farthest Downtown 

Second street is as far east as the visitor need go 
to see the chief points of historic interest in the 
old Quaker City. Within a few sijuares, princi- 
p;ill\ on or nearby Market, Arch and Chestnut 
streets, and ;ilong the Delaware river, a short dis- 
tance farther east, was the small, compact Phila- 
delphia of Penn ;ind Franklin, long before im- 
proved means of transit allowed the city to spread 
north, south and west, and while the Schuylkill 
river was still a comparatively long way out. 

A run down to the Delaware riverfront will re- 
veal an interesting combination of old ;ind new in 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




BRONZE TABLET ON EROM OI- PENN NAIUlNAl 

BANK, SOUTHWEST CORNER MARKET AND 

CTH STREETS 

buildings. But there will be little ov nothing to 
recall the days when clipper ships cleared from 
here for all ports of the world, developing a com- 
merce which added greatly to the prosperity of 
the phice, and laid the foundations for several 
notable fortunes. Today the most conspicuous 
objects on the river are the ferry-boats of the 
Pennsylvania and P. &. R. railroads, carrying 
passengers and vehicles to and from Camden, N. 
J., with now and then an ocean liner, a big freight- 
er, or an excursion steamer in the view. 

Many of the boldest business enterprises of the 
olden days were earned on from the present far- 
downtown Philadelphia, whose merchants com- 
peted vigorously with those of Maryland and Vir- 
ginia for the trade of the growing West. Much 
credit is due them for the sentiment and active 
interest which gradually linked the Pennsylvania 
metropolis with the Ohio river and beyond by 
highway and railroad. Most of the old structures 
have been forsaken by their former tenants for the 
more modern buildings nearer the present busi- 
ness center; but many still continue proudly and 
successfully in their downtown locations. 

Leaving Christ Church to visit the remaining 
points of historic interest shown on the diagram, 
one continues south on Second St., across Mar- 
ket street, which, though the central thorough- 
fare, has now no important historic landmarks. 
In the early days of steam transportation, the 
eastern terminal of the Philadelphia & Columbia 
R.R. was at 5th and Market Sts., from which 
point travelers were taken to and across the 
Schuylkill in horse-drawn cars. On the west 
side of that river, locomotives were attached and 
the journey continued by steam to the Susque- 
hanna river at Columbia, where transfers were 
made to the Pennsylvania Canal for Harrisburg 
and the West. 



Landmarks of old Chestnut St. 

*One square south of Market St. a right turn 
is made, starting up Chestnut St., then ahead one 
square, crossing 3rd St. On the left-hand or 
south side of Chestnut St., between 3rd and 4th 
Sts., a footway leads a short distance back to 
Carpenters Hall, erected in 1724 by a society of 
carpenters and architects, a much larger building 
than its location would indicate. Here on Sep- 
tember 5, 1774, assembled the first Continental 
Congress, of which Washington, Patrick Henry 
and other famous men of that day were members. 
The discussions held and resolutions passed there 
led to the Declaration of Independence less than 
two years later, which fact has given to Carpen- 
ters Hall a very definite historic importance. 

On the same side of the street, one square west, 
is the U. S. Custom House, constructed of white 



* To arrange this sight-seeing trip through old Philadelphia in strict 
accordance with local traOic regulations would make it roundabout and 
inconvenient for the considerable number of visitors who leave their 
cars farther uptown and walk the short distances between the historic 
places. When traffic rules interfere with this itinerary, the motorist 
going about in his car had best keep in mind the specific locations, and 
plan to reach them by the most convenient available ways. As the 
average stranger will not be likely to master the street regulations in 
the course of a short downtown trip, it is considered unnecessary to de- 
fine them here. 




Photu by J<fnrun,i:\, Flnluddtibta 

THE "BETSY ROSS" HOUSE 

North side of Arch St., between 2nd and 3rd streets. Here 
the Stars and Stripes were designed by Betsy Ross, at the 
suggestion, or at least with the knowledge of Washington 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Copyrigblcd by J. I.. C /Vrrc; 

RAISING TilE F'LAG OVER INDEPENDENCE HAl I . IMlil A- 
DELPHIA 

Abraham Lincoln, President-elect, takinR tlic leadinp part at the cere- 
monies of February 22. 1861. From the celebrated paintinp by Mr. 
J. L. G. Ferris. Lmcoln's next appearance on a great occasion in renn- 
s^ylvania was on November 1*^, 18t>3, to deliver the "Gettysburg Ad- 
rcss" 



7 

dr 



marble, on the general lines of the Parthenon at 
Athens. When completed in 1824, at a cost of 
ahoiit 5^500,000, it was hy far the most pretentious 
building of the kind in the country. This was 
the home of the second United States Mank, a 
storm-center of finance and politics during the 
administration of Andrew Jackson, who withdrew 
all government deposits from it in 1S33. 

Just ahead, on the left-hand or south side of 
Chestnut St., extending the full width of the 
square from 5th to 6th St.. is the most notable row 
of historic structures in America. On the south- 
west corner (not shown on diagram) is the build- 
ing in which the Supreme Court of the United 
States first met; a tablet on the west side states 
that its sessions here were presided over b\' Chief 
Justices John Jay, John Rutledge and Oliver Klls- 
worth. It was constructed in 1791, in the hope 
and expectation that Philadelphia would be the 
permanent national capital. For many years 
after the removal of the Supreme Court to Wash- 
ington, it was the City Hall; it is now Pennsyl- 
vania G. A. R. headquarters. 

Indei'endknck Hall, Home ok the Liberty Bell 

The clima.x of interest i.": reached at Independ- 
ence Hall, a most dignified, roomy central buiUl- 
ing, with east and west wings, used principally tor 
the display of carefully selected and authentic 
relics of colonial and revolutionary times. No 
description seems ever to do it justice, probably 
because neither text nor pictures are able to 
conve\' the incomparable atmosphere of the place. 
Within its spell the romance and philosophy of 
Aiiurican history acquire broader and deeper 
meanings. For the present purpose, as for the 
usual brief visit, a few of the essential facts must 
suffice. 

io the left of the entrance is the Declaration 
Chamber, the most celebrated room in the west- 
ern world. Here the Continental Congress held 
its sessions from M;iy 10, 1775, to the close of the 
Revolution, except during the occupation of Phil- 
ailelphia b\- the British army in 1777-7S. In this 
room, on June 16, 1775, (Jeorge Washington ac- 
cepted the appointment of CJeneral and Comman- 
der-in-Chief of the American forces. 

Here on July 4, 1776, the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence was signed; and on June 14, 1777, the 
Continental Congress adopted the Stars and 
Stripes as the National ensign. On July 9, 1778, 
the Articles of Confederation were ratified; and 
on September 17, 1787, the Constitution of the 
United States was adopted. 

About opposite the main entr;mce, but toward 
the south side of the building, is the Liberty Bell, 
still h;inging from the original beam, the whole 
surrounded by a protecting frame and closely 
guarded. It was cast in Kngland in 1752 ;ind 
shipped to the Colony of Pennsyl\;ini:i in the 
f;ill of that Near for use as the State House bell. 
\\ bile being hung to try the sound, it was cracked 
by a stroke of the clapper, and was recast ;it the 
Philadelphia foundry of Pass & Stow in 1753. 
At noon, July 8, 1776, when the Declaration of 
Independence was publicly read in Independence 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Square (just south of the Hall), the bell literally 
proclaimed "liberty throughout the land." Dur- 
ing the occupation of Philadelphia by the British, 
it was removed to Allentown for safe-keeping; 
then brought back and replaced in the steeple 
until 1781, when it was lowered and rehung in the 
main building. 

It rang out the glad news of the surrender of 
Cornwallis in the autumn of 1781, proclaimed the 
treaty of peace in 1783, sounded the alarms of 
war in 1812, and led the celebration over renewed 
peace in 1815. It expressed the great sorrow of 
the new nation at the death of Washington in 
1799, welcomed Lafayette to Independence Hall 
upon his return to the United States in 1824, and 
in 1826 helped celebrate the 5()th anniversary of 
the Republic. 

It tolled for Thomas Jefferson and John Adams, 
for Charles Carroll, of Carrollton. last surviving 
signer of the Declaration, and for Lafayette. On 
July 8, 1835, the anniversary of the proclamation 
of independence, as the funeral cortege for Chief 
Justice Marshall was passing along Chestnut St., 
starting toward Richmond, the tolling parted one 



side of the bell; and it followed the great "ex- 
pounder of the Constitution" into silence. Since 
then, with the exception of a few notable trips, 
the last to the Panama-Pacific Exposition, San 
Francisco 1915, it has been on display here. 

A bronze plate set into the payement in front 
of about the center of the Hall, reads: 

Abraham Lincoln stood here when 
he raised the flag on independence 
Hall, February 22, 1861. 

The president-elect had recently come to Phil- 
adelphia through Cleveland, Buffalo, Albany and 
New York City, making a few important stops 
on the way to Washington for the first inaugura- 
tion. He was escorted to the platform and the 
flag cord placed in his hands. It was a thrilling 
sight to see the national ensign rise to the top of 
the staff, as he said later in describing the event, 
"floating gloriously to the wind in the bright 
glowing sunshine of the morning." 

Almost immediately after the ceremonies he 
left for the reception arranged to follow at the 
State Capitol, Harrisburg. Instead of continu- 





Pholo hy Rau, Pbiladelpbia 
INDEPENDENCE HALL, SOUTH SIDE OF CHESTNUT ST., BETWEEN 5th AND oth STREETS, PHILADELPHIA 



Begun in 172Q, and completed in 1734, .is State House for the Colony of Pennsylvania. "Cradle of the Republic." and ho 
Liberty bell. "Proclaim Liberty throughout the Land, and to all the People thereof." Most historic edifice in North 



home of the 

, . _ _^ _^. . . -- --- - --th America; 

English colonial style. The wings at either end of the main building are museums; beyond the farther wing is Congress Hall, meet- 
ing place of the first Continental Congress. 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Pboto by Jcnninns, Pbiladcljibia 
TM'ICAL VIEW OF MODERN DOWN lOVV N I'l 1 1 1 ADLM'l II A 



LodkinK west iilonp Chestnut St. from 0th St., four squares up from Independence Hall. On the ^i^^ht Is tht 
of the Post Olllee; ahead nearly solid rows of business structures reach Ijeyond South Broad St. 



outh end 



in^ the journey that night from HarrishiiiK 
through \'ork and Haltimore, as first planned, 
the president's special was brought back to Phil- 
adelphia, making connection with the regular 
night train, which arrived at Washington early 
the next morning. The celebrated painting by 
J. L. G. Ferris, commemorating that event, in 
Congress Hall, the next building on our itinerary, 
is worth looking up while this tablet and the sig- 
nificance of Independtnce Hall are fresh in niiiul. 

On July 4. lS7(i. Richard 1 lenry Lee, of N'irginia, 
grandson of the revolurionaiT patriot of the same 
name, read the Declaration from a platform over- 
looking Independence Square, in the presence 
of a distinguished company and a very large crowd. 
Ihis was the culminating feature in the anniver- 
sary celebrations of the most historic day in the 
Centennial program. \N'e may perhaps find 
special significance in the fact that a Virginian 
was chosen to read this document only about 
1532 vears after President Lincoln raised the Hag 
over Independence Hall, as the storm-clouds of 
the war between the States were gathering, and 
less than 11 '4 years after Appomattox. 

From the south side, either of the Hall itself or 
the museums in the wings, views of Independence 
Stiuare — known in colonial times as the "State 
House yard"- extend through to Walnut St. 
Its open spaces were sometimes a camping ground 
for Indian delegations visiting Philadelphia to 
discuss treaties, or on other business; and were 
also used, like Boston Conimon 111 the olden da\s. 



for public assemblies. In fact, the south side of 
the row of buildings from Mh to 6th St. was once 
at least as important as the north side, fronting 
on Chestnut St. 

A great crowd gathered there in April, 1775. 
upon receipt of momentous news from Lexington 
and Concord; and on July 8. 1776, the Declara- 
tion was first publicly read to thousands of eager 
listeners assembled in the same place. The 
King's arms were taken down from the court room 
and burned, while the feelings of the populace 
found exiiression in bonfires, discharges ot cannon, 
ringing of bells ;ind repeated shouts. "Independ- 
ence Hall." a later name, was derived from the 
events of 1776; and the same prefix was naturally 
given to the Scuiare. 

Congress Hall, the last of the Chestnut St. 
group of landmarks, occupies the southeast cor- 
ner ;it 6th St. Here the first House of Repre- 
sentatives and first Senate of the United States 
held their sessions. In this building. Washington 
\\;is inaugur;ited for his seconil term as president 
March 4. 1793; and here his official career closed 
with the inauguration of Adams and Jefferson in 
1797. Congress Hall is now principally an art 
gallery, owned by the City of Philadelphia; the 
paintings on display commemorate many impor- 
tant events in American history. 

Till-; Fra.nki.in Institute 

Continuing across 6th St. and ahead one sijuare, 
a right turn is made on 7th St., coming in front of 



10 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Franklin Institute, on the right-hand or east side 
of the street, about halfway to Market St. This 
institution was founded in 1824, and named in 
memory of Benjamin Franklin; the corner-stone 
of the present building was laid June 8, 1825. In- 
struction in, and development of the mechanical 
arts and sciences, popular lectures, experiments, 
and the dissemination of useful information, have 
been its principal aims. 

In addition, the Institute promoted a series of 
early e.xhibitors of great interest and variety, 
leading up, it has been said, to the Centennial of 
1S76. Among the objects worth particular ob- 
servation are the electric machine used by Frank- 
lin in his celebrated experiments, a small part of 
his printing press, and its stone "make-up" table, 
an odometer used by him, and also by Jefferson, 
to record distances traveled by carriage, the dress 
sword worn by Franklin at the Court of St. James, 
and models of telegraph and telephone instru- 
ments from their crude beginnings to the present 
time. 

The more closely the visitor examines the ex- 
hibits of this Institute, the more he realizes their 
exceptional value. Probably nowhere else is it 
possible to catch so much of the early scientific 
spirit, and trace, almost step by step, the progress 
of the United States in mechanics and the prac- 
tical sciences. 

The library and publications of the Institute 
are comprehensive and authoritative; and the 
visitor is impressed by the wise forethought of 
the founders of this great public benefaction, in 
planning st) much for future generations. Within 
a few years, a new and greater institution, made 
possible in part by the accumulated "Franklin 
Fund," will be erected along the parkway a short 
distance from the City Hall toward Fairmount 
Park. 

Proceeding along 7th to Market St., one may 
notice at the southwest corner the Penn National 
Bank, on the site of the house wherein Thomas 
Jefferson is said to have made the original draft 
of the Declaration of Independence, although 
historians differ on that point. The tablet pro- 
duced on page 7 may be seen on the north, or 
Market St. side of the building. In two or three 
minutes more the visitor has probably returned 
to the City Hall or vicinity. 

The Historical Society of Pennsylvania, 1300 
Locust St. (southwest corner Locust and 13th), 
a short distance outside the small zone of the 
itinerary just concluded, is well worth a visit if 
one desires to look up detail references for points 
of historical or general interest in the city or State. 
Its library is unusually complete, and the art gal- 
lery contains many original pictures of great 
value. 

Here may be seen the wampum belt given to 
William Penn by the Indians; Franklin's punch 
keg; the desk used by Washington when President 
of the United States in Philadelphia; sword pre- 
sented to John Paul Jones by Louis XVI of 



France; General Anthony Wayne's sword and 
camp kettle; Lincoln's office furniture and law 
books, and the autograph manuscript of the 
"Star-Spangled Banner," "Home Sweet Home," 
and "Hail Columbia." The facilities of this so- 
ciety are freely and courteously available to all; 
but the collections there (including many priceless 
manuscripts), are more suitable for reference in 
careful researches than for brief inspection by 
the casual visitor. 

* * * 

The thought and life of Philadelphians have 
unquestionably been influenced by the nearness 
of and constant association with their national 
landmarks. Fortunately both city and people, 
as a whole, realize the responsibility for their safe- 
keeping, as well as the obligation of making them 




Pbutu iiy Rau, Pbttadelpbia 

IRANKLIN INSTITUTE. EAST SIDE OF 7th ST.. BETWEEN 
CHESTNUT AND MARKET STREETS 

Very unusual example of old classic architecture, with square pilasters. 
A memorial to Benjamin Frankhn, to continue for all time, the dis- 
covery of natural laws, and their application to increase the well-being 
and comfort of mankind 



readily accessible to large numbers of visitors. 
"To the stranger. Peace and Welcome," credited 
to William Penn, is not an empty phrase in the 
Quaker City even today. 

Here one meets a conscious effort to preserve 
the fast-slipping habit of reminiscence, and to 
cherish the visible connections between the pres- 
ent and the past. It is doubtful if any other city 
in the United States would have kept so many 
places of national importance with such care from 
colonial and revolutionary times to this day. The 
influences inherited from Penn may have been 
largely outgrown; but Philadelphia still lives 
more or less openly and proudly in the spirit and 
with the practical philosophy of Franklin. 



11 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 

Chapter I— A (icneral Introductory Surrey 



The route from Phil;iclclpliia through Lancas- 
ter. Cohimbia, \'ork, Cjcttysburg, Chambersburf;, 
Bedford, Ligonicr and Greensburg to Pittsburgh, 
is primarily an evolution from two old and his- 
toric units now merged into its eastern and west- 
ern sections. More than 185 years have elapsed 
since the first small fractions retained in the pres- 
ent through line were laid out and made passable 
for wagons carrying produce to market, in ad- 
vance of any attempt to provide facilities for pas- 
senger transportation. The extensions, gradual 
completion and various uses made of this road, 
form a subject of exceptional interest, especially 
when traversed from east to west, the direction 
of its development. 

With a fair general knowledge of Pennsylvania 
history, as related to this route, and a few dates 
by which to identify important events, the usual 
limited time allotted for a tour of only 300 miles 
will enable one to discover, and perhaps turn to 
practical account, more than may at first seem 
possible. This process is facilitated by the un- 
folding of the subject, in progressive steps, with 
favorable opportunities tor observation of locali- 
ties and landmarks, the personal contact adding 
to, or even multiplying, the benefits ordinarily 
derived from the same amount of study at longer 
range. 

HisTORicAi, Foundations of the Route 

Between about 1733 and 1740, Philadelphia 
and Lancaster were connected by the old Provin- 
cial road, or "King's Highway," the root and nu- 
cleus of the later through line across the Alleghany 
mountains to the Ohio river at I'ittsburgh. .Al- 
though this section was built primarily to facili- 
tate local communication, and help settle the 
country through which it passed, the fact that it 
was the first, and a fairly direct, westward route, 
made it the logical base for development, an ad- 
vantage retained to this day. 



The enterprising early settlers of what is now 
principally Lancaster County opened two impor- 
tant lines of communication to the Susciuehanna 
even before they had secured a through connec- 
tion to Philadelphia. Branching westward from 
Lancaster like the two sides of an acute angle, the 
shorter one of these lines extended to the present 
site of Columbia, and the longer one to opposite 
where Harrisburg now stands. The former — 
crossing the wide river by Wright's ferry — became 
part of an important short link to York, the Po- 
tomac river and the Suscjuehanna valley, while 
the latter crossing at Harris's ferry, about 25 
air-line miles northwest — was the natural and 
easiest route to the head of the Cumberland valley 
(the section about Carlisle), Juniata river points 
and west. 

It may be difiiciilt at first for the modern tour- 
ist to realize that the present section of the direct 
way from York through Gettysburg, Chambers- 
burg and .McConnellsburg into the mountains, 
was not laid out until after travel had become 
|iermanentlv established on the southwesterly 
line through ^ ork, and had made considerable 
use of the northwesterly route through the pres- 
ent Harrisburg. (Jeneral John I'orbes, in con- 
ducting his expedition of 175S against Fort Du- 
Quesne. used the old Provincial Road to Lancas- 
ter; and followed from that point the northwest- 
erly extension to the Suscjuehanna. Crossing 
the river at Harris's ferry, he continued along the 
natural path of the Cumberland vallcv, gradually 
trending southwest; thus he penetrated to about 
the center of the present State, by the lines of 
least resistance at that time, before striking over- 
land a comparatively short distance to his desti- 
nation. 

Turning out of the Cumberland valley at Ship- 
pensburg, POrbes used various fragments of road 
to surmount the eastern ranges of the Alleghanies 
to where Bedford now stands. From there (for 



Profile of fhe Pil-tsburgh- 




(Compare "Condensed Topography" maps, pages 16-17) 



Continued on opposite page 



DIAGRAM SliOWlNC; WIDE RANGE OF- TOPOGRAPH^' BETWEEN PHILADELPHIA AND PITTSBURGH— The irregular 

mountain ranges. I'igurcs in end margins give varying elevations above 

12 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 









„• ^^^W^. 




ll^^ 






Hk 



Pboto by L. A. Sampson, Berwyn 

FLOCK OF LAMBS ON A FARM IN CHESTER CO., PA. 

Comfortnbic but usually unpretentious farmliouses. spaciuus, well-kept barns, fine old trees and fertile (ands, mueh of it 
in pasturage, lend picturesque variety to this trip across the Keystone State 



convenient reference but in reahty from some- 
what farther west), the old military highway, or 
"Forbes Road," was cut with urgent haste, in the 
tall of 1758, through the forests covering the main 
Alleghany plateau and the lower ranges on the 
western slope, to the "F"orks of the Ohio," now 
the site of Pittsburgh, primarily to take Fort Du- 
Quesne from the French. What now constitutes 
approximately the western quarter of the road 
from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh was afterwards 
constructed on the general alignment, but only 
in spots in the actual track, of the route traveled 
by Forbes. 

In the course of tune, York, Gettysburg, Cham- 
bersburg, McConnellsburg and Bedford were 
connected into a short line across the center of 
the State, receiving much additional travel from" 
Baltimore to Pittsburgh, entering it from the 
southeast between Fort Loudon village and Mc- 
connellsburg. Gettysburg, once a small village 
on the old frontier, noted for the many roads lead- 
ing into and out of it, has become the greatest 
single point of interest on the direct, newer link. 

Option through Harrisburg 
The slightly longer but excellent and very in- 



teresting route from Philadelphia and Lancaster 
through Harrisburg and Carlisle to Chambers- 
burg, still remains, affording an opportunity to 
visit the State Capital, and to see about 51 miles 
of the fertile and historic Cumberland valley. 
By running around to the north of South Moun- 
tain (crossed by the short line through the Cash- 
town gap), the moderate grades in the semi-high- 
land country midway between Philadelphia and 
Lancaster are still the highest elevations all the 
way to Chambersburg. Round trips may be 
planned with advantage one way through Get- 
tysburg, and the other way through Harrisburg. 
Each integral part of the through highway, in- 
cluding the two options from Lancaster to Cham- 
bersburg, served the increasing needs of its own 
section of the colony or State for many years: and 
the whole made one of the greatest thoroughfares 
in America for freight-wagons and stage-coaches 
until their traffic was shifted to the railways. Al- 
ways an important avenue of national expansion, 
it was for a long time the only direct means of 
transport or communication across the interven- 
ing country, and proved almost indispensable to 
the great overland movement which opened up 
and settled the central and far west. 



Philadelphia route 




Continued jr am opposite page 

saw-tooth aspect is due both to the extreme condensing- of distances, cast and west, and to differences m the bulk and shape of the 
tidewater. Relative grades are indicated by the intermediate inclines 

13 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Within the past few years, tlu- old units, with 
some loss of their former individuality, but to the 
great advantage of the midtiplied through travel, 
have become parts of the only highwav reaching 
from Atlantic tidewater to the Ohio river across a 
single state. Following generally the Indian 
trails and their first successor, the route of explor- 
ation and early trading path from the Delaware 
and Susquehanna rivers to the nearest point on 
the Ohio, it uses the (Id alignments without ma- 
terial change from Philadelphia into the Allegha- 
nies, though considerable deviations have been 
made on the western slope. Maps of different 
parrs of the road made at intervals during the 
past hundred years, brought to the same scale and 
pieced together, would be a hiirly accurate and 
serviceable guide for its essential features today. 

"Kky" Route to the West 

East-and-west transportation across the Key- 
stone State has been accomplished only through 
the solution of many ditticLilt problems by the 
builders of roads, canals and railways. None of 
the rivers between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh 
offered even as much assistance as the winding 
Potomac through parts of Maryland. I he larger 
streams, with their principal tributaries, follow 
diagonal north-and-south courses, and belong to 
two different watersheds, separated by mountain 
barriers. More abundant water supply on the 
eastern half, comparatively near the centers ot 
early population, led to designs to use them part- 
way across before the obstacles on the western 
half were fulK' measured. 

William Peiin, actuated by motives like those 
which at a later day led George Washington to 
plan and urge the improvement of Potomac nav- 
igation to the mountains, and the construction of 
a canal or highway through to the Ohio river, con- 
templated opening up transportation from Phil- 
adelphia through the Schu\lkill river to Reading, 
and thence across to the Sus(]uehanna, just be- 



Nond w hich began the still almost unknown "west- 
ern country." Penn is said to have once visited 
the Indian village of Conesfoga in southern Lan- 
caster County; but he knew very little of the 
trans-.'Xlleghany region with which Washington 
became well acciuainted during the military cam- 
paigns of 1754-55-.^8, and through the extensive 
travels of his earlier and later life. Both passed 
their ideas along to generations which accom- 
plished the purposes they had in view, and devel- 
oped other routes and means of travel and com- 
merce far beyond the expectations of their day. 

Across Pennsylvania, as through \'irginia and 
Marvland, the construction and equipment of 
waterways for extensive use would require a long 
period of time, heavy expense and large co-oper- 
ative effort. But highways could be built part at 
a time, and used as completed, w hich better suited 
the means and necessities of colonial times. (Jrad- 
ually the path or pack-horse trail was widened 
and made passable for vehicles, greatly stimu- 
lating travel and commerce over the route, which 
became in a special sense the "key" to the West. 

In his message of 1790, Thomas Mifflin, first 
governor of Pennsylvania, advocated an exten- 
sive system of internal improvements to connect 
"the extreme members of the Union," then lit- 
terally true, as Kentucky was not admitted until 
1792, and Ohio in 1802. The program adopted 
led to the building of an extensive system of canals 
which, in connection with the Alleghany Portage 
R.R., one of the curious features of early rail 
transportation in America, provided the first com- 
plete passenger and freight traffic, except over the 
iiighwavs, between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. 
As that development was princijially on the more 
northerly one of the three old-time routes across 
Pennsvlvania, it will be covered more fully in a 
later work on the William Penn Highway. 

Capitals of the Revolutionary Period 
From March 4, 1777, to June 21, 1783, the cap- 




OLD riME \ IF.W orsiX-IIORSETEAM AND CONESTOGA WAGON 



uiLui'.s LulUuwn 



This tvpi- of vrhiclf. oriKinatccl and built in large nunibt'rs in the Coni'stoRa section of Lancaster Co., aK^nR or nearby the 
route from Philadelphia to the Susquehanna River, was the principal means of transportation across the Bfue Ridge and Alle- 
gheuies during a long perioti of National expansion 

14 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Pholo hy F. E. MiCreary. Bcdjard 

THE FAMOUS "JUNIATA CROSSINGS," EAST OF EVERETT, PA. 

Here the Raystown branch of the Juniata River is crossed by the longest covered bridge now rcniaininp on the western 
part of this route; a typical view of the wild and picturesque scenery along the rivers in the interior of the State. 
Bridges like this have already become rare, and will gradually disappear, at least from the main-traveled lines 



ital of the United States was on this route, the 
varying fortunes of the Revolution forcing the 
Continental Congress to shift its sessions from 
Philadelphia, first to Lancaster, and then to York, 
from whence it returned to Phdadelphia after the 
British evacuated that city. Both Lancaster and 
Columbia were once considered possible sites for 
the permanent national capital. I hough the col- 
ony was founded by Quakers, and the influence of 
that sect continues a factor to this day through 
the Commonwealth, more fighting has taken place 
on the soil of Pennsylvania than in any other 
State. 

Even the tourist making a quick through trip is 
conscious of being in some personal contact with 
momentous events in American history. Facts 
become more real and definite in the localities 
where they occurred; characters heretofore known 
only in text-books or encyclopedias step out into 
the light and shadow. 

It requires little imagination to almost hear the 
distant tramp of armies in the old French War, or 



echoes of Valley Forge, Paoli and the Brandy- 
wine from revolutionary days. The great events 
at Gettysburg seem to have been brought nearer, 
instead of passing always into the farther back- 
ground. 

Within the memory of living men, this was one 
of the principal stage routes of the eastern coun- 
try; today a form of travel unknown until com- 
paratiyely recent years is the ordinary transpor- 
tation over it. Most of the inland villages, and 
even the formerly almost isolated mountain ham- 
lets, now receive their mail by motor stage, in 
some cases the only regular passenger service of 
the locality, and the principal means of contact 
with the outside world. The telephone, rural 
free delivery and the automobile have revolu- 
tionized the life of whole sections; and one is easily 
convinced that crude means of local transporta- 
tion during the past two or three generations 
have been largely responsible for the loss of their 
younger element to the cities. 

The literature of this old thoroughfare is sur- 




Pbnlo from \V. H Breilhaupt 

THIS WAGON, NOW PRESERVED IN 
THE MUSEUM OF THE WATERLOO 
HISTORICAL society; KITCHENER, 
ONT., MADE THE OVERLAND TRIP IN 
1807 FROM lANCASTER CO., PA., TO 
ONTARIO, CANADA 



Well-preserved specimen of original 
type. Pennsylvania farm wagon, 
which furnished transportation for 
Braddock (1755) and Forbes (1758) 
campaigns, and was the principal 
vehicle of the early "westward 
movement." The covered top 
(prairie schooner type) was a later 
development. 



1.S 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



prisingly meagre and frapimentary, havinp: neither 
kept pace with its physical progress nor done 
justice to its past or present importance. An in- 
creasing niiinher of motor tourists are seeking 
more than the severely condensed through line ot 
the general map or the technical rimning direc- 
tions of the road hook. The present work aims 
to furnish the very little inlormation necessary 
for traveling the route, with such historical and 
local references as may easily he used in the course 
of a leisurely tour. 

W'lDi; Range ok Topography 

From about 40 feet above sea-level at the Phil- 
adelphia City Hall, the route to Gettysburg and 
Pittsburgh leads almost at once into a rolling su- 
burlian district, with almost unperceptible but 
gradually increasing elevation for nearly 25 miles. 
Then it makes a considerable descent into the 
Chester valley, across which the east and west 
branches of Brandywine creek flow to the south- 



.\lountaln at an elevation of 1,.334 feet. The de- 
scent of its •western flope into the Cumberland 
valley is also jnoderate, for at Chambersburg 
there has been a net rise of only 67 feet in the 25 
miles from Gettysburg. (3ne of the most level 
stretches for the distance along the entire route is 
between Chambersburg. on Conococheague creek 
and Fort Loudon, on the west branch of that creek, 
the rise being only 21 feet in the 14 miles. 

At Fort Loudon, the topographic situation un- 
dergoes an almost complete change. Just west of 
that village the route begins a long, steep ascent 
of Cove mountain, a part of the Tuscarora range, 
and the first of the principal AUehgany summits, 
crossed at an elevation of 2, KM) fitt. While 
there are 3 slightly higher points beyond, this al- 
most abrupt rise from the floor of the Cumber- 
land valley, a relatively short distance, makes it 
one of the most formidable grades along the route. 
Once over the crest, there is a corresponding but 
shorter descent to McConnellsburg; thtn Little 




east. Just west of Coatesville it makes a short, 
almost abrupt ascent out of that valley, reaching 
within the next 6 miles an elevation of 843 feet, 
the highest point in the line east of the pass 
through South Mountain between Gettysburg 
and Chambersburg. 

The climb beyond Coatesville also lifts the 
route over the eastern rim of the Sus(iuehanna 
valley into an extensive area of tablelands, whose 
general trend for the next 35 miles is toward the 
west. So wide is this valley that the motorist 
scarcely recognizes it as such until the great broad 
river is reached at Columbia. 1 he upgrade on 
the western side of the Susquehanna is equally 
gradual, rising from 227 feet at Columbia to 368 
at York and 553 at Gettysburg. So far there are 
no indications of the greater elevations soon to be 
encountered. 

A series of moderate grades a few miles west of 
Gettysburg lead up to the pass through South 



Continued on opposile page 
CONDENSF.D TOPOGUAl'l n, WESTERN SECTION OF 

Scrub and Scrub ridges, two minor ranges, are 
crossed to the next approximately level stretch at 
about the same elevation as McConnellsburg. 

Then begins an equally steep but somewhat 
shorter ascent of the eastern slope of Sideling 
Hill, whose summit rises 95 feet above the crest of 
Cove mountain. A very short, steep descent on 
its western slope is followed almost at once by a 
comparatively moderate ascent ot Ray's Hill, and 
then by a longer descent of the western slope ol 
that hill down into the valley of the Raystown 
branch of the Juniata river. This provides a 
rather long, nearly level section from the western 
foot of Ray's Hill through Everett to a short dis- 
tance beyond Bedford. Then the route climbs 
out of that valley, and after touching an interme- 
diate elevation of 1,522 feet, drops back easily to 
1,259 feet at Schellsburg in the Quaker valley, the 
last drained hv eastward-flowing streams. 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Across the main Alleghany Range 

Just beyond Schellsburg begins the long but 
fairly gradual ascent of the main ridge of the Al- 
leghanies, crossed at an elevation of 2,908 feet. 
Though bulking much larger and rising slightly 
higher than either Cove mountain or Sideling 
hill, its slopes are more moderate than either of 
them; and the actual top is more like an easy 
grade in both directions than a conventional sum- 
mit. Ihe first descent on the western side is even 
more gradual and shorter, followed by an approx- 
imate level stretch, for a mountainous country, 
to the east foot of Laurel ridge, or "Laurel Hill." 

The ascent of this range from the east is short 
but comparatively steep, accounting for the al- 
most perpendicular line on the profile map just 
west of Jennertown. It reaches an elevation of 
2,684 feet, and is the last formidable elevation on 
the route. I he western slope, longer and almost 
as steep as the eastern face, leads down into the 



principal difference is that in these States the 
mountains are in a series of ranges, which must 
be crossed at considerable heights by east-and- 
west travel, while the main routes of the Adiron- 
dack, Catskill and White mountain districts usu- 
ally go around the extreme elevations. 

Driving the Mountain Roads 

The longest and steepest grades can be made 
by any car in good conditicn; and the first-time 
visitor, even though accustomed to driving only 
in level country, need anticipate no difficulty on 
the trip. Brakes should be fairly tight, and the 
brakeband linings in shape for positive action — 
the newer and less used the better. However, a 
too frequent or too constant application of brakes 
on the longer descents will soon wear out ordinary 
linmgs, and often render them useless before 
reaching the next level 

The principal dependence should be upon the 
engine, and the brakes reserved mostly for emer- 



». 




to 









Chambersburg 




Continued jrom opposite pagt: 
THE LINCOLN HICHWA\ IN PENNSYLVANIA 



Ligonier valley, beyond which Chestnut ridge is 
crossed by a comparatively low pass cut through^ 
by Loyalhanna creek. ' 

/ From that point to Greensburg and Pittsburgh i 
/the route traverses a region of scenic highlands. 
Whose steepest grade is from just west of East 
MtKeesport down to Turtle creek station, too 
short to be shown on the condensed profile map. 
The elevation of the Ohio river at Pittsburgh is 
640 feet, or 600 feet above Philadelphia City Hall. 
Formidable as these mountain ranges may ap- 
pear on the map and in traveling the route, they 
do not reach as high elevations as often supposed; 
and are much lower than the Adirondacks and 
Catskills of New York State or the White moun- 
tains of New Hampshire. The Appalachian 
system descends to considerably less than the av- 
erage heights in its wide course across Pennsylva- 
nia and Maryland; but rises to greater elevations 
in the Backbone range of West Virginia. The 



gencies. By shifting to low gear and shutting off 
the spark, the compression of the engine will do 
the work m the most efFective and reliable way. 
Less force is required to hold back the weight of 
the car and its load on the downgrades than would 
be exerted to ascend the same grades. Moderate 
application of the footbrake will help retard mo- 
mentum, particularly on rough stretches. 

While all the mountains on this route are fre- 
quently taken on high gear, they are more usually 
climbed on second, which has a tendency to heat 
the engine. To counteract this it is advisable, 
after running over the crest, to cut off the spark 
and cool the engine by making the descent in 
gear. The radiator may be filled with cold water 
at the start, and replenished en route if conven- 
ient; but this IS no longer necessary. 

Care should be taken to keep out of the way of 
vehicles coming from the opposite direction, es- 
pecially heavy cars ascending a steep winding 



17 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




'■Ji. /Jtrui n. Pa. 



GENERAL, WA^■Nli MONUMENT. VAl.LEV FORGE. PA. 



The birthplace, home rind griivi- of Gen, Anthony Wayne nrc near this route, a few miies west o( Philadelphia. Several times east of Down- 
in^town. the traveler crosses the roads or paths followed during the Revolutionary cami>aign by Continental forces under the command of 
this distinguished olhcer and patriot. The monument has a conspicuous location along the Park Drive, a part of the side-trip from 
Devon to Valley Forge and return, made by many tourists using this through route 



grade under full power. No attempt should be 
made to pass anyone going in the same direction 
except on a reasonably wide stretch of road and 
with a clear view ahead. Stops should never be 
made on the curves without pulling to one side of 
the roadway, if possible entirely off the right of 
way. 

In case of emergency stops where the view may 
be at all obscured, it is a wise precaution to sta- 
tion some member of the party in a position to 
warn approaching cars. Stones brought to block 
the wheels should always be removed from the 
roadway; leaving them where used may endanger 
another car, especially on winding grades. 

l)l;l,AWARK RiVKR TO TH K OhIO RlVKR 

This old high\\a\- traverses a series of rolling 
highlands and mountain ranges, interlaced nearly 
throughout by several of the most picturesijue, 
interesting and important rivers and subordinate 
streams of the eastern United States. In their 
order from east to west these waterways are: 

The Delaware river, forming most of the east- 
ern boundary of Pennsylvania, whose slowly mov- 
ing waters are within five minutes" ride of the 
start of the trip; the Schuylkill river, the earliest 
improved water route in the State, east and west 
branches of Hrandywine creek, Conestoga creek. 
Sustjuehanna river, largest in Pennsj-lvania and 
much the widest on the route, east and west 
branches of Conococheague creek, and the Rays- 
town branch of the Juniata river, all flowing east 
and southeast, finally reaching the Atlantic; and 



Stony creek, Loyalhanna creek. Turtle creek and 
the Ohio river, uhose historic "forks" mark the 
end of the route, all flowing north or west, finallv 
reaching the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexict). 
For a considerable part of the distance between 
Irwin and Pittsburgh the route is in the Monon- 
gahela country, but without ((uite touching that 
busy, historic river at any point. 

To identify the various streams as they are 
crossed, to recognize the characteristic topogra- 
phy of the most important of them, and to catch 
even from the moving car a fresh understanding 
of their large part in the histt)rical and physical 
development of the interior, will add a new and 
vital interest to this trip. The rivers and creeks 
briefly summarized here, partly by vvay of sug- 
gestion that the tourist note and follow this very 
interesting feature of the route, are left for more 
adetiiiate reference in succeeding chapters. 

SoMK InTKRE.STING SlWK-TRIPS 

Tourists with time and inclination for one or 
more deviations from the main road will find 
plenty of opportunities, summarized here in their 
order from east to west. Even if none of these 
side-trips can be taken at the time, a slight ac- 
quaintance with them widens the horizon of the 
tour as a whole, and adds greativ to its general 
interest. 

The first, shortest and perhaps the most inter- 
esting one is north, usually from Devon, but often 
conveniently from other nearby points, to \ alley 
Forge, before leaving the Philadelphia suburban 



18 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



district. A side-trip to Ephrata, the historic and 
picturesque home of the Seventh Day Baptists, 
may be started northwest from Downingtown, 
coming back either at Lancaster, or through 
Lititz and Manheim (the place of the annual 
"feast of roses"), to Mount Joy, on the Lancaster- 
Harrisburg option. Ephrata can, however, be 
reached more conveniently by a short northward 
detour from Lancaster; and connected back, if 
desired, by a slightly longer circuit through Lititz 
and Manheim. 

One using the Harrisburg option, already re- 
ferred to, makes connection at the capital city with 
the William Penn Highway, leading through the 
Lewistown Narrows of the Juniata river to Hunt- 
ingdon, Altoona, Johnstown and the central- 
northern route to Pittsburgh. 

At Chambersburg the main route is crossed b\ 
the important line of travel from Harrisburg to 
Greencastle, thence either to Hagerstown, the 
Antietam battlefield and the longer way to the 
Shenandoah valley; or to Williamsport, Mary- 
land, and the short-cut through Martinsburg, 
W.Va., to Winchester, Va. Either of these side- 
trips will take the tourist into some of the most 
picturesque and interesting sections of the Poto- 
mac river country; also to or across the National 
Road leading from Baltimore or Washington 
through Frederick and Hagerstown to or beyond 
Cumberland. From Greensburg an important 
highway leads nearly direct south through Mount 
Pleasant and Connellsville to Uniontown, tor 
points east or west on the National Road. 

At Irwin, an interesting side-trip is offered a 
short distance north to the Bushy Run battle- 
field now being rescued from comparative obliv- 
ion, suitably marked, and made accessible to in- 
creasing numbers of tourists. From East Pitts- 
burgh, those who specially desire to pass over, oi' 




••\ ANOR" (FACING SOUTH), RADNOR, PA. 

One of the old mansions of the main-!ine suburban district; original 
house built 1707, enlarged, 1840 and 1886. The property on which 
this is situated borders the Lincoln Highway for a considerable distance 
near Radnor station 

at least nearby, the site of Braddock's Field may 
do so, with practically no additional mileage, 
into Pittsburgh. This last option gives one an 
idea of the industrial establishments along the 
Monongahela river tor the last few miles before 
its identity, with that of the Allegheny, is lost in 
the Ohio. 

At Pittsburgh connection is made with the trunk 
lines traversing western Pennsylvania, adjacent 
sections of eastern Ohio and northern West Vir- 
ginia. These provide a number of routes farther 
west, and open up a wide choice of return trips, 
particularly into western New York, either by 
Lake Erie or along the Allegheny river and through 




photo by L. A Sampson, Berwyn, Pa. 



THE FORMER LAMB TAVERN. DEVON. PA. 



More well-preserved old inns or wagon-stands wiltbe found along the route between Philadelphia and Lancaster than on any other highway 
of^ equal length in the United States. This one is' at the top of Devon Hill, a short distance east of the 15th milestone; like the majority 
now standing, it has been for many years a private residence 

19 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Pbjio by L. A. Sampson, Beruyn 

"SKNTINEL TREE," STRAFFORD, PA. 

JusI (iff the L.incoln Hinliway, on iht- road leadinp to StralTord Station, 
I* R. R,; said to havi- bcrn used by Washington's sentinels during the 
eneanipnient at VaMev Forge to give notiee of approach by the enemy. 
Dead and shattered, but still standing and retoKnizable 

Jamestown. l'ittslnii}ili also has two important 
connections to the National Road, one along the 
general course of the Monongahela river to 
Brownsville or Uniontown, and the other nearly 
direct southwest to W'ashmgton, Pa. From any 
one of these three pomts, that highway makes an 
excellent return trip through Uniontown, Cum- 
berland, 1 liigerstown and a wide choice of options 
farther east. 

Educational Institutions En Route 

It is doubtful if any other road of equal length 
in the United States passes by or near as man\ 
notable institutions of learning, an indication of 
how liberally educational facilities have been 
founded and sustained along this thoroughfare to 
the central West. Some ot these are among the 
oldest in the country, while others have been es- 
tablished within comparatively recent years. 

The University of l*ennsylvania, Girard Col- 
lege and the Franklin Institute, although a triHe 
off the exit from I'hiladelphia, are easily accessi- 
ble even to the stranger making a quick through 
trip. Haverford, IJryn .\I;iwr, \ ilia Nova and 
Villa Mariii are immediately on the route through 
the suburban tlistrict ot the (juaker Citv; Swarth- 
more is distant only a few miles. Franklin antl 
Marshall College is at Lancaster; Pennsylvania 
College and Ciettysburg Theological Seminary 
at Ciettysburg. The Harrisburg-Carlisle option 
between Lancaster and Chambersburg would add 
Dickinson College at Carlisle. Wilson College 



for women is at Chambersburg; and St. Xavier 
.Academy along the highway a short distance east 
of (ireensburg. 

W itbin comparatively recent years. Pittsburgh 
has become an important educational center, par- 
ticularly in the technical and industrial sciences. 
.A short distance off the main route entering that 
city from the east are the great Carnegie founda- 
tions, among the most notable and best-equipped 
in the world; these will be noted in more detail 
and illustrated in the final chapter. Nearby are 
the several buildings of the University of Pitts- 
burgh, (iraded and higher schools are conspicu- 
ous in nearly all the cities and towns through 
which the route passes. 

Salient Historic Features 

This great "Pennsylvania Road" and its chief 
rival, the National Pike, were to a large extent the 
result of increasing knowledge of and interest in 
the trans-Alleghany region, which began about 
1750, and despite temporary interruptions or re- 
verses, made remarkable progress for a century. 
In 175S. next to the last year of the old French 
War, Forbes' expedition eniled that war in the 
Ohio valley. Ihe defeat of the Indians in 1763 
at the battle of Bushy Run. the most easterly en 
gagement of Pontiac's W^ar, led to a treaty of 
peace between them and Sir William Johnson. 
Indian commissioner for the British government 
in North America, and practically clearetl what 
was then the western frontier. 

While the principal military engagements of 
the Revolution in Pennsylvania took place in the 
eastern half of the State, this road was even then 
an important avenue of communication and 
transport to and from the growing western settle- 




Pholo hy liev. AlJirn \\ . Qutmhy, Beruyn 
THE "TARl ETON HOUSE" 
A RevolutifM^ary landmnrk, on ground adjoining Signal Hill, Berwyn 



20 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



ments. Over it passed mcist of the reinforce- 
ments, amniLinition and supplies sent from time 
to time during that period to the forts and military 
posts beyond the Ohio river. In 1812, consider- 
able numbers of troops marched from eastern and 
central Pennsylvania along this route to Pitts- 
burgh, thence up to Erie, Pa., and the Niagar.i 
frontier. 

Emigration and travel were greatly stimulated 
by the achievement of independence, the inaugu- 
ration ( f constitutional government, and partic- 
ularly by the Ordinance of 1787, which forever 
prohibited slavery, laid a broad foundation tor 
popular education, and assured persona! and re- 
ligious freedom in all the territory northwest ot 
the Ohio. By that time there was a con.'^iderabK 
freight wagon movement across the Alleghanies 
and gradually regular lines of stage-coaches were 
put into service. Both kinds of traffic steadilx 
increased in volume, reaching their height on 
both this route and the National Road from 1810 
to 1840; and continued until the Baltimore & 
Ohio and Pennsylvania railroads took over the 
freight and passenger business. 

Unlike the National Pike through Maryland 
and southwestern Pennsylvania, the Philadelphia- 
Pittsburgh road never had any Federal assistance 
in construction or maintenance. Though the 
western end had originally been cut through tor 
military purposes, it was always dependent en- 
tirely upon private or local enterprise until the 
State took it over. For many years its visible 
ownership was divided among a number of toll 
companies, and the frequent stops to pay toll 
were a troublesome expense. 




LIBRARy CLOISTER, BRYN MAWR COLLEGE 

These extend along three sides of the inner court oi the Library, over- 
looking the cloister garden and fountain 

Toll system abolished 

On the eastern division, the system was strong- 
ly entrenched, commercially and politically, for 
many years; but toll is now altogether eliminated 
from this route. Some of the former toll-houses 
remain as picturesque relics of the past; but the 
majority of them have been removed or their 
identity lost in changes to other uses. The only 
toll bridge now used in crossing the State this way 
is the one over the Susquehanna at Columbia. 

1 he old taverns are still numerous between 




Photo hy L. A. Sampson, Biriiyn 

FOUNDERS' HALL. HAVERFORD COLLEGE 

Oldest building now in use: opened f.^!! 1831, as Haverford School. Colonial type of building, the lelt end resembling a well- 
built Pennsylvania dwelling of that period. The octagonal bell tower and small square window panes are interesting features 



21 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




l*holo by L. A Sampson, Btruyn 



I ORMER TOl L-HOUSE AT ST. 
DAVIDS. PA. 

One of the bfUcr type, with attempt at 
ornamentation, evidenced by Swiss cnalct 
influence in the pediment, and ^othic pin- 
nacle. The tastily draped curtains suggest 
cozy, wt^ll-kept living rooms on the sc*c<md 
floor. Toll collection ceased at this place, 
July. U117 



The illustration below shows the more com- 
mon type, found principally in the rural 

districts. 



IMiiLiciflphia and Lanca.stcr, though the majority 
have iinckigone great changes. A few continue 
to accommodate the traveler looking for old- 
fashioned entertainment (though that, too, has al- 
most disappeared from its native environment), 
or who may have a sentimental interest in them. 
But the cities and principal towns along the wav 
provide fully as good accommodations as will he 
lound on the average tour of e(]ual length in New 
Kngland or New York State; and most of the 
tra\el prefers the newer places. 

In Lancaster County the Conestoga wagon was 
originated, and huilt in considerable numbers at 
an early date to meet the demand for a vehicle to 
carry heavy loads across the mountains with a 
minimum amount of attention and repairs en 
route. In 1755, Benjamin Franklin, then post- 
master of Pennsylvania, undertook to suppiv the 
Braddock expedition with 150 of these wagons 
and a number of horses, a contract which its com- 
nuiiulii testified had been executed "with great 



punctuality and integrity." I hey gave excellent 
service on the long, hard trip over what is now the 
nearly abandoned Braddock Road, to within a 
few miles of Fort DiiQuesne; but most of them 
were destroyed on Laurel Hill in the precipitous 
retreat after the battle of the Monongahela. 

Only three years later they were practically in- 
dispensable to the Forbes expedition; and re- 
mained on the road as long afterwards as wagons 
were the chief dependence for transportation, 
traversing the old laurel wilderness of the ,\lle- 
ghanies to the Ohio for a longer time than steam 
has been in use on the railways. So thoroughly 
were they identified with this old highway that 
the route has often been appropriatel\' called the 
"Conestoga Trail." 

Distance and Running Time 

I he dist;mce from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, 
measured throughout for this series, is 299.2 miles 
by the longer, better and more interesting start 




I'tiotfj bi L. A. buniji^un, Btruin, I'a. 

FORMER TOLL-HOUSE AT GLEN LOCH. WEST OF PAOLI, PA. 

This is a typical view of combination dwelling and toll-house, a familiar sight long after the old "Pike" had become a 
great modcrnhighway; but now, fortunately, a thing of the past._ Close scrutiny of buildings along the route will occa- 
sionally identify one which f<trmerly collected toll; but the majority of them have been taken down or greatly altered 

22 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



tliKiiigli Fairmount Park; or about three miles 
less by the original but now poorer way out 
Market St. and Lancaster Ave. This is a trifle 
Luider the mileage between Albany and Buffalo 
by the central trunk-line highway through New 
^'ork State, but still somewhat longer than the 
National Road from Baltimore or Washmgton to 
Wheeling. The latter route is about the same 
distance across the mountains, but its eastern 
terminals are farther inland than Philadelphia. 

1 aking a less direct course, to follow the rivers 
of the interior for greater distances, and reach a 
larger number of cities and towns, the Pennsylva- 
nia R.R. main line between Philadelphia and 
Pittsburgh, built considerably later, is 348.8 
miles, or 49.6 miles farther than the highway. 



made up on either the first or second day without 
interference with the general arrangements. On 
a three days' schedule, it might be well to run 
from Philadelphia to Gettysburg the first day, 
spending the next forenoon looking over the bat- 
tlefield, the afternoon making the comparatively 
short but most hilly section of the route to Bed- 
ford, and the third morning on the final stretch 
into Pittsburgh. 

A Trip Worth While 

This is one of the best and most interesting 
trips in the eastern states. It is a moving ex- 
hibit of high-class agriculture and diversified in- 
dustry, a literal unfolding of the material wealth 
of Pennsylvania, and visible proof of the enter- 




Pboto by L. A. Samj'^uj^, Bcruyn 

THE FORMER WARREN TAVFRN. WEST OF MALVERN. PA. 

Two-story building, with gable ends and old -style dormer windows. The sign, (on pole, left of building), includes a mar- 
rine view, two boats on very blue water, and the lettering, "Ye Admiral Vernon, 1743," referring to the original name of 
the first tavern on or near this site. 



Close together for a considerable part of the way 
between Philadelphia and Lancaster, they di- 
verge east ot the latter, and are wide apart to 
Cireensburg. Then they are fairly parallel to 
their crossing at Turtle Creek, and again at Wil- 
kinsburg, to meet once more as the highway de- 
scends Bigelow Boulevard to the south side of the 
Pennsylvania station in downtown Pittsburgh. 

Ihe trip between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, 
the middle point of which is a few miles west of 
Chambersburg, can be made comfortably in a 
two days' run of approximately 150 miles each, 
allowing for sightseeing en route. Made as a two 
days' trip, the night stop might be planned at 
Gettysburg, Chambersburg or McConnellsburg; 
and the slight variation from the average is easily 



prise and achievements of its people. Onlv about 
an hour's run from the busy Delaware and Schuyl- 
kill rivers the tourist passes alongside the great 
steel plants at Coatesville, and notices other large 
enterprises at frequent intervals through to Pitts- 
burgh. 

Only a few miles west of Philadelphia the route 
enters the old-time "granary of America," com- 
prising the greater part of Chester, Lancaster and 
^ ork counties, the latter two divided their entire 
length by the Susquehanna river; and continues 
through an exceptionally fertile and prosperous 
region to the first range of mountains. Though 
not actually seen on this trip, the world's greatest 
and most valuable supplies of anthracite coal are 
not far north of the section east of Columbia. 



23 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Just west of South Mountain it crosses the scenic, 
prosperous and historic Cumberland vallev. 

i he principal Allephany ridges are mostly cov- 
ered with forests, large sections still too far from 
transportation to he protitahly marketed. The 
vallevs between them are beautiful, and the soil 
of uncommon richness; most of the inland towns 
present a well-kept, prosperous appearance. ."Ap- 
proximately the western third of the trip is 
through the coal, gas and oil districts; a few coke 
plants are also seen, though the princi|Kii coke 
fields are in the Conneils\ illc region inlow (Ireens- 
burg. 

Philadelphia :ind Pittsburgh, as different in 
their history, traditions antl general character as 
in appearance and physical environment, are cities 
of distinct individuality. Both are important 
centers for travel and commerce; one at tidewa- 
ter, on a great system of highways north, south 
and west; the other at the headwaters of the Ohio, 
a commanding gateway into the mid-conrinciu iiy 
road, railway or steamboat. The old thorough- 
fare between them shares their historic legacies; 
and the interest of a motor trip over it may be 
broadened and deepened by observations of and 
acquaintance with the intermediate country. 

After more than two hundred years, the im- 
press of \\ illiain Penn is still upon the ()u;iker 
City by the Delaware; and his policy, a composite 
of liberty, peace and justice, symbolized by the 
treaty at Shackama.xon, is yet a part of the con- 
scious life of its people. 1 he wise, benign and 
spirited face of Benjamin Franklin, printer, diplo- 
mat, philosopher and scientist, carrying nearly 
all his life more than a due share of the nation's 
early distress and poverty, seems turned awav for 
a period rather than forever lost to sight. 

There never was a great personal influence like 
that of either Penn or Franklin at the "Forks of 
the Ohio." France and Kngland waged a long 




I*boto li\ I A Nii'M;ii 17], OtT".v n. /'(I. 

INDICATING 15 MILES FROM PHILADELPHIA 

Ouitc often between Philadelphia and Lancaster, the tourist will notiee 
llu-si- r,Ul hut remarkably well-preserved milestones. This one is a few 
yards from the Waterloo Road, le.'iding from the main highway south- 
ward t<i Devon station 

conflict tor the site; and the decision was one of 
the most momentous in American history. While 
Pittsburgh was yet a frontier town, most of the 
problems of colonial and Revolutionary times had 
been solved; and the AUeghanies had been crossed 
by a strong, hardy race looking toward the future. 




Pliiili) liy Kiiu, Pbtla. 

MACPIIERSON MANSION. MT. PLEAS- 
ANT. lAIRMOUNT PARK, PIIII.A. 



Just olf the East Drive, a short distance north 
of the Grant monument. One of the finest res- 
idences preserved from the Colonial times. Built 
mostly of stone, with stucco finish antl biick 
quoins; surrounded by formal gardens. 



.Ic»hn Adams, who dined here in October, 1775, 
calletl this mansion "the most elegant country 
sejit in Pennsylvania." 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




OLD ST. DAVID'S CHURCH, I' 



I'holo liy L. A. San\]>'ion, Beriv\,n 
MILES SOUTH OF DEVON 



Built of rough, uncut stone. Colonial style, with Welsh modifications; Colonial windows with solid shutters. Rear view, showing 
outside stairway to the choir. The Wayne monument may Lc seen to the left of the large tree at the left, (See below) 



This church, built in 1714 and still regularly used, is "Old 
St. David's at Radnor." While visiting the Centennial at 
Philadelphia in 1S76, the poet Longfellow and his family 
staved at Rosemont, and became acquainted with numerous 
points of interest in this locality. Nearly 4 years later he 



wrote the 7 stanzas, the first lines ot which are: 
What an ijyiage of peace and rest 

Is ihis little cburcb cntumg its graves! 
Ajid all is so quiet; the troubled breast, 

Tbe wounded spirit, (be heart oppressed. 
Here tnay Jind repose it craves. 




THE GEN. ANril()N\ W'A^ NF MONUMENT. IN THE 
CEMErEK\ OI- OLD S L. DAVID'S CHURCH 



Inscription on two sides of the Wayne Monument: 

{North Front) 

Maior-General 

Anthonv Wayne 

was born at Waynesbcirnugli 

In Chester County 

State of Pennsylvania 

A. D. 1745'. 

After a life of honor and usefulness 

He died in December 179fci 

At a military post 

On the shores of Lake Erie 

Commander-in-chief of the army of 

The United States 

His military achievements 

Are consecrated 

In the history of his country 

His remains 

Are here deposited. 

(South Front) 

In honor of the distinguished 

Military service of 

Major-General Anthony Wayne 

And as an alTectionate tribute 

of respect to his memory 

This stone was erected by his companions 

In arms 

The Pennsvlvania State Society of 

The Cincinnati 

July 4th A. D. 1800 

Thirty-fourth anniversary of 

The Independence of the United States 

An event which constitutes the most 

Appropriate eulogium 

of an American Soldier and 

Patriot 



25 




26 



TWO LANDMARKS OF GREAT INTEREST AT VALLEY FORGE 

Locations shown on map. opposite 




NATIONAL MEMORIAL ARCH, VALLEY FORGE, PA. (SEE REFERENCE UNDER DEVON) 

Just west of the intersection of Outer Line Drive and Old Gulph Road. Constructed of granite, 50 feet wide at the base, and 50 
feet high. Erected by the Federal Government in honor of Washington, and in memory of the Continental Army encamped at Val- 
ley Forpe, winter of 1777-78 




WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS AT VALLEY FORGE, PA. 

Near the east bank of Valley Creek, a few yards from the Schuylkill. At the beginnine of the Revolution it was the home of 
Isaac Potts a well-to-do Quaker, who owned the nearby mills. Used as headquarters by Washmgton, December 2 5. 1777 - 
June 19, 1778. Now a public memorial and museum, dedicated June 19, 1879, by the Centennial and Memorial Association 
of Valley Forge 

27 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




28 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 

Chapter II — From Philadelphia to Lancaster — ^7H Miles 
Via the Parkxvay, East Drive of Fairmoimt Park, City Avenue, and the 
Former Lancaster Pike {beyond Overbrook) 

Author's note:— The form of this chapter, covering the Philadelphia suburban district and the interme- 
diate country to Lancaster, differs slightly frotn the text for the remainder of the route. Observation and 
experience prove that the motorist starting on a through trip is impatient of details, particularly on the way 
out of large cities. The eastern section is also changing more rapidly than the interior, and the landmarks 
are identified with more difficulty and less certainty. 

Though comprising only about 22i.> per cent of the total distance from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, this 
division has nearly half the place-names; and the suburban communities are so close together that the 
stranger passing through without stop is at times unable to tell them apart. In this section, also, are a 
considerable number of old buildings, more of which have ceased to be operated as taverns within the past 
year than in any previous whole decade in the history of the road. It will be several years, at least, before 
one may state with even fair accuracy which ones will survive; and meanwhile they will be unreliable "land- 
marks." 

Furthermore, while the close student or special investigator is able to find in reference libraries, de- 
tailed information about points of interest along the Philadelphia-Lancaster section, nothing consecutive 
and comprehensive has been prepared for more than four times that distance from Lancaster to Pittsburgh. 
The central and western sections naturally have greater topographical variety; and their landmarks change 
comparatively little. Hence the general summary of points of interest to Lancaster, and detailed descpri- 
tion beyond. 



The motor tourist starting from Philadelphia 
toward the west usually follows a far different 
route from the one used by stage-coaches and 
freight-wagons before the days of the railroads. 
Leaving the downtown business district, which 
was then along the Delaware river, extending tor 
some distance north and south from the toot ot 
Market and Chestnut streets, those vehicles con- 
tinued directly west along Market .St. through 
Center Square, later Penn Square, now occupied 
by the City Hall, to the Schuylkill river. That 
route may be followed today practically as it was 
by travelers of a century or more ago; but newer 
ways, particularly those through Fairmount Park, 
provide more attractive and better exits. 

After having been under construction for sev- 
eral years, the Parkway, extending diagonally 
northwest from the City Hall, is now (1920) open 
and in good shape for traffic. This entirely new 



thoroughfare, along or nearby which the principal 
civic structures of the future will be erected, forms 
a direct and superior connection into the east 
driveway of Fairmount Park; and with City Ave., 
makes a somewhat longer but, on the whole, a 
preferable way into Lancaster Ave. (Lincoln 
Highway) at Overbrook. 

In most cases tourists will find it advantageous 
to use this route, especially as traffic may go in 
either direction, whereas the principal alternates 
(Walnut St. outbound, and Chestnut St. in- 
bound) are subject to those restrictions; and are 
greatly inferior in general and scenic interest. 
The former most-used routes, notably the one up 
North Broad St. to Spring Garden St., turning 
left at the Baldwin Locomotive Works, past the 
United States Mint, and running into the east 
driveway of Fairmount Park, still remain as good 
and interesting options. 




Pbolo /»v" Rau^ Philadelphia 



SCIIUYLKll.LRIVERDRIVEANDLEMONHILl-OBSERVATORV.PHILADEI PHI A; A CHARACTERISTIC 

VIEW ON THIS WAY OUT OF THE CITY 



29 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Photo by Jtnninfs, Pbita. 

UNITED STATES MINT. 
PlllLADEl PHIA 

West sidc'of Spring Garden St.. between 
loth and 17th streets, passed in usinti the 
N. Broad St. -Spring Garden St. ftption 
from City Hail into I'airmount Park. \j\ 
excellent example of Italian Renaissance 
Architecture; constructed of Maine granite 



Ont- may also cross the Schuylkill at (lirartl 
Ave., and run through the west side of Fairmount 
Park, the site of the Centennial P.\position of 
1876, into City Ave. There are still other op- 
tions, due to the growth of the city north and west, 
and the increasing number of thoroughfares which 
may be used, in whole or in parr, into the Lincoln 
Highway beyond the City Line. 

DIRECTIONS for the Parkway-Fairmount Park- 
c;ity Ave. route reduced to simplest terms are: Leave 
northwest corner of City Hall, out the Parkway into the 
east driveway of Fairmount Park. Follow along east 
bank of Schuylkill river to City Ave. (first left-hand turn 
beyond the pumping station). Cross iron bridge over 
river, and proceed southwest along City Ave. to rijiht-hantl 
turn into Lancaster Ave. (Lincoln lllfj;hwav) at the Over- 
brook Presbyterian Church, "-^ miles from the start at Citv 
I lall. Practically no directions are needed for the balance 
ol the way to Lancaster. 

A Stranger's ordinary impression in running out 
of Philadelphia this way is likely to be a composite 
of the e.xtensive, well-kept park, traversed bv a 
vast system of streets and avenues leading in va- 
rious directions, and cut by railroad lines met in 
unexpected places. N'iews of the placid Schuyl- 
kill, and the bridges by which roads and railways 
cross it, of compact residence districts which come 
quickly into view and :dmost as soon disappear 
from sight, with now and then glimpses of some 
of the many institutions for which Philadelphiii 
is noted, lend interest and variety to the few 
minutes which this part of the trip will rciiuirc. 

I he most conspicuous hnulmarks — w hich m;i\ 
he seen to fair advantage even when passing them 
without stop —are the "Presidential monuments," 
a notable group of three. Just beyond the en- 
trance into the east driveway of the park, from 
cither the Parkway or Spring (Jarden St. is the 
large and imposing Washington monument (eques- 
trian). In the next prominent fork bevond (about 
half-way between the entrance and (lirard Ave. 
bridge), is the only Lincoln monument on this 
route east of CJettysburg, the figure in a sitting 
posture on a high pedestal. The third, an eques- 
trian statue of Grant, in complete field equip- 
ment, overlooks the river from its position on the 
nght-hand side ot the driveway a short distance 
lH\nnd (iir;ird Ave. bridge. 

.\RDMORE is the first of the "main-line" sub- 



urbs met on this route (though not thf first on the 
railroad). On the right, at about the center, is 
the extensive plant of the Auto-car Co. In the 
olden days, the Lancaster Pike through Ardmore 
(before the present name was given to it), was well 
supplied with taverns, some of historic character; 




Pboto by Hiiu, Pbtla 

WASHINGTON .MONUMENT. FAIRMOUNT PARK. PHIl A. 

Conspicuously on the right, just beyond th Parkway-Sprinp Garden 
St entrance. The equestrian figure, a bronze cast 20 feet high, one of 
the largest and finest in the country, represents the hrst Conintander- 
in-Ch*ef, looking southeast, toward City Hall. Designed by Prof. Ru- 
dolph Sicmcring, Berlin; mounted upon a granite pier, and approached 
from the base by 1 I steps, emblematic of the original States 

The movement for a memorial to the "Father of his Countr.v" dates 
back to about 1811; and about $280,000 had accumulated before a start 
was made. Erected 18^X^-'^7, under auspices Pennsylvania Society of 
the Cincinnati; unveiled by President McKinley, 18^)7 



30 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




places in an almost continuous residence section. 

WAYNE, named after Genera! Anthony Wayne, 
was the location of the "Spread Eagle," one of the 
most noted taverns on this route in stage-coach 
davs. George William Childs, the publisher and 
philanthropist, owned considerable realty here 
some forty years ago; and the attractive ivy-cov- 
ered library, on the left, bears his name. 

DEVON is the place from which two detours 
are made by many tourists using this route: (1) 
northwest about four miles to Valley Forge, the 
bivouac of the Continental army under Wash- 
ington during the winter of 1777-78; and (2) a 
short two miles southwest to St. Davids Church, 
widely known as having been the subject of Long- 
fellow's poem. "Old St. Davids at Radnor." Gen- 
eral Anthony Wayne is buried in the cemetery of 
this church. 

BERWYN is a beautiful suburban village. Near 
"Signal Hill," south of it, "Light Horse Harry" 
Lee had a skirmish, January 14, 1778, with a force 
of Tarleton's (British) dragoons. About three 
miles north of our route, from a point just west of 
the railroad station, is "Chesterbrook Farm," es- 
tate of the late Alexander J. Cassatt, former pres- 



Pbolo by Rau, Pbila. 

LINCOLN MONUMENT, FAIRMOUNT PARK. PHILADELPHIA 

In triangle of roadways, about midway between the Parkway Spring 
Garden St. entrance and Girard Ave. bridge. The first Lincoln monu- 
ment on this route (westbound) across Pennsylvania 

The bronze figure, by Randolf Cross, an American at Rome; cast in 
Munich. Erected by Lincoln Monument Association, Philadelphia; 
dedicated Sept. 22, 1871, the *^th anniversary, announcement of Eman- 
cipation Proclamation (Sept. 32, 18(^2), Monument faces southeast 
toward the city, overlooking the East Drive and the Schuylkill 

but most of them have already gone, and few if 
any will much longer remain. 

The highway now runs for .several miles through the 
"Welsh tract," set apart by William Penn for settlement 
by \\ elsh immigrants. It was intended to become a bar- 
ony, with its own laws; but that plan was never realized. 
The names of most of the places in this section, including 
Haverford, Bryn Mawr, Radnor, Devon, Berwyn and 
Tredyffrin (a township namej are Welsh. 

HAVERFORD, just beyond Ardmore, is best 
known as the location of Haverford College, an 
old and well-known institution under the general 
auspices of the Society of Orthodox Friends (Qua- 
kers). Founded in 1833, as Haverford School; 
became a college in 18S3. Noted for extensive 
and beautiful grounds, reached through stone 
gates, on the left; not conspicuous when passed at 
speed. 

BRYN MAWR is a high-class suburb, with 
many fine estates. Its principal object ot inter- 
est is Bryn Mawr College, located on the north 
side of the railroad, some distance off this route, 
and therefore not seen clearly unless one makes a 
detour to reach it. ROSEMONT adjoins Bryn 
Mawr along this highway, on the west. 

VILLA NOVA is the site of a massive group of 
stone buildings, known collectively as Villa Nova 
College, under the auspices of the Augustinian 
fathers. 

RADNOR and ST. DAVIDS are suburban 




Fboto eopyrigbted by Hau, Pbila. 

GRANT MONUMENT, FAIRMOUNT PARK, PHILA. 

Third and last presidential monument along this run through the park. 
At intersection of East Drive and Fountain Green Drive, close to mam- 
line tracks, P. & R. R.R., overlooking the river. Represents Geti^ U. S 
Grant in complete field equipment. Bronze by Daniel Chester French 
and Edward C. Potter. Cast by Bureau Brothers; Jonesboro granite, 
designed by Frank Miles Day. 

Erected partly by subscription, increased by appropriation from Phila- 
delphia City Councils, unveiled and accepted by Commissioners of 
Fairmount Park, "Grant Day," April 27, 18W. Ceremonies were at- 
tended by President McKinlev, members of his cabinet, Mrs. U. S. 
Grant, M"aj.-Gen. Miles, and distinguished guests in military and civil 
life. 



31 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




From portrait hy Charles Wilson Ptale, furnished liy W'itlam W'ayiw 

GENERAL ANTHONY WA^NE 

The apprllation "Mad Anthony" Wayne, does an injustice to the niem- 
nry «)f this famcHis oMieer, whose achievements were due to genius for 
organization and coninianti, great ability, loyal purpose and self-sac- 
rilice 

iclcnt of the Pennsylvania Railroad, anil now 
owned by his son. Major E. B. Cassatt. 

DAYLESFORD was the location of the "Blue 
Ball" tavern, one of the earliest along this route. 
On the left, between Daylesford station and Fa- 
oli, is the home of the TredyfTrin Country Club, 
and its extensive golf grounds. 

PAOLI, named after Pascal Paoli, a Corsican 
general, was once best-known as the location of 
the General Paoli tavern. Somewhat more than 



a mile south is "Waynesborough House." birth- 
place of Cien. .Anthon\ Wayne, and bis home dur- 
mg the comparatively short period when he was 
not m the service of his country. 1 he older part 
of the building was erected in 1742 and the pres- 
ent main part in 1765. This elegant stone man- 
sion of the olden time is on an estate of 321 acres 
now owned by Hon. William Wayne, great-great 
grandson of the famous General. 




I^boto tiy Cbarlts li. Barker 

ONCETHE "VVIl 1 lAM PENN INN" 

On the north side of the highway between Overbrook and Ardmore. A 
substantial conuiiodious tavern of the olden time; for many years resi- 
dence of the late N. P. Shortridgc 

GREEN TREE (Station) perpetuates the 
name of the "(ireen Tree" tavern ot stage-coach 
days. One mile beyond that station — just in 
front of the point where the route turns right to 
pass under the Trenton branch. Pennsylvania 
Railroad, is a large old building, formerly the cel- 
ebrated Warren tavern. 




Pbuo t>y (). M Ctase, Hcierjord Coltfge 

"llAVEREOHD UNION," ROBERTS HAl.l,. AND BARCLAY HALL. HAVERFORD COLLEGE 

Panoramic view, front left to right, of the Cullcgc club house, the Auditorium and Administration building, and one of 
ihc dormitories, all partly concealed by heavy foliage 

32 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Photo by L. A. Sampson, Beruyn 

"WAVNESBOROUGH," THE WAYNE HOMESTEAD. SOUTH OF PAOLI, PA. 

Architecture, Georgian Colonial, with Welsh modifications. Superior workmanship, and fine detail much in evidence. An unusual 
feature is the portico, without supporting columns, over the front entrance. The vine overrunning'neariy all of the side of the house 
is an excellent specimen of Kenilworth ivy 




Pbolo by I. 
ONCE KNOWN AS THE "GENERAL WA^NE," AT FRAZER. PA. 



Sampson, Beiwyn 



A substantial well-preserved "wagon-stand" (recalling the times when freight was hauled over the old Pike), transformed into 
a commodious summer residence; owned by Judge Joseph P. Rogers, of Philadelphia The long, narrow canopy roof over the 
first story, and the pergola on the right-hand side of the picture, are modern additions 

33 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



r 




«!i>-.- 



''^^* ^* .'^^^^'LyJraX^^.l^^^rtt^t — 



Photo by L. A, Sampson, Berw\'n 

"I'AOll MASSACRE" MONUMENTS. SOUTH OF THE HIGHWAY NEAR MALVERN. PA. 

Thf Paoli-Malvcrn district — crossed, northward, by the British and Continental armies on their way from Brandy- 
wine battlefield to the Schuykill River (Valley Forge) — was in the outer zone of military operations along this route 
during the Revolution 



Looking northeast (dim outline of Mal- 
vern in the distance); Pennsylvania R.R. 
main line and Lincoln Highway heyond 
the extreme hackjiroiind. I he smaller 
montiment was erected in 1817, 40 years 
after the massacre; and the larget one in 
1K77, the 100th anniversary, celebrated 
Sept. 21, that year. On the west side of 
the larger monument, cut into the stone, 
is this inscription: 



S.ACRKD 

ro the memory ol the 

Patriots 

who on this spot 

fell a sacrifice to 

British barbarity 

during the struggle for 

.American Independence 

on the night of the 
20th of September, 1777 




Pbolo by L. A. Sampson, Bnuyn 
STONE URIDGE ACROSS EAS 1 BKA.M.ll. UKAND\ WINE CREEK. DOWNINGTOWN. PA. 

A three-arched structure of segment form, with round stone pilasters and prominent keystones. Built in 1801 of first- 
class stone masonry, and still in good condition 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




photo hy L. A. Sampson, Berwyn 



FRIENDS' MEETING HOUSE 

On the highway, east of Downingtown. The 
Society ol Friends, organized in 1807, has since 
worshipped regularly at this old stone house 



The route now descends into the Chester Valley, across 
which it will run lor the next several miles. This section 
of Chester Co. was originally settled by Quakers, Germans 
and Swiss, with an intermingling of French Huguenots, 
probably the most composite immigration of colonial times. 

MALVERN is the nearest point on this route 
(ahoiit 1 mile) to the grounds known as the place 
of the "Paoli massacre." On the night of Sep- 
tember 20, 1777, Gen. Charles Grey with a con- 
siderable British force came upon a small detach- 
ment of Americans belongmg to Gen. Wayne's 
command; and refusing quarter, killed S3 of them 
in cold blood; hence the accepted name of the 
event. The site is marked by a monument with 
cannon. 

FRASER is the location of Villa Maria Acad- 
emy, occupvmg a sightly plateau about a half- 
mile south of the through route. At this point 
the West Chester branch of the Pennsylvania 
Railroad leaves the main line, almost due south. 

GLEN LOCH, EXTON and WHITFORD are 

small residence suburbs. These few miles along 
the route are of slight interest to the through 
traveler; but (especially part of the old line, some- 
what north), of considerable interest to the stu- 
dent of the history of the road. 

EAST DOWNINGTOWN and DOWNING - 
TOWN are among the oldest settlements between 
Philadelphia and Lancaster, dating back to about 
1710. The stone bridge across the east branch of 
the Brandywine here was built in 1801; and is still 
carrying the heavy traffic of the road. Favorable 
mill-sites afforded by the stream attracted early 
home-seekers; for a long time in pioneer days, the 
grist-mill here was the only one for miles about, 
and the settlement became the trading center for 
western Chester County and eastern Lancaster 
County. 

Originally called Milltown. the place was after- 
ward known as Downing's Mill, from which the 
present names have been derived. I averns at 
both East Downingtown and Downingtown ac- 



commodated stage-coach travel during the turn- 
pike era. At least two excellent specimens, one 
on either side of the creek, have been preserved; 
but both are now private residences. During the 
last quarter-century, the Downingtowns have be- 
come considerable industrial centers. 

The birthplace of Thomas Buchanan Read, author of 
"Sheridan's Ride," is at Korner Ketch, about 4 miles from 
Downingtown, reached by taking the right-hand road 
(Harrisburg or "Horseshoe'' Pike) about 100 yards west of 
the stone bridge over Brandywine Creek. For the two 
additional turns necessary to reach the homestead, note 
the stone marker with bronze inscription, pl.iced by the 
Chester Co. Historical Societv about 3 miles out on the 
"Horseshoe" Pike. 

The stretch from Downingtown through the 




Fbolo by L. A. Sampson, Berwyn 

LOG HOUSE, EAST DOWNINGTOWN. PA. 

On the right-hand side of highway, close by the bridge which separates 
East Downingtown from Downingtown. Built in or about I7I0; a lit- 
eral survivor of the days of the Wilderness in this region. Oldest dwell- 
ing in the locality, antedating by several years the ancient mill which 
gave Downingtown its first importance 



35 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




i-. 



J^ 



Pbnlo by L. A. Sampson. Berwvn 

ONCE THE GENERAL "WASHINGTON" TAVERN 

A cclcbrati'd inn on the eastern edgr of Downinctown, the half-wny point between Philadelphia and Lancaster. With the 
the exeeptinn of the porch, a comparatively modern addition, this building stands as it did at the height of the stngr- 
coach era 




Pbolo b\ L. A. Sampson, Beruyn 

PUBLIC I lhKAK^. DOWNINCTOWN, PA. 

A fine old-style Colonial mansion, with unusually pruniiiuni ilornuT windows, rounded at the top The arched 
doorway, with pillars on each side, is an interesting architectural feature 



36 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



village of Thorndale to Coatesville is practically 
a straightaway alongside the railroad and trolley, j^ 
traversing the gradually narrowing western end 
of the Chester Valley. 



COATESVILLE, on the west branch of Bran- 
dywine Creek, was settled much later than the 
Downingtowns, and has much less early history. 
It has been, however, an important steel manu- 
facturing center for over a hundred years. The 
great plant of the Lukens Steel Co. adjoins the 
roadway on the left; that formerly known as the 
Worth Bros. Co., now a part of the Midvale Steel 
& Ordnance Co., is farther south. In plain sight, 
on the right, is a stone viaduct often arches, carry- 
ing the main line of the Pennsylvania Railroad 
over the west branch of the Brandywine Creek. 

Leaving Coatesville, our route ascends an un- 
expectedly steep grade and enters the semi-high- 
lands characteristic of the section from here to 
Lancaster. About 43/2 rniles beyond the next 
village (Sadsburyville), the route passes from 
Chester County into Lancaster County, the latter 
extending the balance of the way to the Susque- 
hanna river. Just beyond the inter-county line 
is an elevation of 843 feet, the highest point on 
this road between Philadelphia and South Moun- 
tain (west of Gettysburg). 

The next stretch of this route, running just 
north of Gap village, then through Kinzer, Vin- 
tage (formerly Williamstown), Leaman Place, 
Paradise and Soudersburg, is of considerable his- 
toric interest; and there are a number ot old tav- 
erns and other buildings on or nearby the high- 





Phoio /?> L. A. Sampson, Berwyn 
ROADSIDE MARKER IDENTIFYING THE BIRTHPLACE OF 
THOMAS BUCHANAN READ 

Reached by short side-trip, northwest along the Harrisburg ("Horse- 
shoe") Pike, from Downinglown 



Fbotu />v L. A. Sumitson, Bcruyn 

OLD SLAVMAKER TAVERN NEAR GAP 

Built about 17^4 by Amos Slaymaker, of the firm of Reeside & -Slay- 
niaker, operators of passenger stage lines. Known during the stage- 
coach era as the "Sign of John Adams" 

wav. But they and their associations require 
more time and detailed examination than the av- 
erage through tourist is able to give to them. 

Just before entering the eastern end of Lancas- 
ter, this route crosses Conestoga creek by the fa- 
mous old "Witmer Bridge," erected in 1800 as a 
toll-bridge bv Abraham Witmer, when the local- 
ity was unable to build a suitable structure for 
free public use. Ihis is said to be the oldest 
bridge, at least on any heavily traveled route, in 
the United States; and except for being now some- 
what narrow, is serving the greatly increased 
traffic as satisfactorily as during the era of the 
stage-coach and freight-wagon. The lettering 
cut into the sides of this old stone structure is well 
worth stopping to read. 

LANCASTER, laid out in 1730, is one of the 
oldest and most historic places in the interior of 
Pennsylvania. At the original Court House 
here, in 1744, the celebrated "Treaty of Lancas- 
ter" was framed and signed by commissioners 
from Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia, in 
conference with representatives of the Six Na- 
tions (Iroquois) who, claiming this and the west- 
ern territory by virtue of their conquest of the 
Delawares, ceded to Virginia for £400, and some 
minor considerations, "all the lands to the setting 
sun," which was the basis for the later claims of 
Virginia to vast regions beyond the Alleghanies 
and the Ohio river. About 1763, the Susque- 
hannock or Conestoga tribe Indians were practi- 
cally exterminated; but the name of that tribe is 
perpetuated in the Susquehanna river, Conestoga 
creek, and elsewhere throughout this section. 
fTWhen, after the battle of the Brandywine, in 
September, 1777, the British occupied Philadel- 
phia, the Continental Congress met for one day 
in the originalCourt House; but after an informal 



57 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 





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38 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




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39 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Pbolo by L. A. Sampson, Berwyn 
EASTERN AI'PKOACIl TO CONESTOGA BRIDGE 

meeting there tr:insfened its sessions farther in- 
land to ^Ork. I his is the basis for the statement 
that Lancaster was for one day the capital of the 
United States. In 1789, the citizens of this place 
addressed a memorial to Congress proposing that 
Lancaster be made the permanent capital. 

This was the chief inland city of Penn's colony. 
and until 18(X) the largest inland toun in the 
United States. From the earliest days, it was .1 
road and travel center of great importance; ami 
the Philadelphia and Lancaster Turnpike, con- 
structed in 17'>4-96, was the first improved high- 
way of its length in the country. Other turn- 
pikes followed rapidly, until the principal points 
in eastern Pennsylvania were connected up with 
this enterprising and prosperous community. 
Lancaster was, naturally, an important center for 
stage-coach and freight-wagon traffic: and was 



well supplied with taverns during that period. 

Now it is a growing manufacturing city, situ- 
ated in what is still often called the "richest agri- 
cultural county in the United States." It was the 
home of Gen. John F. Reynolds, killed in the first 
day's fight at Ciettysburg. of Ihaddeus Stevens, 
James Buchanan, and many other notable people 
of former days. Robert Fulton, the inventor, 
also resided here during part of his youth. 



Tii 



^*ASn^\KTax hotkl 



VAjrr RBtic.i 




■A 







/■r..m ,•■• .. . .,1 

LANCASTER VIEW DURING THE STAGE-COAC.H ERA 

.Miller's Hold (sign of General Washington), and Earmcrs Bank, ad- 
ioininK,same; S. W. t-or. E. KinR and N. Duke streets; now oeeupied by 
Eariners Trust Co. A bank has been eontinuously on that site since 
about 1810, the lirst one being literally a farmers' bank 



During the Rexdiiirion, Lancaster County 
supplied more food, wagons, clothing and other 
war materials to the Continental armies than 
any other place in the colony, Philadelphia ex- 
cepted. 

Here was the original home of the Conestoga 
wagon, a typical .American product, which 
greatly infiuenced wagon construction through- 
out the LInited States more than a cenrurv ago. 




WIIMER'S BRIDGE. EAST OF 
LANCASTER 



Taken in summer from the south 
side, before the trolley was built, 
and before the trestle on which it 
now crosses Conestoga creek was 
constructed 



40 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 

Chapter III — From Lancaster to ) ork—'24}^ Miles 
Via Mountville, Coliinilna, Wrightsville, Hettain and Stony Brook 



Starting west from ].anc:ister, the tourist pro- 
ceeds out W. King St. (continuation of E. King St. 
from the opposite side of Center Square), and is 
headed for the Susquehanna river at Columbia. 
Several points of general and historical interest 
may be seen on this direct way out; and still more 
if one cares to make a short detour in the farther 
end of the city to pass Franklin and Marshall 
College, and "Wheatland," the former home of 
James Buchanan, both referred to in later para- 
graphs. 

Passing notice should be given to Lancaster's 
interesting old City Hall, on the northwest corner 
made by North Queen St. and the Square, the lo- 
cation of the "Market Lot" in the early days. On 
the north side of it was Market Square, no longer 
in existence; and on the south side the City Hall 
was built, probably in 1786, '87 or '88. From 
1798 to 1812, when Lancaster was the capital of 
Pennsylvania, it was occupied by the State offi- 
ces; and in some of the old records is referred to 
as the "State House. " 

One block beyond — on the northwest corner of 
West King and North Prince streets — stood the 
old jail and workhouse, long since torn down. On 



December 14, 17C)3, alter the massacre of Con- 
estoga Indians by the company of lawless men 
known as the "Paxtang Boys," at Indiantown, in 
Manor lownship, lourteen who were absent from 
the village at the time among the white people, 
were collected by the magistrates, brought to 
Lancaster, and placed in this building. 

Ignoring the proclamation of CJov. John Penn. 
who denounced the outrage, and offered a reward 
for the arrest and punishment of the murderers, 
the "Paxtang Boys" again came to Lancaster, 
and breaking into the jail, killed all the Indians 
there. This practically exterminated the Con- 
estogas, the remnant of the once powerful Sus- 
quehannocks. who a century before held domin- 
ion over all the other tribes in the lower Susque- 
hanna valley, as well as those living on the shores 
of Chesapeake bay. 

On the south side of West King St., about a 
block and a half beyond the City Hall, is a large 
umbrella manufacturing plant. On the opposite 
(north) side, at the northeast corner ot Mulberry 
St., the second street west of where the old jail 
stood — is the old Plow Tavern, a quaint and-one- 
a-half story stone house, said to have been erected 




41 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




l*bolo bv 



. J>'am;>.son, Itctuyn 



CENTMK OR PENN SQUARE, LANCASTER, PA. 



Site of first Cimrl House in Lnncustcr County, where the Continent.-il Congress held one session (Sept. 1777) That was burned in 1784: and 
a new one finished on same site in 1787. When the present Court House at H. King and N. Duke streets was ready in 1850, the second one 
was demolished, and the old location made an open square The soldiers' monument. cappc<l with fipure of I iherty. was unveiled July 4. 1874. 



in 1756. I his is one of the oldest now in the city; 
but there wen- tiivcrns here long before it was es- 
tablished. 

Connniiinp; west, one comes qiiickiv to the con- 
spicuous fork of Columbia and Marietta avenues, 
with a brick "flat-iron" Iniildini; in the anp;ie. 
I his has been an imjiortant dividing point tor 
travel since the early days, the right-hand road. 
Marietta Ave., being the short route to Marietta 
and the old Donegal country a few miles north 
an! northwest of the direct route at Columbia. 

Franklin and .Marshall Coi.i.niK 

Before running out of the city, it will be well 
worth a little additional time and mileage to turn 
diagtmally right on .Marietta .Ave. a short dis- 
tance to College Ave., an intersection identified 
by St. Joseph's Hospital on the northwest cor- 
ner. Turning right on College Ave., the tourist 
comes almost at once in front of the attractive, 
well-kept grounds of Franklin and Marshall Col- 
lege, the oldest and best known institution o[ 
the Reformed Church in the United States. The 
accompanving panoramic \iew conveys a good 
idea of the grounds and buildings, which include 
the college proper, the Theological Seminary anil 
the Academy, a preparatory school connected 
with the college. 

Franklin College dates back to 1787, when its 



charter was obtained for the purpose of estab- 
lishing a college among the Pennsylvania Ger- 
mans. Benjamin Franklin, its largest individual 
contributor, was present at its founding; and his 
name was afterwards given to it. .Among the 
fort\-flve original trustees were four signers of the 
Declaration of Independence; Benjamin Rush, 
Cieorge Clymer, Robert Morris and Thomas Mc- 
Kean; also three who became governors of Penn- 
sylvania, Ihomas McKean, 1 homas Mifflin and 
[ost-ph Heister. Other prominent trustees were 
jasper ^ eates and William Rawle, distinguished 
jurists, and \\ illiam Bingham and Peter Muhlen- 
berg, afterwards United States senators. 

The college was started in the Brew house, on 
Fast Mifflin St., near I rinity Lutheran Church, 
then :ibout the center of the town. It was after- 
ward removed to the Stone house, located on 
North Queen St. near James St. In 1840, a build- 
ing was erected on the east side of North Lime St. 
north of Orange St.; and here it was conducted 
until moved to the present location. 

Marshall College, originally at Mercersburg, 
was chartered b\' the Pinnsylvania legislature in 
lS.i6, and named in honor of Chief Justice John 
Marshall, of N'lrgima. I he older institution at 
Lancaster met with some vicissitudes, and was 
closed between 1821 and 1S39. In ISS.i Marshall 
College and Franklin College were united under 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



the present name, grounds were purchased in the 
western part of Lancaster, new buildings were 
erected, and Marshall College was moved from 
Mercersburg. The first president of the enlarged 
corporation was Rev. Dr. E. V'. Gerhart. 

James Buchanan was first president of the 
Board of Trustees. Among the more distin- 
guished of its presidents was the Rev. Dr. John 
Williamson Nevin, whose memorial may have 
been noticed in front of the reservoir grounds in 
the eastern part of the city. Rev. Dr. Henry H. 
Apple is now at its head. Presidents of the Board 
of Trustees, after James Buchanan, have been 
Hon. John Cessna, the late George F. Baer, the 
late William U. Hensel, and B. F. Fackenthai, 
Jr., the present incumbent. 

Last Glimpses of L.^ncaster 

In the olden days most of the travel from Lan- 
caster to Harrisburg started up North Queen St. 
or North Prince St., turning northwest into the 
Harrisburg Pike in the northern part of the city. 
But on account of the number of railroad tracks 
on that exit, the much better streets and more 
points of interest along the newer way, most of 
the travel now goes west on West King St. to Ma- 
rietta Ave. to College .Ave., and nortbward past 
Franklin and Marshall College into the Harris- 
burg Pike. If continuing our present route west 
over the Lincoln Highway, an interesting way 
back to it, after inspecting the college grounds, is 
to retrace on College Ave. to the intersection of 
Marietta Ave. 

Turning right at St. Joseph's Hospital, and 
starting northwest along Marietta Ave., one will 
pass, a block farther on, the large and attractive 
building of the Henry G. Long Asylum for old 
ladies. A short distance farther out on the left- 
hand side of Marietta Ave. is "Wheatland," the 
former estate of James Buchanan. It is a beau- 
tiful old home, built by William Jenkins, Esq., of 
Lancaster, and afterwards owned by William M. 
Meredith, Secretary of the Treasury in Zacharv 



Taylor's cabinet. 

Perhaps the most satisfactory way back into 
the main route westward is to retrace along Mari- 
etta Ave. (southeast) to West End Ave., and 
then, turning to the right, cross by that avenue 
at the large building of the Hamilton Watch Co., 
set in spacious grounds. A right turn is made at 
this point into Columbia Ave. (Lincoln High- 
way). Almost immediately beyond, the city 
limits are passed, and one enters the old Lancas- 
ter & Susquehanna Turnpike, another route whose 
name survives, despite its incorporation during 
recent years into the greater highway. 

On the south side, several blocks farther out, is 
"Caernarvon Place," the former home of Rev. 
Dr. John Williamson Nevin, an eminent ex-pres- 
ident of Franklin and Marshall College. On the 
same side, a short distance beyond, is "Abbey- 
ville," built by Langdon Cheves, of South Caro- 
lina, as a summer residence, and named after his 
native town in that State. It is now owned by 
Mrs. Elizabeth H. .Appel, of Lancaster. Ihe 
Turnpike soon makes a slight descent to Little 
Conestoga creek; and after crossing same, rises 
gradually to a considerable ridge, from which the 
last views of Lancaster are had on this trip. 

Through Mountville to Columbia 

The next few miles traverse one ot the most ex- 
tensive tobacco growing regions north ot the Ma- 
son and Dixon line which, the first-time visitor 
may be surprised to know, is only a few miles 
south, forming the boundary between Lancaster 
County and the State of Maryland. During the 
summer, great fields of the fragrant plant, look- 
ing in the distance like never-ending carpets of 
deep green, border either side of the road for miles, 
sometimes reaching inland as far as the eye can 
reach. 

Here and there are barns of all shapes and sizes, 
easily identified by the many open spaces needed 
for proper curing indoors. 1 he large crops 
raised in this section have made Lancaster one of 




C Liltig & Co. 
PANORAMIC VIEW OF FRANKLIN AND MARSHALL COLLEGE, LANCASTER, PA. 

43 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



the- principal tobacco markets of the northern 
states, as evidenced by its many larjie ware- 
houses and numerous cif;ar factories. 

From now on the tourist is conscious of having 
diverged from the direct route from Philadelphia 
to Harrisburg. This is part of the shortest line 
of travel and transportation from the old Quaker 
City to the Sus(iuehanna, whose course south ot 
Harrisburg is southeast until it empties into Ches- 
apeake liay a short distance below Havre de (irace, 
Maryland. It is likewise part of the old 
route from Lancaster and points east of Freder- 
ick, Maryland, where mam-hne highway connec- 
tions are made southward for Harper's Ferry and 
the Shenandoah Valley, or for Hagcrstnwn and 
points west of the National Road. 

About a mile and a quarter beyond Little Cones- 
toga creek (approximateK three miles west ot the 
s<)uare at Lancaster), the highway reaches an ele- 
vation of 415 feet, the highest point along this 
stretch; then, after about a mile of almost level 
running, one begins the long but almost imper- 
ceptible descent to the Sus<|uehanna. The inter- 
urban trolley follows this section of the main road 
all the way from Lancaster to the eastern out- 
skirts of Columbia, and there is not a turn in 
either along the way. 

Gradually the Columbia branch of the Penn- 
sylvania R. R., which diverges from the mam line 
a short distance northwest of Lancaster, comes 
into our route from the right, and is crossed by 
an overhead bridge just east of Mountville, the 
principal intermediate point. On the left of this 
little village is a church of the United Brethren, 
like many others to be seen along the roadsides 
in central and western Pennsylvania, as well as 
quite generally through eastern and central Ohio. 

Once an Important Iron Mining District 

Our route is now coming into an extensive iron- 
mining region, embracing considerable sections of 
Lancaster and York counties, on both sides of the 
Susciuehanna. For many years before the phe- 
nomenal development of the iron industries in 
western Pennsylvania, Ohio, and on the Ciieat 
Lakes, due to the vast (juantities ot high-gnule 
ore in the Northwest, and cheap water transpor- 
tation all or most of the way to the newer mills, 
this region was the most important iron-produc- 
ing locality in the United States. 

The native ore is brown hematite, with wliicii 
was mixed a percentage of magnetic ore from 
Cornwall, Lebanon County, Pa., the admixture 
yielding about 45 per cent of metallic iron. Over 
to the right, less than a mile to the north after 
leaving Mountville, is Chestnut Hill, elevation 
595 feet, the nearest of these mines to our route. 
This was for many years the principal source of 
supply for the blast furnaces at Chickies, along 
the river immediately north of Columbia, and at 
Marietta, a few miles farther up the Susquehanna. 

In the olden days, charcoal was used tor fuel, 
no pig iron having been successfully produced by 
any other means prior to 1S40. During the early 
period the most enterprising ironmasters pur- 



chased large tracts of timber land, even as far 
west as South Mountain, in ortier to assure their 
supply of fuel. But in the decade following 1840, 
anthracite began to take the place of charcoal; 
and tor many years the hard coal was boated down 
the Susquehanna to Marietta, Columbia. Safe 
Harbor (an old-time manufacturing and shipping 
point at the junction ot Conestoga creek with the 
Susquehanna, below Columbia), and other local- 
ities conveniently reached by water. 

.Another revolutionary change in the lueling of 
blast furnaces dates back only ;i comparatively 
tew years, when coke began to supplant anthra- 
cite coal, which was aLso about the time when the 
competition of the larger and newer plants began 
to be telt. I he local deposits of brow n hematite 
were not sufficient to supply furnaces of the largest 
capacity; and those along or nearby the Susque- 
hanna were handicapped by their distance from 
the coke producing fields. So while there are still 
a number of blast furnaces and forges and a vari- 
ety of mills in both Lancaster and York counties, 
the region has lost its old-time importance in this 
respect. 

Much of the past and present prosperity of this 
part of the State traces back to the enterprise, in- 
genuity and thritt of the early ironmasters, who 
were principally Welsh, Scotch-Irish, Fnglish and 
(lermans, with a considerable number of Quakers 
ot different nationalities. 1 he fertile soil and the 
transportation business resulting from these many 
industries were largely responsible for the vast 
scheme of internal improvements of somewhat 
less than a century ago, which centered around 
Columbia more than any other interior point in 
the early Commonwe;ilth. 

On the left-hand or south side of the highway, 
nearly opposite the point where Chestnut Hill is 
seen over to the right, is the former Garber. home- 
stead. Due probably to some changes in the 
;ilignment of the old road in building the turnpike, 
the tarmhouse now faces away from it. This was 
long the home of Jacob B. (larber, who as a youth 
was greatly interested in botany, and in 1832 
erected here probably the hrst greenhouse west of 
Philadelphia. lo this place he gave the very ap- 
propriate name of "Floral Retreat;" and spent 
much of his time gathering a gre;it variety of 
plants. 

Here in 1S3S his son. \br:im P. Garber, was 
born, and grew to young manhood in a region not 
only of great fertility and scenic beauty, but also 
of unusual interest and opportunity tor botanical 
stud\' and research. Lancaster Counts' was dur- 
ing the middle of the last century the home of sev- 
eral eminent scientists, among them Prof. S. S. 
Haldeman of Marietta, naturalist and linguist, 
and S. S. Rathvon, of Lancaster, one of the most 
noted entomologists of his time. In this environ- 
ment, with his father's example and counsel, 
\()ung Garber took up his favorite science in a 
very thorough and originiil way, ;ind pursued it 
until he became widely known as a successful 
botanical explorer. 

Toward the close of the War between the 



44 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




POWDER WAGON. ISIl-l^ll 

Reproduction of one of the wagons that carried powder over this route to Commodore Perry at Lake Erie in 1813. 
This view was taken in 1913 while passing through Lancaster Co., Pa. 



States, Garber was in military service, afterwards 
entering Lafayette College, Easton, Pa., from the 
scientific department of which he graduated in 
1868. He then became assistant in natural his- 
tory there, and during the next few years made 
several trips of exploration in Pennsylvania and 
neighbormg states, adding many features to the 
herbarium of that institution. In 1869 he en- 
tered the medical school of the University of Penn- 
sylvania, Philadelphia, graduating in 1872, and 
for a short time practiced in Pittsburgh. 

Failing in health, he went to Florida and the 
West Indies, making so extensive explorations 
among the flora of the Florida peninsula as to at- 
tract the attention of leading botanists in the 
United States and Europe. Returning north, 
Mr. Garber died in 1881, on his way home from 
a sojourn in the northwestern part of the State, 
and was buried in the old cemetery at Mount- 
viUe. Several varieties of rare plants were named 
for him, both before and after his death, notably 
the "Garbena," a genus of the thistle, so named 
by Asa Gray. 

In 1885, Hiram L. Garber sold his brother's 
private collections to Franklin and Marshall Col- 
lege, Lancaster, for a nominal sum, with the un- 
derstanding that it should be known as the A. P. 
Garber Herbarium, which it is today. Some 
parts of it were subsequently exchanged with the 
herbarium of Columbia University and the Botan- 
ical Garden, New York City. 1 he Smithsonian 
Institution, Washington, has a number of the 
Garber specimens. 

Additional information about Dr. Garber and 
his work will be found in a biographical sketch by 
George C. Keidel, Ph.D., of the Library of Con- 
gress, Washington, published in 1914. The Gar- 
ber property was subsequently purchased by U. 
S. Senator M. S. Quay, and greatly improved for 



use as a summer residence for himself and family. 
After his death, it was acquired by the present 
owner, a resident of Lancaster. 

Picturesque and Historic Locality 

From points of vantage on the highway west of 
MountviUe there are extensive and entrancing 
views of the Susquehanna river, the first to be 
seen on this trip, though our road has been its 
watershed since about Malvern. Glancing north- 
west, to the north of Columbia borough, one will 
notice ridges of considerable height, and cliffs of 
white sandstone, apparently crowded to the 
water's edge by the hills back of them. These 
cliffs suggest the palisades of the Hudson, except 
that thev are much greater in extent, and present 
no regular front for any distance. 

C^olumbia lies at the foot of a sloping bank, 
whose grade is scarcely noticed by the motorist of 
today, and long since overcome by the railroad 
engineers. But when the first railway was built 
eastward from here about 1833 or '34, it was con- 
nected with the basin of the Pennsylvania Canal 




ioafltsiStei.: 




^^wm^^^^^0^_ 




Pen drawinii Irom an old print 

PRIMITIVE SUSQUEHANNA RIVER CROSSING 

Bffore any bridge was erected at Columbia, crossing was by raft, row- 
boat or canoe. The picture shows a raft in the stream 



45 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




I'Ai: I Ol HKIDCl:. Al.KOSS HIE SUSQUEHANNA AT COLUM- 
BIA, AFTER CVCIONE, SEPTEMBER. |xo„ 



by an inclined plaiu- ISOO (uvt in kngtii anil riach- 
ing a total heicht of 90 feet. 1 hat device was 
abandoned in 1840. Cilancinp; at the river above 
and below, the locality selected for the ancient 
ferry, and afterward adopted for the various 
bridges, seems to be the only spot in the ntigh- 
borhood where a suitable approach could be 
found on two opposite sides. 

At the outskirts of (."^'lunihia, the trollev turns 
off to the left, but the highway continues straight 
ahead, crossing a branch of the Philadelphia & 
Reading R. R.. and immediately rising into 
Lancaster Ave., which is followed to its end at 
Fifth and Locust streets. On the right at this 
point is a small park, and in the angle on the left 
a stone watering trough erected to commemorate 
the centennial of the laying out of the place. The 
figures "1788-1888" may be read from the mo\ ing 
car. 

Turning left from Lancaster Ave., the route 
continues along Locust St. to Third St., identi- 
fied by the Opera House with clock tower in the 
near left-hand corner, at the business center. 
Columbia is an enterprising and prosperous bor- 
ough, though it has never achieved the import- 
ance promised in the olden days, and has been 
passed in population by Harrisburg, Wilkes- 
Barre and Williamsport, located farther up the 
Susquehanna. 

Brief .Sketch oi- Columbia and Wrightsville 

As early as 1727, three enterprising English 
Quakers, from Chester County on the Delaware 
river, among them John \\ right, whose name ap- 
pears more often than any other in the history of 
this section, came on horseback along the Indian 
trail through the wilderness to the Susijuehanna. 
clearing some lands on the east side of the river, 
on or near the sight of the modern borough. The 
only inhabitants of the locality at that time were 
a small tribe of Inilian siiuatters, who remained 
for some years after the (Juakers began to arrive; 
and then passed out ol existence with the Sus- 
(juehannocks. 

Lite on this farthest frontier was then extremely 
primitive. Flour for the first season's use had to 



be brought from the Darby mills near Philadel- 
phia; and the only provisions, except those raised 
with infinite labor in the new country itself, came 
from the older settlements on the Delaware or 
the Schuslkill. Notwithstanding this, and the 
lack of roads, emigration increased until in 1730, 
it was estimated that a thousand people, mostly 
Quakers from the eastern fringe of the colony, 
had made their homes in the narrow belt of fertile 
country along the Susquehanna north and imme- 
diately northwest of the W right's settlement. 

1 his growth in population and eagerness of the 
early inhabitants to take up the extensive free 
lands west of the river soon led to a demand for a 
means of crossing at this point. As early as 17.K), 
John Wright procured a patent for a ferry which, 
with its successors, served the growing require- 
ments of travel and transportation here for the 
greater part of a century. On August 19, 1749, 
that p;irt of the original Lancaster County west 
of the Susquehanna was divided off ;ind made 
into \'ork County. A consideriible number of 
the horses and wagons secured by Benjamin 
i'ranklin tor the Braddock campaign of 17.vS 
were secured on the farther side of the river. 

Early Developments oe Phis Section 

Several factors led to fairly rapid development 
of the section from Lancaster to and across the 
Susquehanna into the district of which ^'ork is 
the center. 1 he temporary setback to emigra- 
tion and travel to the west as the result of Brad- 
dock's defeat at the battle of the Monongahela 
in July, 1755, was largely overcome by the suc- 
cessful campaign against Fort DuQuesne by (Gen- 
eral Forbes in 175S. But the hostility of the re- 
m:iimng Indian inhabitants of the Ohio country 
led m;iny pioneers of that period to continue on 
the direct route from Lancaster to the Sus(|ue- 
hanna, crossing that river at the present site of 
Columbia, and thence on to York. 1 here, in- 
stead of following the direct route through what 
is now Gettysburg and Chamhersburg to Pitts- 
burgh, they turned southwest to the Potomac, 
continuing down the Shenandoah valley and en- 
tering Kentucky over the \\ ilderness Road. 

During the Revolution, the district west of the 
Sus(]uehanna was sufficiently removed from the 
zone of operations of the British forces to pursue 
its development in relative peace and security. 
It was not, however, tree from Tory influences. 
Over the highway from York east to Columbui 
and L;incaster often passed wagons loadeil with 
Hour, pork and other provisions purchased in the 
intt rior In British agents diiring the occujiation 
of Phihidelphia and sent to that city. Some of 
them fell in with Col. Morgan's corps of Virginia 
riflemen, and were taken to help feed Washing- 
ton's starving regiments at Valley Forge. 

In 1788, Columbia was laid out by Samuel 
Wright, grandson of the founder, John Wright, 
est;iblished as a town and given its present name. 
I his w as one of the sites considered by Congress 
in 1789-'90 for permanent c;ipital of the United 
States. A great deal of early tr;ivel from Phila- 



46 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



delphia to Washington went by the way of Lan- 
caster, Columbia, York and Baltimore or Fred- 
erick. In June, 1800, President John Adams 
made the trip to the new National Capital this 
way; and on more than one occasion Daniel Web- 
ster passed through with his bright yellow carriage 
driven by a negro coachman. 

Lancaster and York were great distilling centers 
on this route in the early days, corn whiskey being 
the principal output. The product of the distil- 
leries at Lancaster went mostly to Philadelphia, 
while that from York was marketed chiefly in 
Baltimore. The tolls over the turnpikes added 
to the expense of the spirits at destination, al- 
though they were sold at remarkably low prices 
at both terminals. Both Lancaster and York 
were strongholds of federalism in the first vears of 
the Republic. 

Evolution ok an Important Crossing 

From Locust and 1 bird streets, Columbia, the 
route turns right on Ihird St. to Chestnut St., 
left on Chestnut St. one square to Second St., 
jogging right and then left on Second St. to enter 
Bridge St. The many railroad tracks and exten- 
sive yards just before reaching the bridge indicate 
the present importance of this place as a trans- 
portation center. Shortly after passing the rail- 
road station, on the left, the motorist is halted 
and informed whether or not the way is clear to 
cross in safety. 

This open steel-work bridge, a mile and an 
eighth long, is owned by the Pennsylvania rail- 
road, and used for both rail and highway traffic. 
Automobiles and trains are dispatched by the 
same system. The railroad tracks are in the 



center, and a narrow surface on each side of them 
is used for road traffic. On the way over, some 
interesting views of the river are had through the 
open-work of the bridge. 

1 he toll charged is 20 cents for the car and 
three cents tor each passenger, which seems reas- 
onable, though complaints have at times been 
made. It is a question whether highway tolls 
alone would support the long and expensive 
bridge required at this point; moreover, in case of 
damage to the present structure, the railroad 
company, and not the towns on either side, would 
be obliged to put it in shape for traffic. 

The movement for a bridge on the site of John 
Wright's old ferry dates back to the turnpike 
building era. Travel and transportation over 
the routes centering here had become t)f too great 
volume to be restricted to the limited facilities of 
a ferry, stopped by ice during several months of 
the year. On March 28, 1809, before either ca- 
nals or railroads were more than dimly forseen. 
the State legislature passed an act incorporating 
a company for the purpose of bridging the Sus- 
quehanna. 

Stephen Girard, the Philadelphia merchant, 
and probably the wealthiest man in the country 
at that time, was one of the incorporators; an- 
other was Abraham Winner, who a few years be- 
fore built the bridge still standing over Conestoga 
creek just east of Lancaster. The act was ap- 
proved by Gov. Snyder of Pennsylvania, and 
commissioners were appointed to receive sub- 
scriptions to the authorized capital of ?400,000. 

It was a large undertaking for those days, both 
from an engineering and financial standpoint; 
and the public hesitated at the risks involved. 




Pboto by Richards &" Eckman, Columbia 

RAILROAD AND HICHWA\' BRIDGE ACROSS THE SUSQUEHANNA RIVER, COLUMBIA, PA. 

This IS by far the longest bridge on the PhiLldelphia-Pittsburgh route, and the only one where toll is now charged. View from west side of 
river, a short distance below WrightsvIIIe. Columbia may be seen on the east bank, upper right-hand corner of picture. In the middle fore- 
ground are tlir trades of the Northern Central division. Pennsylvania R. R. 



47 



Maps in Sequence---Pittsburgh to Philadelphia 

(Ri-uding across the Iwo uppusite pages). 




THROUGH A CROUP OF iNDUSTRIAl. SUBURBS INTO PITTSBURGH 

No. I ri"i<linK IVoin West {<> East, (»r No. I(> readinK from East to West 






3 V>^ m ■, 




.^CROSSTHETWO MOST WESTERLY MOUNTAIN RANGES ON THIS TRIP 
No. 3 rcadinn from West to East, oi , No. U reading from East to West 






g^ . 



" S'r.helisbiiri; j^^% '''" 



. - -V ' ; ' - ; ,'' 

■ '- Wolfsbure, 



-r 




BEDFORD WEST. ACROSS THE MAIN ALLEGHANY RANGE 

No. S rcatlinR from West to East, or No. 12 rt-atlinn Irocn East to West 




THE FIRST STEEP GRADES WESTBOUND : PRELUDE TO THE MAIN ALLEGHANY RANGE 
No. 7 ri'iulinn from West lu East, or No. 10 reading from East to Wt-st 



48 



Traveling cast, the maps on these 4 pages make a complete and consecutive series — from left to right, down the page, like type. Westbound they 
read from right to left (a disadvantage inherent in reading any map in that direction), and up the page. 



Bushy Run Baf-Hcfield 



Westmoreland 
City 



Jeannette 




SECTION THROUGH GREENSBURG: A GREAT COAL-PRODUCING AREA 
No. 2 reading fri>ni West to East, or No. I 5 reading from East to West 




Dense forests, 

and farm lands. 



is\ ^\^^J^ ^ Buckstown 




STHX IN THE MOUNTAINS SLOPING GENERALLY' WEST 
No. 4 reading from West to East, or No. 13 reading from East to West 




HarHey -^\e 

^ ^\ Ouames "X S-' 

(Hon Jos C Thmff^^L~- 



MOSTLY ALONG THE RAYSTOWN BRANCH. JUNIATA RIVER 
No. reading from West to East, or No. I 1 reading from East to West 




SECTION ACROSS THE CUMBERLAND VALLEY. THROUGH CHAMBERSBURG 

No. 8 reading from West to East, or No. 9 reading from East to West 

49 



Maps in Sequence---Pittsburgh to Philadelphia 

'RcadinK across the two opposite pages). 



'Hop EST RESERVt 



■'^t.i'- 






Caledonia 

F'ar-k 





ircit 
'one bridge 

To Hanover 



|GETTYSBURG\ 

see special map 



GETTYSBURG WEST THROUGH THE CASHTOWN PASS OF SOUTH MOUNTAIN 

No. ^t rt-iicIinK frnin Wt-st u> East, or No. H ri.'jiciing from East to West 




Hellam 

--- -O 






Tb.Cojumbta -y 



9 S'fe c/frenk/in B-es3.Sepf l777Jvne'77S 
" '^retmgpuct ofContinanrfl Conortss. 

Jepr 30.l7J7'June27,i 178 



Stonybrook 



Scale of mites 



WFST SIDE. SUSQUEHANNA VALLEY: SECTION THROUGH YORK 

N«. I 1 rt:Klinn from Wt-st to Enst. «»r No. o rtaJint; frcmi East t(. Wist 




MOSTLY THROUGH EASTERN LANCASTER COUNTY 
No. 13 rcatlinn from Wcsi to East, or No. 4 reading from Ea^it to West 







THROUGH THE MIDDI.E-DIS lANCE SUBURBS 
No. I S riaclinK from Wist to East, or No. 2 riading from East to West 

50 



"raveling east, the maps on these 4 pages make a complete and consecutive series— from left to right, down the page, like type. Westbound, they 
"ad from right to left (a disadvantage inherent in reading any map in that direction), and up the page 




MIDDLE SECTION BETWEEN YORK AND GETTYSBURG 

No. 10 reading from West to East, i>r N<^». 7 reading from East to West 



Maristta Juncf 


\LonqP^rk\p>ll>trvllm. /T-C' A 


CHD 


ol< \ - - BBSe Washington 
^ \ \ > \;\B Borough 


C°^ LANCASTER |*. \ ^t"^ 

•^r' \\f\ III - 5-.i.-^K-(i.. 


1 Hl#\ ° ■ ' 



THROUGH LANCASTER, TO AND ACROSS THE SUSQUEHANNA AT COLUMBIA 

No. 12 reading from West to East, or No. 5 reading from East to West 



Throu s h COATESVILL E 




, ,,».Siijfc, :3 



.'«.« 



>r?!#'^ 5(§'™:^'c Whitfbrd 



Eastv 



v:",-.-1'i«^> y" Thorndalv Downingtown^^^owninjtown^;:--;;^^ 






Scale of miles 



-7— -— r:T^>.^__>..,-r as ' -Ff 5;,,, 

' bui/nn/eoi - ^>'4. '«,-' "^^ 



THROUGH DOWNINGTOWN AND COATESVILLE. THE ■'BRANDYWINE" SECTION 

No. 14 reading Troni West to East, or No. 3 reading from East to West 




PHILADELPHIA 

For details see separate map 



^ 



CilyHail 




OUT OF PHILADELPHIA, AND THROUGH THE FIRST "MAIN LINE" SUBURBS 

No. 16 reading from West to East, or No. 1 reading from East to West 



51 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



In Novemher, 1811, however, sufficient subscrip- 
tions had been secured to justify the j^overnor in 
creatuiK the corporation; the follouinfi iiicmth the 
stockholders met and elected jolm \\ right presi- 
dent. By way of assisting so great a work, the 
State voted a subsidy of 5^90,000, one-half paya- 
ble on completion of the abutments, and the bal- 
ance when the bridge was open to traffic. 

Three Structures Demolished on This Site 

Work on the first bridge was started under a 
contract dated July 8. 1812, and completed in 
1814. at a cost of J5233,00(). After carrying the 
increasing traffic for about eighteen years, the 
original structure was carried away by an ice 
freshet in the winter of 1832; and was subse- 
quently rebuilt on the same understructure at a 
cost of 5^157,030. Ibis second bridge histed until 
June 28, 1863, when it was burned to prevent the 
Confederate forces from crossing, :is will be re- 
ferred to more specifically in a hiter p;iragraph. 

On account of the losses already incurred by 
private companies in the attempt to bridge rbe 
river here, and the difficulty of raising new capital 
during a critical stage of the war between the 
States, a ferry was re-established to accommodate 
as best it could the traffic at this point. It is an 
interesting fact that the successor to this emer- 
gency war-time terry is still carrying some traffic 
which does not care to pay the rates ch;iige(l by 
the bridge company. 1 he tourist happening to 
catch a view of this old ferry, will have a fair idea 
of the principal means of transportation between 
Columbia and Wrightsville a half century or more 
ago. 




I'bulo li\ J. I\. j\lttler, Maylown 
VIEW IMMKDIAIUIA NORTH OF COLUMBIA. PA. 

Showinc rcnui'ins of tl»c IVnnsvIvanIa Canal, now ahancloni-cl. thi* rail- 
way, which replaced it as the means of lrans()c>rtati<m through this sec- 
tion, and Chieki' — ■ . ^ 
distance 



Koeks, overlooking the Susquehannjt river in the 



In time the company owning the piers and 
abutments sold then., and the franchise, to the 
l*ennsylvani;i Railroad Co.. which later rebuilt 
the structure. .Misfortune seemed to follow the 
effort to make a permanent crossing here, as the 
first railroad bridge was carried away by a cyclone 
somewhat over twenty years ago. Having now- 
become a vital link in a great railway system, the 
Pennsylvania as soon as possible thereafter built 
the present structure, the first one of iron, the 
three previous bridges having been of wood. 

During the canal era, a tow-path on the side of 
the old bridges provided a way for teams to walk 
across the Susquehanna, towing canal boats from 
the Pennsylvania Canal on the Columbia side to 
the 1 idewater Canal on the York County side. 
1 his plan for connecting two canal systems across 
a great, w ide river w as in successful operation for 
a number of years; but of course was given up 
when the canals were sold by the State and their 
business di\ided between the railrcKid ;iinl the 
highw ay. 

Some Interesting Later IIistor'S' 

Columbia was the eastern terminus of the old- 
time interior canal system of Pennsylvania. Here 
jiassengers and freight were transferred to and 
from boats and the railroad coaches of that period. 
In 1S36 through travel and transportation were 
provided between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh 
over this unique combination route, which useil a 
primitive railwav from Philadelphia to Columbia, 
the Penns\ lv:inia Canal from thence to the east- 
ern base of the mountains, the .'\lleghany Portage 
R. R. across the summit, and another canal the 
balance of the way into and down the Allegheny 
river to I'ittsburgh. 

For many years, this old river town was a busy 
interior marine port, and had extensive com- 
merce, especially with the lumber-producing re- 
gions on the upper Sus<]uehanna river in Penn- 
sylvania and New York State, whose product 
was mostly carried down past Harrisburg, Mari- 
etta and Columbia to Havre de Grace and Haiti- 
more. After this trade vanished, and Columbia 
bec;ime a way point instead of the terminal 
ami traffic-exchange of the olden time, its energies 
;iinl activities were turned to diversified m;inufac- 
ture, in which the locality has been notably suc- 
cessful, as evidenced by the furnaces, rolling mills 
ami other establishments in operation there now. 

I bis part of the river was once noted for its 
shad fisheries. Large numbers of shad came up 
from the ocean through Chesapeake bay into the 
Sus(|iiehanna to spawn, m;iking an extensive and 
profitable business of catching and shiiiping them 
to PhiLidelphia and other markets. But the 
building, several years ago, of the large power- 
plant at McCall's Ferry, farther down the river, 
made it impossible fiir the shad to come up be- 
\'ond th;it point. 

Colunibi;i was one of the most imjiortanr "st:i- 
tions" on the "underground railroad" tor escap- 
ing slaves between the South ;ind Canada; and on 



52 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Phulo /.J J, K M,IU,. .\/,i, 'mm. Pa. 
VIEW OF THE COUNTRY IMMEDIATELY NORTH AND NORTHWEST OF COLUMBIA. PA. 

Taken from one of the many hillsides bordering the Susquehanna on this part of the route. In the extreme left ofthe picture is a bit 
olthat historic river; to the right of it an iron furnace, of which there arc many in this region, can be seen. The surrounding country 
is divided into many well-kept and prosperous farms 



account of its nearness to the Mason-Dixon 
Line, southern officers frequently went through 
this section in search of their property. I he hrst 
return of a slave to his master under the Fugitive 
Slave law is said to have occurred here in the tall 
of 18.S0. Thaddeus Stevens, the great commoner, 
then residing at Lancaster, was active in prevent- 
ing the return of runaway slaves, and on more 
than one occasion gave his services free in the de- 
fense of them and sympathetic parties harhoring 
them. Thi' Spy, Columbia, is one of the oldest 
and most influential newspapers in any small in- 
terior point in Pennsylvania; about 1830, Edgar 
Allen Poe was one of its contributors. 

After crossing the long bridge, and stopping to 
pay toll on the western end, the tourist continues 
straight ahead over the railroad tracks which run 
alongside the west bank of the Susquehanna in 
this vicinity, and begins a slight ascent into 
Wrightsville. It is worth while to stop midway 
up this grade for the view across the river back 
toward Columbia, which extends for a considerable 
distance along the eastern side of the river, and 
presents a very attractive sight. If one cares to 
stop nearer the bridge exit and travel a short dis- 
tance south along the river road, some interesting 
remains of the old Tidewater Canal may be seen. 
Ihe Pennsylvania Canal was altogether on the 
east side, and is seen no more on this trip. 

Now, more than heretofore in traveling this 
route, the motorist is conscious of speeding tow- 
ard the west. Up to this time all the streams 
crossed have drained into the Delaware, the 
Schuylkill or the Susquehanna; but from now on 
rhey will drain into the Potomac, not far distant 
to the south on the next stage of this trip, or into 
streams which by long and circuitous courses flow- 
ultimately into the Ohio, the Mississippi and the 
Gulf of Mexico. One begins to miss the old tav- 



erns, which have been fretjuent since leaving the 
outskirts of Philadelphia; from now on these will 
be few and far between, the greater number of the 
remaining old inns on the way to Pittsburgh being 
ft)und in the mouiit;iin sections beyond Cham- 
bersburg. 

Entering the "Debatable Ground" 

A new and highly interesting feature is added 
to the route from the west side of the Susque- 
hanna through York and Gettysburg to Cham- 
bersburg from the fact that it traverses a section 
crossed and recrossed by the contending forces 
of blue and gray during the civil war. While 
these movements culminated at the Gettysburg 
battlefield, through the very midst of which we 
are shortly to pass, there are other points of only 
relatively lesser interest, due to the fact that they 
were on some part of the routes followed by the 
Confederate forces in their invasion of the North 
in the summer of 1863. 

Evidences of that great campaign begin to be 
seen at Wrightsville, and do not come to an end 
until this route enters the Alleghanies west of the 
zone of operations during 1861-'6S. A brief gen- 
eral summary of the principal events will prove 
useful to the tourist who desires to understand 
the movements of both forces, and to identify 
the points of interest on or nearby this route more 
or less closely related to them. 

At the battle of Chancellorsville, May, 1863, 
the Federal army under Hooker failed to achieve 
its main purpose, and left the advantage with 
Lee, who had waged that conflict with smaller 
forces but with greater skill. The fortunes of the 
Confederacy were then at their highest tide, while 
the North was passing through a corresponding 
period of depression. Lee seized upon this occa- 
sion for an invasion of Maryland and Pennsylva- 



53 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



nia. employinR for that purpose between 70,0Uf) 
and SO,(XX) veterans of the late N'irginia cam- 
paigns, the largest and most efficient army ever 
assemliled under the southern Hag. 

i hree corps of three divisions each, under the 
command of Longstreet. Kwell and A. P. Hill, 
were moved north of the Potomac with fair pros- 
pects of capturing Harrishurg, Philadelphia, Bal- 
timore and even \\'ashington. On June 27, 1863, 
the first encampment on northern soil was made 
near Chamhersluirg, which threatened Harris- 
burg by the short route through the Cumberland 
valley. Kwell's forces occupied Carlisle and 
York, enforcing heavy contrilnitions in cash, 
clothing and provisions, while they seized the 
crops and cattle on the farms along their lines of 
march, offering payment in Confederate paper. 

TuRNKD Back at thk Susquehanna 

On June 15th, President Lincoln had hurriedl\ 
called for lOO.CXM) militia from Pennsylvania. 
.Maryland, West X'irginia and Ohio to repel an- 
ticipated attacks at widely scattered points 
threatened by the invasion, thereby leaving the 
Army of the Potomac more free to deal in lidl force 
with the Army of Northern Virginia. Hasty de- 
fenses were thrown up along the general hne of 
the Susquehanna, west of that river from Harris- 
burg south; and the quickly raised milina levies 
somewhat checked the forces ot the Confederacy. 

Ewell was approaching Harrishurg, creating 
widespread panic, but encountering no organized 
opposition. Early's division of his corps had 
passed through ^'ork to the western bank of the 
Susquehanna at Wrightsville; but was prevented 
from crossing bv the State troops, who on Sunday, 
lime 2Sth, after the people ol adjacent sections 
of \ ork Countv had brought then- horses, cattle 
and as manv provisions as possible to the Lan- 
caster County side, to prevent them from falling 
into the hands of the Confederates, burned the 
long covered bridge there. 

Sweeping along from span to span, the Hre 
soon transformed the whole structure into a mass 
of flame. Blazing tmihers hissed as they dropped 
into the stream and floated toward the dam. I he 
southern soldiers, whose onward progress was now 
stopped, lined the banks of the river and swarmed 
over the adjacent hills, interested spectators of 
the unexpected scene. Men, women and children 
crowded the eastern bank, almost spell-bound as 
the fire dashed fantastic colors on sky and water. 

It was anticipateil that Columbia would be 
shelled bv the Confederate forces, which caused a 
partial panic and stampede; but th;it did not take 
place, the amunition of the invaders being re- 
served for much more important uses. The diffi 
culty of crossing so wide a stream, now without 
any bridge nearer than Harrishurg, with a force 
large enough to overawe the intermediate country 
and capture some ot the leading cities east of the 
Susquehanna, and the probability that the two 
main armies, commanded by .Meade and Lee, 
would meet within a few da\s in perhaps the de- 
cisive contest of the war, led the Conlederates to 



(juickly withdraw all their forces from this vicinity. 
Could these develojjments have been foreseen, 
the bridge, which was last one under private own- 
ership at this point, would probably not have 
been burned. Never again did the stars and bars 
w;ive as far north or east. Columbia, Lancaster 
and Philadelphia were safe from further attack, 
and soon the principal scenes of conflict were 
shifted back to the (jettysburg battlefield and 
across the Potomac to \'irginia. A brief reminder 
of these events is a tablet between two cannon 
alongside the highway in the center of Wrights- 
ville, which reads as follows: 

These guns, presented by the United 
States government, mark Wrightsville 
as the farthest point reached by the Con- 
federate forces, June 28, 186.\ during 
the Civil War. 

The great conflict of 1861-'65 came close to but 
did not cross the Susquehanna, (itadually rising 
from the broad, placid, majestic river, the route 
becomes a straightaway from \\ rightsville through 
a fertile and attractive farming countrv, whose 
principal staple seems to be tobacco. I he inter- 
urban trolley is followed through the sm;ill village 
ot llellam, where two or three substantial old 
buildings attract passing attention. .At the next 
small town. Stony Brook, the highway crosses the 
Northern Central R. R. and passes a number of 
fine residences on its way through East Market 
St. to the Square, center of York. 



IN TOR'.-PEf'NSYLV/'.NlA 
FEMBEK 50.1777-JVNE 27.17; 
INC THE OCCvPATIOr' Oh PHIlAliclL. ' ! A 

EY THE BRmS;: ARMY 
(Slews KERE lELD IN TML COVJn ilG--^ 
E WERE ADOPTEP TUt AK I Ki HS '.^ 
CONFEDERATION 

Of VL 

COLONIES 



"s^ 



m\ 



IIISIUKU.AL lAIU.m ON S.MALL UUILUINO l.N NUKlll- 
EASTF.RN ANGLE OF CENTER SQUARE. 10RK. PA. 



54 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 

Chapter f] —York to C,eUysbur(j—29 Miles 
Through Thomasville, AbboUstoim and Neiu Oxford 



1 he tourist passing through ^ Ork even without 
stop is impressed by the prosperity reflected in the 
business establishments, the homes and general 
aspect of the place. In the background, there is 
much interesting history, particularly ot the colo- 
nial and Revolutionary periods. 

York, the first permanent town established west 
of the Susquehanna, was settled in 1731, mostly 
by Germans, but named after ^'orkshire, Eng- 
land. It was surveyed and laid out in squares in 
1741; practically no changes have since been 
made, the place growing outward in every direc- 
tion along the original lines. Though within the 
Penn grant, a considerable part of this region was 
claimed for a long time by Maryland under the 
charter rights of the Calverts. 

The issue was complicated by the fact that 
many thrilty German settlers in what is now York 
County accepted titles from Maryland to avoid 
Provincial taxes. Being afterward convinced 
that this might be injurious to their future inter- 
ests, they renounced the authority of Lord Balti- 
more, and sought protection from Pennsylvania. 
Clashes between the representatives of the two 
colonies became inevitable. 

The sheriff of Baltimore County was sent with 
300 men to eject them, and was met by the sheriff 
of Lancaster County, supported by a large party, 
who induced the Maryland force to return, after 
the Germans had promised to consult together 
and answer the requisitions of Lord Baltimore. 
Soon afterward a stronger Maryland force, under 
Captain Cresap, attempted to drive out the set- 
tlers, and killed one of the persons who resisted 
them. 1 his brought the sheriff^ of Lancaster 
County again to the scene, and after a sharp con- 
test, in which some were killed and Cresap wound- 
ed, he was taken to Philadelphia and imprisoned. 
Many of the Germans were driven from their 
homes by the Marylanders, and the whole settle- 
ment harassed. 

After a number of rioters had been taken to 
prison at Lancaster, a strong party from Mary- 
land proceeded there, broke open the jail and re- • 
leased them. In 1737, an order of the King in 
council induced both parties to refrain from fur- 
ther violence, and the boundary dispute was final- 
ly settled by more peaceful means. Bitter feel- 
ings between the factions continued, however, for 
very many years. 

Meeting Place of the Continental Congress 

York was made the county seat on the estab- 
lishment of the county in 1749, and the first court 
house was erected in Center Square in 1756, with 
no expectation of the important use to which it 



would be put a little more than twenty years later. 
But alter the colonies entered the war with Great 
Britain, their capital was moved inland. In 

1777, when Lord Howe was in possession of Phil- 
adelphia, the Continental Congress adjourned for 
one day to Lancaster and then took more perma- 
nent quarters in York, which had the advantage 
of being within comparatively easy distance of 
the coast and yet beyond range of the British 
armies. 

The westbound tourist, turning right at the 
eastern side of the square to go around the north 
side of the same, may see on the business building 
at the northeast corner of East Market St. and 
the square, the tablet reproduced on page 54, 
which gives dates and other information in better 
form than uniform type. Some of the most im- 
portant events of the Revolution during the nine 
months that the Continental Congress assembled 
here, are not mentioned on the tablet. 

At York the Congress heard the news of the 
surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga, commissioned 
LaFayette and Steuben, major-generals of the 
Revolution, rejoiced at the news from Benjamin 
Franklin, at Paris, of the "Treaty of Amity and 
Commerce" between France and the United 
States, France agreeing to send money, a fleet 
and an army to aid the patriot cause, and received 
the first installment of the money promised. 
Philip Livingston of New York, one of the signers 
of the Declaration of Independence, died here 
while attending the Continental Congress, and is 
buried in Prospect Hill Cemetery. The grave of 
James Smith, ot ^ ork, another signer of the Dec- 
laration, is in front of the Presbyterian Church on 
East Market St. 

Here the "Conway cabal," the object of which 
was to have Washington superceded by Gen. Ho- 
ratio Gates, collapsed at a banquet given to La- 
Fayette in 1778. At York, Gen. Anthony Wayne 
and "Light Horse Harry" Lee recruited their 
legions before going to Yorktown, Va., in 1781. 
After the surrender of Lord Cornwallis there, 
many of the captured British soldiers were trans- 
ferred to ^ ork and kept until peace was declared. 

While the principal old landmarks here have, 
unfortunately, been removed, care has been taken 
to identify their former locations and give vis- 
itors specific information about them. In York's 
churchyards are buried some of the most distin- 
guished men of the trans-Susquehanna section 
during the colonial and Revolutionary periods. 
The Quaker Meeting House on West Philadel- 
phia St. is one of the oldest buildings in the city. 

Running along West Market St., one may no- 
tice Trinity First Reformed Church, on the left a 



SS 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




■ Jfom York Cbamher oj Commerce 



CENTER SQUAKE, ^ ORK. PA. 



In this open space stood the York Co. Court House, where the Continental Congress met in 1777-*78. The principal routes from tlie eily 
lend straight out in the four cardinal directions from the sc|uare 



short tlistance west of the stiuarc. A talikr on 
the iron fence in front of it marks the site of the 
home of Thomas Hartley, Revolutionary soldier 
and friend of Washington, just ahead, on the 
west side of Beaver St., and on the south side of 
West Market St., is a point of unusual interest, 
hut almost sure to he passed unnoticed unless one 
is on the lookout for it. A tiihlet placed hv the 
local chapter, Daughters of the American Revo- 
lution, and set into the sidewalk in front of a phar- 
macy, reads as follows: 

In a building on this site, from Sep- 
temher, 1777, to June, 1778, the Franklin 
Press printed the Pennsylvania Gazcltt\ 
the official publication of the Continen- 
tal C.ingress, and )512,0(X),0(X) of Conti- 
nental currency. 
1 he first iron steamboat was made in York. 
Here, also, Phineas Davis built the first locomo- 
tive in America to burn anthracite coal, and won 
a prize of ^4,()(K) from the H. &; (). R. R, 'inx his 
invention. 

During the era of canal development through 
central Pennsylvania, navigation was opened be- 
tween ^'ork and the Sustjuehanna by Codorus 
creek, a brief glimpse of which will shortly be had. 
That was abandoned many years ago, and York 
is well served by railroads and highways radiating 
in the principal directions. In the olden days, as 
now, this was an important center for travel, be- 
ing not onl\- on the through route between Phila- 
delphia and Pittsburgh, but on the almost etpially 
important line from the upper and midtile Sus- 
quehanna river country to Baltimore, or to Fred- 
erick and the Shenandoah valley. 

Civil War Events at \\n<K 

Gen. Jubal A. Early entered this place on the 
morning of Sunday, June 28, 186.^, with a divis- 
ion of 10,(XXJ Confederates. He took up head- 



(]uarters in the Court House, called a public meet- 
ing and read to the large audience a retpiisition 
upon the people of York for )^100,(K)0 in U. S. 
currency and }?40,0(X) worth of flour, meat and 
clothing. 

1 he to\\n was unable to furnish the entire 
amount of readv money, but a committee ap- 
pointed raised nearly >^29,()0() toward it, anil sup- 
plied a large amount ot flour tf) each of Karlv's 
tour brigades. .At the office of Mr. Samuel Small, 
the money was handed to him in the presence of 
two persons still (1920) living in York. 

All of the papers relating to the requisition, 
covering several pages, are carefully preserved in 
the archives of the Historical Society of ^'ork 
County, which occupies a large room on the third 
floor of the Court House. N'isitors will find great 
interest in the museum and library of the Society, 
containing about 10,000 specimens, local views and 
relics, also about 3,000 books relating to Penn- 
sylvania history. Ibis library and museum were 
built up by Mr. George R. Prowell, the curator 
and librarian, after his return from twelve years 
as newspaper correspondent at W ashiiigton in 
1904. 

On the second one of the nearly two da\s Early 
remained here, he demanded that the mayor go 
with him to the carshops near the station, for the 
purpose of burning them unless the people raised 
the balance of the money. \\ bile standing near 
the shops a courier arrived from General Fwell, 
his corps commaniler, then at Carlisle, ortlering 
him to return with all possible haste to Gett\s- 
burg. (Karhs advance brigade under (lordon 
had alreads' moved farther east to Wrightsville, 
which led to the burning of the bridge there as 
noted in the references to that place). 

Just as the courier arrived, Mr. Philip Small, 
father of Samuel Small, stepped up and said, 
"General, I will give you my draft on New York 



56 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



tor the balance of the requisition, if you do not 
burn the shops, for that would start a fire which 
would destroy part of the town. We cannot now 
give you the currency, for all the bank deposits 
have been sent away." Early (after he read the 
orders from Ewell), told Mr. Small that he would 
consider his proposition the next morning. 

On two occasions in 1890, Mr. Prowell visited 
Early at his Lynchburg, Va., home. The Gen- 
eral handed the visitor from York an original 
printed copy of the address which he had intend- 
ed to circulate; but on account of his sudden re- 
call, it was never distributed. The only other 
original is now in the Library of Congress, Wash- 
ington. It may be interesting to read a verbatim 
copy of this proclamation, 57 years after it was 
prepared: 

York, Pa., June 30, 1S6.?. 
To the Cilizens of York: 

I have abstained from burning the railroad build- 
ings and carshops because after examination I am 
satisfied the safety of the town would be endangered; 
and, acting in the spirit of humanity, which has ever 
characterized my government and its military au- 
thorities, I do not desire to involve the innocent in 
the same punishment with the guilty. Had I ap- 
plied the torch without regard to consequences, I 
would have been fully vindicated as an act of just 
retaliation for many authorized acts of barbarity 
perpetrated by your own army upon our soil. But 
we do not war upon women and children, and I trust 
the treatment you have met with at the hands of my 
soldiers will open your eyes to the monstrous ini<iuity 
of the war w'aged by your government upon the peo- 
ple of the Confederate States, and that you will make 
an effort to shake off the revolting tyranny under 
which it is apparent to all you are yourselves groan- 
ing. 

J. A. EARLY, 

Major-Gencral, C. S. A. 

No permanent injury was done to York by the 
Confederate raid through this section, though of 



course the farmers, merchants and others who 
accepted southern currency in exchange for cattle, 
provisions, clothing and supplies taken by the in- 
vading forces found it valueless after the war. 
Continuing along West Market St., a broad, well- 
kept thoroughfare, the tourist crosses the Balti- 
more division. Northern Central R. R., then an 
iron bridge over Codorus creek, and comes to a 
large brick building in the angle made by Carlisle 
Ave. The latter is the beginning of a short-cut 
from this route to Carlisle and the northeastern 
section of the Cumberland V'alley. 

Just beyond the fork, the highway crosses the 
Frederick branch Northern Central, and Western 
Maryland railroads, which shortly diverge for two 
widely different routes to Hanover. Looking 
over to the right, one will notice the grounds of 
the York County Fair, one of the oldest, largest 
and best patronized in Pennsylvania. Inside the 
grounds, located in the widened angle of West 
Market St. and Carlisle Ave., is a large oval track 
used for horse racing,, and occasionally for auto- 
mobile contests. At West York, the trolley comes 
to an end. 

Westward from York 

The tourist now finally leaves behind every vis- 
ible reminder of the Revolutionary period, all of 
whose important events took place east of York's 
farther limits. The highway, fairly well out of 
the Susquehanna watershed, ascends very grad- 
ually to the higher average elevations character- 
istic of the central part of the State. About a 
mile west of the Fair Grounds is a crossing of the 
Western Maryland R. R., not easily noticed at 
speed. 

Two-and-a-half miles farther on, a prominent 
left-hand road branches off toward Hanover, an- 




Copyrighted by John S. \fundorf, Vorfe 



REMINDER OF THE CONFEDERATES 
AT YORK, PA.. IN 'e3 

Receipt given by authority of Gen. Jubal A. 
Early for part payment of contribution lev- 
ied upon th.at city by his division while en 
route to the Susquehanna. The Confederates 
operating in this section were soon reealtcd to 
participate in the battle at Gettysburg; and 
never returned for the "balance due." This 
photograph copy furnished through Mr. George 
R. Prowell, \'ork. 



57 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



other old strric-nu-nt. iind also an important point 
on the pre-Re\dlutionar\' route ot travel from 
I'hilailelphia, Lancaster, Columhia and ^"ork to 
the Potomac river and the Shenandoah valley ot 
Virginia. Much of the earliest travel and emi- 
gration probably took the short-cut from this 
point. The "Five Mile House" was a tavern 
here in stage-coach days. A sign at the point 
where this first left-hand road to Flanoveris pas.sed 
indicates 2.^ miles along the ilirect route to Ciet- 
tysburg. 

Ihe road again crosses the Western .\lar\laml 
R. R. coming into the small village ot I homas- 
ville; on the right here is one of the several remain- 
ing toll-houses, relic of a system now extinct on 
this route. ( )nc will occasionally notice old build- 
ings, undoubtedly either taverns or wagon-stands 
in stage-coach ilays, but none large or distincti\e 
as many seen east of Lancaster. One ot them, on 
the right, at the hamlet of Farmers, about 2 ! 2 
miles west of Thomasville, is identified by its sign 
as the "Ten Mile House"; by odometer it is ex- 
actly 101/2 rniles from the square at York, from 
which road measurements were made in the olden 
time in this part of the State. 

About 7 miles west of Thomasville, our route 
crosses a small bridge over Meaver creek, a tribu- 
tary of Conewago creek, the dividing line between 
'^'ork and ,'\dams counties. 1 he latter was laid 
off from the former and made a separate county 
on January 22. 18(XX a little more than a year be- 
fore the close of John Adams' term as President, 
and in all probability named after him. 

Many of the excellent farms in this section were 
settled during the great expansion era following 
the war of 1S12-14; and a few of the buildings 
date back to that period. Some of them are still 
occupied by descendants of the first owners. On 
the left, a short distance west of the inter-coimty 
bridge, is a large old stone dwelling with a tablet 
in the top, on the western end, reading as follows: 

lUiill liji -Ihilni ^i'nrl au^ 
JFrlni. hi;", hiifr. *rptrbmrr, I'Md 




Plmlii h\ CVorvc .S'. llummi-r 
A CI IMI'SU OF NEW OXIOKD, I'A. 
Taken iumx I.inc-oln Way West, lookinf; cast t)ircuit:li llu- sc|uarc 



'! his substantial buiklmg will probably be little 
changed in another hundred vears. Signs or tab- 
lets of this character are often noticed along the 
National Old 1 rails through the central and far 
West; but this is the first one observed in travel- 
ing the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh route in this di- 
rection. More of them will be seen after we enter 
the mountains. 

Through Abbottstow.n a.nd Nhw Oxford 

The next place, Abbottstown, laid out in l/.S.l 
and incorporated into a borough in 18.VS, is the 
oldest town in Adams County. Here the main 
route is crossed at right angles by the heavy-trav- 
eled connecting turnpike leading southward to 
Hanover, Westminster and Baltimore. On the 
southwest corner of the intersection stands a hotel, 
the site of which has been occupied by a public 
house over a century. 

Local travel over this route is served by auto- 
stages, which are frequent from now through the 
central and western parts of the State, supple- 
menting the meagre railway facilities along the 
e;ist-and-west line between York and Greensburg. 
1 ' 2 blocks west of the square, Abbottstown, the 
Berlin Branch R. R., a privately owned line about 
7 miles long, connecting East Berlin, north of our 
route, with the Western .Mar\land R. R. below, 
is crossed at grade. The next 2' 2 miles are over 
nearly level ground, without conspicuous land- 
marks. 

Then we cross the Baltimore and Carlisle road, 
which extends north and south in a perfectly 
straight line as far as the eye can see. On the 
southwest corner at this intersection is a very 
huge brick house, which was purchased at sheriff's 
sale in 1799 by William CJitt for his son Henry. 
The latter took possession in 1809, and opened it 
as the "Cross Keys" Hotel, identifying it, accord- 
ing to the custom of the times, by a swinging 
sign, upon which were painted two large keys 
crossed. That sign, all of which is still perfectly 
legible except the name of the old-time propri- 
etor, is in the possession of a great grand-daugh- 
ter, Mrs. Kate Himes of New Oxford. 

On the second floor is a long hall with rooms on 
both sides. 'The property, which remained in 
the (jitt famil\ for over 100 years, has long 
been a farmhouse. Probably the former "Cross 
Keys" is the best preserved old hotel structure 
on this part of the route. 

Continuing westward, we soon reach New Ox- 
ford, the largest town between York and Ciettys- 
burg. The square here is the most attractive 
and best-kept in this section, and much admired 
by tourists. Leaving New Oxford, the highway 
crosses the Western Maryland at grade; and, 
about a mile west of the town, it is carried over 
the south branch of Conewago creek by a con- 
crete bridge built in 1918 to replace an old nar- 
row, hump-backed structure. 1 ' 3-miles beyond, 
we again cross the Western Maryland, at gr;ide, 
and then Swift Run, another tributary of the 
Conewago and the last stream whose waters final- 
ly reach the Sus(iuehanna. 



iS 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



In the olden days, the section between New Ox- 
ford and Gettvsbuip: was well supplied with ho- 
tels; and two ot the buildings are still standing. 
At Gulden's station, a short 5 miles from New Ox- 
ford, the Western Maryland is crossed again. 
Probably by this time, one's pulse is quickened 
by the consciousness of nearing Gettysburg, the 
next important point ahead. 

Throughout the 35 miles or so traveled since 
leaving the west bank of the Susquehanna at 
Wrightsville, opposite Columbia, this route has 
been without any visible evidences that the coun- 
try It traverses was within the sphere of military 
operations during the midsummer of 1863. As 
far as appearances go with the fast-traveling mo- 
torist, this part of the trip might be in a different 
zone. But a change in that respect is about to 
come with almost dramatic suddenness. 

First Glimpses of Gettysburg 

Looking ahead from the downgrade by which 
Gettysburg is approached from the east, the tour- 
ist observes the outlines of what would seem to 
be an ordinary inland Pennsylvania town of some- 
what under 5,000, except for two verv marked 
features, its road system and the peculiar topo- 
graphy immediately south of it. Four basic high- 
ways or pikes lead straight outward from the square 
at the center, while others diverge at well-defined 
angles a short distance from it, and extend in all 
the principal directions. The street system of 
the town resembles a great checker-board of ir- 
regular shape, from all sides and ends of which 
long straight lines have been drawn far outward. 
Gettysburg is possibly the greatest road center of 
its size in the United States, a fact made all the 
more conspicuous by its location off from main 
lines of railway travel. 

No physical features along the route we have 
been following attract particular attention; nor 
are any observed to the north of it. Glancing 
ahead — over the top of Gettysburg — this high- 
way, as it starts toward South Mountain and 
Chambersburg, appears like a narrow white band 
or streamer laid down carefully upon and drawn 
tightly across the rolling landscape whose minor 
details are gradually observed in the distant hori- 
zon. A totally different scene is presented only 
a short distance south of where our route is soon 
to pass through the town. 

I he essential, most striking features of the lo- 
cality are seen while approaching Gettysburg 
from this direction, perhaps three or four miles 
before reaching the lower levels upon which it is 
situated. South of the town (and the highway), 
there begin to rise almost at once a series or group 
of bluffs and hillocks, which command the sur- 
rounding country for observation purposes, and 
make defenses of great natural strength. Trend- 
ing at first almost due north-and-south, just west 
of them, is Seminary Ridge, the nearest of several 
minor ranges forming an intermediate stage be- 
tween the rolling highlands which extend west- 
ward from the Susquehanna to this section, and 
the steeper grades a few miles farther west. 




Pholo fty Ccorfit: S. Hummer 
CONCRETE BRIDGE OVER SOUTH BRANCH. CONEWAGO 
CREEK. WEST OF NEW OXFORD, PA. 

Farther down, however, Seminary Ridge is 
drawn slightly eastward in a way to form a rough 
curve, resembling a bended wrist. Just east of 
that curve, and protected by it on the west, is 
Big Round Top, a rocky, wooded peak, of which 
Little Round lop, a trifle farther north, is a spur. 
This unusual bit of topography has been com- 
pared by several writers to a fish-hook, whereon 
Gulp's Hill rises as a barb along the back ot Cem- 
etery Hill, while Cemetery Ridge forms the shank, 
terminating, east of the curve, in the big and little 
"round tops." Fhese topographical features and 
the highways are keys to a correct understanding 
of the military movements leading up to the bat- 
tle of Gettysburg, and the conflict itself. 

Reference Books, Maps and Guides 

Tourists running toward Gettysburg, and stop- 
ping overnight in a city or town en route with 
even a fair library will find it advantageous to re- 
fresh their memories by examining pages 226-246 
of Rhodes' "History of the Civil War (1917)," 
or pages 354-369 of Schouler's "History of the 
United States," Vol. 6, both of which go into con- 
siderable details. For a short, clear exposition, 
consult pages 136-141 of Theodore Dodge's com- 
pact "Bird's-Eye View of the Civil War," stu- 
dent's edition. 

The "Story of the Civil War," by John C. 
Ropes, continued by Col. W. R. Livermore, in 4 
volumes (the last one of which. Book 2 of Part 3, 
includes the Gettysburg campaign), is complete, 
well arranged and minutely indexed. Its numer- 
ous maps are admirable, and its critical comments 
useful to the close student, though the detail is 
too great for the limited time of the average 
t(;urist. 

Anyone who may care to study the topography 
with stil! greater care may order in advance from 
Washington the Gettysburg and Fairfield sheets 
of the U. S. Geological Survey. The street map 
on pages 60-61, in connection with the special one 
of the battlefield on page 63, may prove sufficient 
for ordinary use when passing through with only 
a brief stop. For complete details, with an abun- 



59 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



dance tA maps, it woiilil still he necessary to refer 
to the Official Records, the munificent provision 
of the Ciovernment for historical investigators and 
close students of this and related subjects. 

1 he motorist enterinf; the hattletield area from 
any of the principal directions is likely to he met 
by one or more guides who solicit the opportunitN 
to show the party about the town and battletiekl. 
Especially when time is short, it may be advan- 
tageous to employ one of them, agreeing in ad- 
vance as to the route of observation, time to he 
spent, fees and the like. Paragraph 2(>. Regula- 
tions for the National Military Parks, provides 
that, "No persons shall be permitted to offer their 
services or act as guides unless licensed for that 
purpose by the Commissioners thereof." ,'\ll ap- 
plicants are examined by the Commission, and 
must make an average of 75% in order to secure 
a license. 

Last SiRi-rtu Into Gettysblrc; 

One has hardly more than time to catch tin- 
general situation at a distance before noticing, on 
the left, the first historic marker in this locality. 
1 hough the battlefield is still a considerable tlis- 
tance ahead, its related activities extended this 
far eastward along the York Pike. A wide up- 
right piece of granite, with a metal tablet facing 



the road, indicates the location of Camp Letter- 
man, the general field hospital. Medical Corps, 
Army of the Potomac, during the battle. 

It was named after Jonathan Letterman, Med- 
ical Director of that army, and was situated in 
the "hospital woods," just outside the zone of 
militarv operations. I he woods have disap- 
peareil, and the country here is now entirely open. 
I his hospital, in co-operation with seven subor- 
tlinate ones for infantry and one for cavalry, cared 
for about 20,000 Union and Confederate officers, 
soldiers and cavalrymen during and after the 
battle. 

1 he motorist stopping to read the tablet will 
obtain a concrete idea of the total casualties be- 
fore reaching the central section, just south of 
which the principal fighting took place. A short 
distance beyond, the Western Maryland comes 
close to the right-hand side of the road, and con- 
tinues nearly parallel to the business center. 
During the war this was the only railroad to enter 
(iettysburg; it was then known as the Clertysburg 
& Hanover, and did not go farther west. The 
present name was given to it when a through 
route was developed from ^Ork and (Iettysburg 
to Hagerstown, connecting with the original line 
from Baltimore. 

Entering Gettysburg, one crosses Rock Creek, 



Through 




I-OR THE SECTION SOUTH OF THE THROUGH ROUTE AT GETTYS- 
(.0 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Howing southward past the eastern edge of the 
town, to form the general eastern boundary of the 
battlefield. This stream flows mtt) the Mono- 
cacy, and that into the Potomac above Harpers 
Ferry. We are now, and shall be until beyond 
Chambersburg, in the watershed of that river. 
On the opposite side of the Gettysburg High 
School, prominently on our left, the Hanover 
Road comes mto \ ork St., a short run along which 
brings one to the eastern side of the square, Get- 
tysburg. 

Briefs About the Town and Locality 

Previous to 1863, Gettysburg was known princi- 
pally as the "County Town," located in a fertile 
agricultural country, settled by thrifty people 
from the older counties in the eastern part of the 
State, with considerable numbers from Ireland, 
Scotland, England and Germany. After more 
than 50 years since the place itself has been al- 
most eclipsed by the battlefield whose name it 
took, one examines with curious interest the "Ge- 
ography of Pennsylvania," (Philadelphia, 1843), 
to find Gettysburg given scarcely more mention 
than New O.xford or Hanover. Its population 
was then about 2,000; and the only buildings 
noted were the Adams Co. Court House, Penn- 
sylvania College and Lutheran Theological Sem- 



inary. 

A comprehensive system of turnpikes had been 
developed, however, the results of which are read- 
ily seen today. A project had also been under- 
taken to extend the Philadelphia & Columbia 
R. R., then in operation between those points, 
through York and Gettysburg, to the partly fin- 
ished C. & O. Canal near Williamsport, Mary- 
land, and also to the B. &: 0. R. R. at Martins- 
burg, then in Virginia, now West Virginia. Sub- 
sequently that route was divided between the 
Western Maryland and Cumberland Valley rail- 
roads, connecting this section with Hagerstown 
and the Shenandoah valley. 

Sixty or more years ago, Gettysburg was a con- 
siderable manufacturing center for the time, while 
its location near extensive forests of oak, hickory, 
pine, ash and poplar developed a large lumber 
industry, now almost a thing of the past. Many 
Conestoga wagons, patterned after the staunch 
vehicles originated a short distance south of this 
route through Lancaster County, were built in 
this or surrounding villages. 

It is said that whereas most of those from the 
Conestoga country went to Pittsburgh or beyond 
the Ohio river, those manufactured in Gettysburg 
found their principal sale in Maryland and Vir- 
ginia. The earliest commercial affiliations of this 



GETTYSBURG 




BURG, SEE SEPARATE MAP OF THE BATTLEFIELD. PAGE 63 

61 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




PLulo jtum titity^ltuifi i\ulionai I'ut k Cuinmission 

lABltr ON SITE OF GENERAL FIELD HOSPITAL 

First marker (l_^-milcs before reaching Center Square) seen by the 
westbound tourist running into Gettysburg from York. On the tabh-l 
is a Mst of the field hospitals of the eight corps participating in the three 
(lay's fight 

section were with points simth r;irlnr rluiii with 
those west, somewhat because most of the first 
travel and emigration from Philadelphia, Lan- 
caster and Columbia passed on to the Cumber- 
land vallev and the western parts of the State 
through what is now Harrisburg, instead ot 
through here. 

(lettysburg is located tarthei- south tli^iii the 
Hrst-time visitor is likely to imagine. The Mary- 
land boundary, coinciding there with the Mason 
and Dixon line, is only about 9 miles away as the 
crow flies. It is only about 55 miles by highway 
through Littlestown and Westminster to Balti- 
more, and less than 86 miles over the indirect 
route through Emmitsburg, Frederick and Ridge- 
ville to Washington. 

In its course westward from ^ ork. the highway 
makes a long gradual bend southw.ml, reaching 
its greatest deviation from the direct line at Clet- 
tysburg, and almost immediatels' thereafter it be- 
gins a corresponding northward bend toward 
Chambersburg antl Bedford. 1 hough this high- 
way and the main line of the Pennsylvania R. R. 
are to come together again at CJreensburg, less 
than 150 miles farther west, the latter is at the 
corresponding point following the Juniata river 
west from Harrisburg hilly 50 air-line miles north 
of (lettvsburg. 1 he distance covered bv Lee's 



army in its invasion of Maryland and Pennsvl- 
\ani.i during the summer of 1S6.?, and particu- 
larl\ on its retreat after the battle, is less than 
ordinarily supposed. 

1 his locality was the ancestral home of the 
Studebaker family. The late J. M. Studebaker, 
Sr., son of a country blacksmith, was born Octo- 
ber 10, 1833, a few miles north of Ciettvsburg. 
He learned his trade, including, no doubt, the 
"setting" of tires on stage-coaclTes and freight- 
wagons, in this section, from which he emigrated 
to California in the early days of the gold excite- 
ment. 1 here he accumulated enough capital, 
largely by making wheelbarrows for miners, to 
enable him to move to South Bend, Indiana, and 
with his brother lay the foundations for the larg- 
est individual wagon business in the world. 

Mr. Studebaker died in March, 1917, after 
having witnessed the evolution of road trans- 
portation from the Conestoga wagon, averaging 
perhaps four or five miles an hour with the average 
load, to passenger and freight motor vehicles. 

lourists passing through Gettysburg often ask 
for directions to the old Studebaker homestead. 
A correspondent residing in the locality sends 
them in brief terms as follows: "From Ciettys- 
buig, go north 5 miles on the Harrisburg Road; 
at the Schriver farm, turn right 1 mile to Hiint- 
erstown. From the stjuare, Hunterstown. con- 
tinue north 2 miles to fork, where take the right- 
hand road. The Studebaker homestead, no lon- 
ger standing, was the first building on that road." 
The barn and the original Studebaker forge, the 
genesis of the great business now long established 
under that name, stood for some time after the 
house was torn down; but all of the buildings 
h:i\c since disappeared. 




/■ - '. i / . If. Oar*. S|n„^ . \ I . 

MONUMENT. Isl MINNESOTA INFANTRY 

It is an interesting fact that the relatively few soldiers from a State en- 
tering theUnion in 1858, should have sustained the greatest single 



losses at Gettysburg 



62 



GETTYSBl R(i:—A summary for the through tourist 

This Pennsylvania town owes its fame to the battle of July 1, 2 and 3, 1863, usually considered the 
high water-mark in the Civil \\ ar. 1 he location for this supremely important battle was not selected 
by either commander, but was brought on by mmor conflicts between widely separated forces of Lee's 
army, which had come up from Virginia through the Shenandoah Valley, and the Army of the Potomac, 
working northward on the "inside line" from the Rappahannock through Frederick, Maryland, into 
Pennsylvania. 

Beginning in the forenoon of July 1, along the Chambersburg Pike, just west of Gettysburg, the 
fight, to which new forces were gradually added on both sides, was brought first into the town, and then 
transferred to the mam battlefield mimediately south of it. On the afternoon of Julv 3, occurred Pick- 
ett's famous charge, "the high tide ot the Confederacy in arms." Beaten in that charge, and seeing no 
way to win the battle, Lee gathered his shattered remnants, and that night began the retreat to the 
Potomac. 

The losses at Gettysburg have been the subject of controversy, especially on the Confederate side. 
In fairly satisfactory round numbers, the Federals lost 23,000 out of 93,000 engaged; the Confederates 
22,500 out of 80,000, besides 5,400 prisoners. The greatest single losses were sustained by the 1st Min- 
nesota regiment, not as usually supposed, by the men engaged in Pickett's charge. 




GENERAL MAP 

OF THE 

GETTYSBURG BATTLEFIELD 

Prepared by Ihe Gettysburg National Park Commission 
Col. John P Nicholson .Chairman 
Lt. Coll. B. Cope, Engineer. 



Redrawn on reduced scale by arrangement 
with ttie Commission . 



63 



The Lincaln Highway in Pennsylvania 

On November 19, 1863, the cemetery at Gettysburg was dedicated, furnishinu the occasion for 
President Lincoln's Gettysburg Address. The "brief remarks," intended then principally to add offi- 
cial character to the program, composed largely of a long and able address by Edward Everett, have 
become as widely known as the battle. Practically from that time to this, the work of enlarging, im- 
proving and marking the field has been going on, until nearly the whole area covered in the three day's 
fight has been made a National memorial to the soldiers of the North and South. 




Pbotogra[-b lopyrigbl hy Tipton, Cettysburg 
SOLDIERS' NATIONAL MONUMLN l lo ALL RLGULAR COMMANDS, NATIONAL CEMETERY, GETTYSBURG 

Erected in 1S(1*\ on the exact spot where Abr-lhiini Lincoln delivered the Geltysburg Address. November 10, l8o3; view from top of New ^'ork 
State monument. The small stones in rows on the left-hand side of the picture represent graves of unidentified soldiers 



"Nor shall their valor he forgot 
While Jame her record keeps." 



I with uncovered head 
Salute the sarred dead 
Who went, and returned not. — Lowell. 



64 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 

Chapter \ — From (leHyshurg to Chambershurff — 243^ Miles 

Through the western end of the battlefield, and across South Mountain 

into the CAimberland Valley. 



The first three miles out of Gettysburg toward 
the west are within the battlefield area; and sev- 
eral landmarks along the roadside will recall the 
fighting on the first and second days. From the 
Square at the business center, the tourist follows 
Main, or Chambersburg St., crossing Washington 
St.: and one square farther on comes to a promi- 
nent fork, where the Lincoln Highway branches 
diagonally right, while Sprmgs Ave. continues a 
short distance straight ahead. The latter starts 
a connecting road from this route to Fairfield, 
Waynesboro and Hagerstown, using a section of 
Springs Ave. and a short piece of Confederate 
Ave., into the Hagerstown Road, farther out than 
we can see it. 

In the fork, just as we curve right, is the monu- 
ment erected by Pennsylvania to represent Co. A, 
26th Kmergency Regiment, on the roll of which 
were the names of more than half the students of 
Gettysburg College. This was the first company 
to respond to the call of Gov. Curtin for volun- 
teers to assist in opposing the Confederate inva- 
sion of the North in the early summer of 1R63. 
Hastily gathered militia, of which this was a 
part, corresponded somewhat to the various 
"Home Guards" raised locally by several states 
as reserve forces during the world war. 

The boyish figure was designed to recall the 
"Minute Man" of Lexington, Mass.; and to em- 
phasize the fact that these college youth were as 
prompt to hear the call for volunteers as the men 
and boys of 1775. On the spot where it is now 
located, the "College Company" formed before 
it marched out to meet the Confederate forces 
then coming eastward along this same road toward 
Gettysburg. Adjutant Harvey W. McKnight of 
that regiment (class of '65), afterwards became 
president of Pennsylvania College. 

Over to the right, beyond the Western Mary- 
land Railway, is Pennsylvania Hall, oldest build- 
ing in the college group, on the highest ground in 
the immediate locality. In the forenoon of July 
1, several Union officers used its tower for obser- 
vations. During the afternoon, the fighting 
raged not only along the main highway, but also 
through these grounds, which were between Sem- 
inary Ridge and the Mummasburg, Carlisle and 
Harrisburg roads north of the town, and thus 
traversed by the contending forces. 

Gen. Lee, who had come over South Mountain 
eastward from Cashtown by the next tew miles of 
our route, was quick to take advantage ot this 
lookout after the Federal cavalry, which had 
opened the battle, and the infantry, brought up 
hastily to support it, had both been driven back 



into or east of the town by superior numbers of 
Confederate infantry. During the further pro- 
gress of the battle and for several months after- 
wards, this building was used for hospital pur- 
poses, caring for the wounded on both sides. The 
national commission in charge of the 50th anni- 
versary celebration had its headquarters on the 
campus of this college, July 1-4, 1913. 
Landmarks Along the Chambersburg Pike 

Back of the monument to the memory of the 
young college soldier is the Meade School, a large 
brick building, named after the Union general; 
we leave it on the left and cross the Round Top 
branch, Harrisburg & Gettysburg (Reading) R.R. 
On Seminary Ridge, a short distance south of the 
highway, are the old and the new buildings ot the 
Lutheran Theological Seminary, an institution 
dating back to 1825, and from which the famous 
ridge was named. The cupola of the older build- 
ing was the first Union lookout, where Gen. Bu- 
ford met Gen. Reynolds on the morning of July 1, 
early in the first day's fight; though afterwards 
Pennsylvania Hall, of Gettysburg College, the 
Court House and other buildings in the town were 
used for the same purpose. 

On the left-hand side, almost exactly a mile 
from the Square, Gettysburg, is the small old 
stone building widely but incorrectly known as 
Lee's headquarters after his arrival in the neigh- 
borhood about 4 P. M., on July 1. In front of it, 
facing the road, is a "C. S. A." marker, reading as 
follows: "In this field was located the headquar- 
ters of the Armv of Northern Virginia, lulv 1, 2, 
3 and 4, 1863."' 

This is supplemented by a quotation taken, 
probably, from some later document, "My head- 
quarters were in tents in an apple orchard back of 
the Seminary, along the Chambersburg Pike, R. 
E. Lee." Neither the tablet itself nor the quota- 
tion just given mentions the building; and most 
of the story about it is traditional. During the 
next 48 hours after he reached this locality, the 
Confederate commander was at many places 
throughout the battle area W. H. Tipton, the 
wartime photographer, writes as follows: 

The house kiioivn as "Lee's headquarters" was oc- 
cupied by an old lady named Thompson. When I 
photographed it after the battle, she said that a Con- 
federate officer with his staff called and asked if she 
would prepare a lunch for them. While this was be- 
ing done, he wrote and sent off a few orders, .^fter 
lunch another order was written and sent as before. 

When ready to leave, one of the officers asked what 
her charges were. She replied "nothing." the offi- 
cer then said, "Gen. Lee and the rest of us have en- 
joyed the excellent meal you prepared, and the Gen- 
eral w'ishes that you be paid for it." She refused to 



65 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



accept any payment; but riiiucstid that she ami her 
property be protected. Mrs. 1 hompson said that 
Lee was in her house about ai» hour. 

Monuments and markers are now so freciiant 
along and nearby both sides of the highway that 
none attract particular attention until we come 
to the equestrian figure of (Jen. Reynolds, on the 
north side, about a third mile west of Lee's 
"headquarters." 1 hat monument, a statue of the 
cavalry commander, Cien. John Buford, the mon- 
ument of the 2nd Maine Battery part-way between 
them; and, across the road, markers to the 149th 
Pennsylvania Infantry and Battery A, 2nd U. S. 
Artillery, form a sightly, distinctive and notable 
group. 1 he most conspicuous among them 
Reynolds mounted — recalls a somewhat sunilar 
one just mside the esplanade along the north side 
of the City Hall. Philadelphia. 

Gen. Reynolds was killed in front of the woods 
on the Mcpherson farm, a short distance south ot 
this portion of the highway; subsequently the 
name was changed to Reynolds Woods. 1 he 
grove, identified by a marker, is visible to one on 
the lookout for it from our route. Between the 
highway and Reynolds Woods is the statue of 
John Burns, the old man who fought as a citizen, 
and other monuments. 

In this vicinity the battle of Gettysburg was 
begun, by Calef's Battery, Co. A, 2nd U. S. 
Artillery, though there is some difference of opin- 
ion even on that point. During one of the large 
gatherings connected with the .iOth anniversary 
celebration, July, 19I.i, participating veterans 
stoutly claimed that honor for both Pennsylvania 
and New \'ork; and one speaker predicted that, 
"it will never be knovyn positively who started 
the battle." 

A short distance beyond this group of land- 
marks, the highway crosses a small stone bridge 
over W'illoughby Run. On the left, in the first 
corner beyond the stream, is a farmhouse, form- 





Edward Pauscb, ^culplor. i*bolo jfrom ijeltysburg Nalionai Fark 
Commission 

SOLDIER, 2bth PENNSYLVANIA EMERGENCY REGIMENT 

Located in angle formed by Lincoln Highway branching right, in leav- 
ing Gettysburg for the long straightaway toward the west 



WIDELY KNOWN AS "LEE'S HEADQUARTERS" 

Small old stone dwelling, on south side of main highway west of Get- 
tysburg, where Gen. Lee and his staff were served with a lunch by Mrs. 
Thompson 

erly Herr's Tavern, named from the original 
owner, and kept at the time of the battle by Jacob 
Mickley. There \yere several other taverns in 
the Gettysburg section before the railway era, 
particularly on the routes leading in from Balti- 
more and out towards Chambersburg. Usually 
they were located at intervals of a mile or less; 
practically all of them have either been disman- 
tled or are now private residences. 

Last Views of the Battlefield Area 

Starting two squares west of the center of Get- 
tysburg, an S-mile straightavyay of the Lincoln 
Highvyay ascends a gradual grade, from along 
vyliich ;ire interesting glimpses of the town and 
enyirons. One who has already identified the 
principal topographical features. Gulp's Hill, 
Cemetery Hill, the Round lops and Seminary 
Ridge, will find these final views of great interest; 
and the preliminary military movements will be 
more thoroughly ' understood from these new 
points of vantage. Passing through this locality, 
the tourist will see Gettysburg as the soldiers in 
Lee's army did when they are said to have liter- 
ally darkened the road from South Mountain to 
the fair landscapes, soon to be turned into a world- 
famous battlefield. 

Over to the right, almost parallel with the high- 
way but in a deep cut for considerable distance, 
is the W'estern Maryland Railway. Projected 
about 1840 to connect south-central Pennsylva- 
nia with Hagerstown, Md., the Potomac river 
and the Baltimore & Ohio R. R., this line, aban- 
doned for a long period, came to be known face- 
tiously as "the Tape-worm." Early in the battle 
of Gettysburg, part of the contest was carried 
across this cut; and several markers are north ot 
it. .'Xfter the war, the project was revived on a 
sounder basis; and what is now the Gettysburg 
line of the W'estern Maryland was built through 
I-';iirfield and Waynesboro to Hagerstown. 

Gettysburg has begun to grow dim in the dis- 
tance before we come to the last few markers on 
the western end of the battlefield. Three miles 
out, we note on the north side of the highway a 
tablet upon which it is stated that Capt. Jones, 



66 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




//. K. Busb-Broun, sculptor. Photo Jrom ( ^t!t\ •Inn ^ .\ational Park 
Commission 

MAJOR-GEN. JOHN FULTON REYNOLDS. U. S. V. 

Commander 1st Corps, Army of the Potomac. This monument is along 
the Lincoln Highway, within a short distance of the spot where the gen- 
eral was killed in the first day's fight 



with Sergt. Shafer's Carbine Co. E, 8th Illinois 
Cavalry, Gamble's Brigade, fired the first shot at 
7:30 A. M., July 1, 1863. That conflicts in some 
details with what we have learned heretofore; 
and especially when running otF the field, the av- 
erage tourist is content to leave such points to the 
critics. 

Our attention is arrested for a moment, how-, 
ever, by the last tablet of all, on the north side of 
the highwav about l-3rd mile west of the Capt. 
Jones marker. This perpetuates the memory of 
the 26th Pennsylvania Emergency Infantry, of 
which the "college company," already mentioned, 
was a part. Here, on the morning of June 26rh, 
that regiment met the Confederate advance, 
Early's division of Ewell's corps, marching from 
South Mountain toward the Susquehanna river, 
as described in the Columbia-Wrightsville-York 
section. 

Brushing aside that slight resistance. Early 
pushed rapidly through, stopping at Gettysburg, 
later that same day, long enough to assess a ran- 
som, but not waiting to collect it. Minor casual- 
ties among the hastily assembled volunteers at 
this outpost, June 26, were the first in the battle- 
field area. The Confederate corps commander 
returned a few days later to put his men into the 
fight; but the ^10,000 in cash and large quantity 
of provisions he expected to secure were never 
again demanded. 

Beyond the farthest marker, the highway is 
carried over Marsh creek by a low stone and rail- 
fence bridge; about a i o m'le farther on it crosses 
the Western Maryland Railway for the last time. 
After following for several miles southwest along 
the eastern base of South Mountain, the railroad 



winds through that range below Fairfield, Pa., 
nearby where Lee's retreating armies crossed it on 
their way back to the Potomac. From thence, 
it continues through Hagerstown to Antietam, 
linking together Gettysburg and Antietam, the 
turning points of the two Confederate invasions 
of the North (1862 and 1863). 

We are now beyond the battlefield area, though 
still in the zone of military movements leading up 
to Gettysburg. Just west of where the railroad 
turns off, the highway passes through the hamlet 
of Seven Stars, named from an old tavern, upon 
whose sign seven stars were once displayed. 
McKnightstown, a village about two miles farther 
on, was named from the owner of the tract of 
land upon which it was located. 

Up to and Through Cashtown 

Looking ahead, the tourist may now begin to 
see in the distance the eastern entrance to South 
Mountain gap, occupied by Cashtown village, 
into which the highway comes without deviating 
from a straight line since leaving Gettysburg. 
This is the most direct section of its length between 
Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, recalling the "Long 
Stretch" on the Nation.il Road west of Frost- 
burg, Maryland, though the latter is less than half 
as long as this approach to South Mountain from 
the east. On the wide expanse of nearly level 
ground in front of the gap, or pass, Lee hoped and 
planned to fight the battle which took place at 
Gettysburg; and in fact wrote, as late as the 
morning of July 1, from his camp west of South 
Mountain, to the cavalry leader, Imboden, "My 
headquarters for the present will be at Cashtown, 
east of the mountain." 




J. E. Ketly. sculptor, Pboto jrom Gettysburg National Park Commission 

MAJOR-GEN. JOHN BUFORD. U. S. CAV. 

North side of Lincoln Highway, near the equestrian statue of Gen. Rey- 
nolds, and in the midst of the locality where the first day's fight started 



67 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



The strategy of this plan becomes apparent 
from even passing observation of the locality. 
Back of a strong Confederate army concentrated 
at this point would have been a natural, easily- 
traveled highway to and from the Cumberland 
Valley, rising very gradually from 745 feet at 
Cashtown to 1,334 feet at the highest point, a 
short 4 miles almost directly west. Had the 
Army of the Potomac faced i>ee here, on groimds 
chosen by him, the Army of Northern N'irginia 
might have overcome it, and continued east and 
southeast, taking I'hiladelphia. Baltimore and 
Washington. 

If defeated m such a position, Lee could have 
held this long narrow gap with a small force, 
moving his main army back into the Cumberland 
Valley, and thence to the Potomac crossings. But 
that was not to be, for Heth's division, the ad- 
vance of A. P. Hill's corps, had already pushed 
on to the eastern edge of (Jettysburg. encounter- 
ing Buford's Union cavalry. The battle was 
then on — at a place less favorable for the Confed- 
erates; and Cashtown just missed its only chance 
to become famous. 

As soon as he learned the real situation, Lee 
galloped eastward over the 7 miles from Cash- 
town to Seminary Ridge, arriving at the western 
end of the battlefield in the afternoon of July 1, 
as recalled in connection with the first day's tight. 
Though much shorter, that ride must have been 
at least as dramatic as Sheridan's, in the Shenan- 
doah valley, somewhat more than a year later. 
In an hour of supreme responsibility, his plans 
had to be largely re-made to cope with new and 
unexpected developments over a large area. 

This is our last backward glance at Gettysburg, 
though in running through the gap to Chambers- 
burg, we will pass the locations where oncoming 
corps and divisions of the Confederate army 
camped or halted on their way eastward. On the 
evening of June 29, Heth's division ot A. P. 
Hill's corps was here at Cashtown, Hill's other 
two divisions being either en route through the 
gap, or in camps west of the mountain. Still 
farther west, but likewise marching east, were two 
divisions of Longstreet's corps, Pickett's division 
having been left at Chambersburg to guard the 
trains and keep open communication until 
brought to (lettvsburg to make the fatal charge 
of July 3. 

A point of local interest at Cashtown is "Rock 
Top," a high knob on the eastern face ot South 
Mountain, a short distance north of the highway, 
commanding an extensive and beautiful view of 
the surrounding country, especially eastward. 
The lookout established on the summit before the 
military movements through here in 1S63, is still 
maintained. It was used for observation pur- 
poses by the Confederates. 

Crossing South Mount.mn 

1 he next few miles mark the first great topo- 
graphic change in the character of the route. 
Practically from the Philadelphia suburban dis- 
trict, we have traversed a rich agriculriiral sec- 



tion, clotted like a vast map with prosperous cities 
and attractive villages. .Many hills have been 
seen, but no mountains; woods almost without 
number, but no extensive forests. Now we run 
into a mountain region covered with forests as 
dense as most of those in the western part of the 
state. 

South Mountain is the name in south-central 
Pennsylvania and adjoining parts of Maryland 
tor the extension of the true Blue Ridge moun- 
tains of Virginia north of the i'otomac. It is the 
low eastern front, in this section, of the Allegha- 
nies. In Maryland, some distance below our 
route, this range divides into two parts, the west- 
erly one, still known as South Mountain, extend- 
ing to the Potomac at Weverton, just east of Har- 
per's Ferry, and the other, a smaller ridge, a few 
miles east, known as Catoctin Mountain, sloping 
to that river near Point of Rocks. 1 he Blue 
.Mountains, or Kittatinny range, extending from 
northeastern Pennsylvania across the Delaware 
river into western New Jersey and the Hudson 
highlands, are part of the same system, separated 
from South .Mountain by the wide and low Sus- 
quehanna valley. 

In their long diagonal course from the Hudson 
valley across the Delaware, Susquehanna and 
Potomac rivers to southwestern \ irginia, these 
ranges decrease gradually in height through south- 
central Pennsylvania and the Piedmont section of 
Maryland, which fact has been of great practical 
and historical value in the development ot travel 
from Philadelphia, Harrisburg, Baltimore and 
W ashington to the west. Lhrough their conven- 
iently located passes, the National Road, the 
Lincoln Highway and the NN'illiam Penn Highway 
are provided with natural and comparatively easy 
gateways to the Ohio river, the first large west- 
ward-flowing waterway. 

Instead of being a well-defined, bulky range 
with a sharp ascent on one side and a corres- 
ponding descent on the other, like most of those 
farther west. South .Mountain is here an aggre- 
gate of high hills and low mountains, separated 
across the entire width by this strategic pass. 
For most of the 4 miles from Cashtown to the 
crest, the grade is so gradual that one hardly no- 
tices the climb; in the opposite direction, it is a 
long easy coast. 

The battle of South Mountain was fought Sept. 
14. 1S62. in Turner's Gap, between Middletown 
and Boonsboro, .Maryland, about 30 miles al- 
most due south of our present route over the same 
range in Pennsylvania. At that time the Con- 
federate forces, which had crossed the Potomac 
and come up along the line of the Monocacy river 
to Frederick, were hurrying from east to west of 
the Blue Ridge toward Harper's F"erry. with the 
Arnu of the Potomac under McClellan in slow 
pursuit. Three days later the battle of .Antietam 
ended Lee's first invasion of Maryland. 

It is interesting to note that nearly ten months 
later, larger Confederate armies, brought up from 
N'irginia through the Shenandoah valley and 
across the Potomac into the Cumberland valley, 



68 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



crossed from west to east of the Blue Ridge over 
this route, much farther north than was reached 
by the 1862 campaign. They met no opposition 
here on South Mountain, but continued their 
march to Gettysburg, where the second invasion 
was turned hack. 

In the early days, iron mines and furnaces were 
in operation at various points on and about this 
range, particularly at Caledonia, on the western 
side; and considerable money was spent in devel- 
oping the extensive deposits known to exist in the 
region. But the difficulty of smelting the ores 
with anv heat then at command, the discovery of 
larger quantities in the Northwest, and inade- 
quate transportation facilities, led to their aban- 
donment long ago. There is no railroad for sev- 
eral miles east or west; and the highway is today, 
as a hundred years ago, the only means of trans- 
portation across this stretch. After the failure of 
the iron business here, the State made an advan- 
tageous purchase of about 15,000 acres, now part 
of the Caledonia Forest Reserve. 

Large areas on and about South Mountain are 
still covered with virgin forests; apparently very 
little lumbering has been done in this region. 
More than a half century ago, considerable of this 
timberland was held by owners of blast furnaces 
along the middle Susquehanna river, as a reserve 
of wood for making charcoal. But the change to 
anthracite coal as fuel, left these great tracts prac- 
tically untouched, whereas many extensive wood- 
land areas farther west have been almost ruined 
by ruthless lumbering. 

Descent Into the Cumberland Valley 

About two miles west of Cashtown, nearly half- 
way up the pass, is the hamlet of Willow Grove, 
elevation 954 feet. From here a reverse fork on. 
the right leads eastward to Mummasburg and 
Gettysburg, entering that town from the north. 
This route, once known locally as the "old York 
Road," antedating the corresponding section of 
the present main highway, laid out to shorten the 
distance from the pass of South Mountain to 
points east, is still used considerably by local trav- 
el. The side-road branching left at "Willow- 
Grove" leads to Fairfield and Waynesboro. 

Running up through this pass from the east, 
one follows most of the way a small tributary of 
Marsh creek, flowing southeast into Antietam 
creek, and that into the Potomac east of Hagers- 
town. Somewhere near the top, the little stream 
unexpectedly disappears into the mountain re- 
cesses, farther from the highway. Having gone 
over the crest, however, one comes almost at 
once along the first small stream flowing west 
into Conococheague creek, which after a long 
roundabout course north and west of our route, 
also reaches the Potomac, a short distance west of 
Hagerstown. 

At the height of the pass is a small settlement, 
Newman, where the main highway is crossed by a 
north-and-south road. To the right, at the east- 
ern foot of Piney Mountain, is the picturesque 
Buchanan valley. About three miles down the 



left-hand road was a famous resort known before 
the Civil War as the Caledonia Springs Hotel. 
Only the foundations remain; the patronage it 
once enjoyed has found more accessible places. 

We now descend into the Cumberland valley, 
the next predominant geographical feature of our 
route. In the three miles from the crest of the 
mountain to Caledonia, the drop is from 1,334 
feet to 944, but so gradual as to make an agreea- 
ble coast, mostly through cool woods. The road 
is remarkably straight considering the character 
ot the country. Nearing the western end of the 
pass, one will notice summer homes and camps at 
advantageous points, owned principally by Cham- 
bersburg people. 

On the right-hand side, near the foot of the 
western slope, is Piney Mountain Inn, compara- 
tively new, named after the mountain back of it. 
Farther along, also on the right, is Graefenburg 
Inn, an older but attractive place. The latter, 
situated almost underneath Graefenburg Hill, 
from which it was named, and also on the Hne be- 
tween Adams Co. on the east and Franklin Co. on 
the west, is quite a landmark. In the olden days, 
when liquor permits were issued by the counties, 
there was occasional trouble over the license at 
this place, quite a different hotel from now. When 
the authorities of one county would come to the 
old inn, the proprietor would move his stock of 
liquors to the opposite end of the bar, in the other 
county; it is not recorded that they ever came at 
the same time from the two directions. 

From Graefenburg Hill, rising several hundred 
feet above the roadway, and other elevations in 
this vicinity, many fine views, especially eastward 
into Adams Co., may be had. The former P. O. 
here was named after Graefenburg, Austria, by 
Hon. Edward McPherson, father of Judge Donald 
McPherson, of Gettysburg. It was once a popular 
resort, widely known for its springs. 

Approaching Caledonia Park, one will notice 
on the right (north) side, a small mountain stream, 
along which is a charming rhododendron walk 
about a mile in length. This is a beautiful sight 
in almost anv season; but when the rhododendron 
is in full bloom, usually the latter part of June, a 
roadside stop and the short walk necessary to see 
it to best advantage, will be well repaid. 

An Old-Time Iron Manufacturing Village 

Now we come to a small iron bridge over another 
stream, which enters from the left (south) side of 
the road, and runs into Conococheague creek a 
few yards over to the right (north) side. On the 
left, immediately beyond that bridge, is the frame 
building used for an office by the Caledonia Iron 
Co. before the Civil War. In this considerable 
enterprise for that time, Thaddeus Stevens, the 
"great commoner," was the principal factor if not 
practically the owner. 

When Stevens came to Lancaster from Gettys- 
burg (1842), he was a man of limited means, but 
became in time leader of the County bar. His 
large and lucrative practice was supplemented by 
a notable legislative career lasting until his death 



69 






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70 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



in 1868. The iron business was a side-issue with 
him; the nearby plant, using ores all mined in the 
locality, was for at least part of the time conduct- 
ed at considerable loss. 

When the Confederates passed through here on 
their way from Chambersburg to Gettysburg, 
they burned the iron works, because of Stevens' 
ownership or large interest, knowing him to be a 
prominent abolitionist. Judge Landis, of Lan- 
caster, has a letter written July 7, 1863, to O. J. 
Dickey, Esq., of that city, in which Stevens speaks 
of "my ashes," and mentions intending to go over 
and "see their color." 

His summer home stood about 100 yards from 
the south side ot the road, west of the former office 
building. In the '80s, it was occupied by Napo- 
leon Underwood and his son, typical mountain- 
eers, old employees of Stevens, then caretakers 
for the iron works estate. They and a few other 
characters of that period are still remembered by 
people in the locality and in Chambersburg. That 
building was subsequently removed, but the well 
on the grounds is still used. 

Perhaps ten or twelve other houses, once occu- 
pied by employees, and the long frame stables (in 
which the mules used in the works were quar- 
tered), located between the site of the former 
Stevens house and the highway, have also been re- 
moved. The blacksmith shop, entirely remod- 
eled, is now a local station for the electric railway 
between Chambersburg and Caledonia Park. 

The iron interests of Thaddeus Stevens in this 
section recall the great but futile efforts of himself 
and group of friends, over eighty years ago, to ex- 
tend the State-owned railroad, then connecting 
Philadelphia and Lancaster, with the Susque- 
hanna navigation system at Columbia, through 
^\)rk, Gettysburg and Waynesboro, and across 
Maryland to the Potomac, which would have 
made an east-to-southwest route through these 
lands. There was keen rivalry between that pro- 
ject and the Cumberland Valley R.R., then in the 
process of formation. Stevens had official and 
political advantages, but a more natural and eas- 
ier route, only a little longer, was from Harrisburg 
through Carlisle and Chambersburg, as finally 
built. 

In 1838, Stevens, already a canal commissioner, 
became president of the State board, and used his 
great influence in favor of the Gettysburg route, 
against the report of the legislative committee 
favoring the Cumberland Valley, on account of 
easier country to build through and greater ex- 
pected traffic. About ;S700,000 of State funds 
were spent on the project before work was sus- 
pended in 1839, and the Cumberland Valley line 
pushed to completion. When, much later, a rail- 
way was constructed beyond Gettysburg, it turned 
southwest at Seven Stars, east of Cashtown, leav- 
ing the former Stevens lands without transporta- 
tion, exactly as they were decades before. 

In a Great Forest Reserve 

The Pennsylvania State Forest Reserve in this 
section contains approximately 65,000 acres, 

71 



mostly on the western slopes of South Mountain. 
Though close to both sides of the road for three or 
four miles, a comparatively small part actually 
fronts on the highway, the nearer portions having 
been set aside for residences and improvements. 
At two points (about 1-mile east, and also about 
1-mile west of the bridge at Caledonia), the road 
is upon State land. 

This reserve is open for hunting, fishing and 
camping, the latter by permission of the State 
Forestry Reservation Commission, Harrisburg. 
Stringent rules about fires, destruction of timber 
or shrubbery, etc., are in force within its limits. 
I he forests are principally of red, white and 
Scotch pine, Norway spruce, chestnut, white oak, 
rock oak, maples and a great deal of scrub oak. 

Dr. Joseph T. Rothrock, of West Chester, Pa., 
formerly Commissioner of Forestry, and president 
emeritus of the Pennsylvania Forestry Associa- 
tion, suggests a side-trip to the State Tubercular 
Sanitarium, almost due south of Caledonia Park, 
and to the Forest Academy, some distance west; 
this can be made, if desired, without returning to 
Caledonia. Being personally unacquainted with 
the locality south of the main highway there, the 
author gladly makes room herewith for a conden- 
sation of Dr. Rothrock's directions: 

At Caledonia, avoid left-hand road on eastern (Gettys- 
burg) side of bridge; cross to west (Chambersburg) side, 
and turn left at the corner where the old office building 
stands. Follow upstream, a very easy grade, on wide, 
usually good dirt road about 4-miles to an ice-pond, where 
road forks. Left leads to the Sanatorium (1600 feet ele- 
vation), which has 1,050 free beds for citi7ens of the State. 
Right descends through about three miles of attractive 
mountain scenery to the State Forest Academy, where 
we train young foresters. 

In summer, from Caledonia to the Forest Academy is 
good dirt road. From the Academy back to the Sanito- 
rium, It is a well-built road for heavy hauling, good all- 
year. Mont Alto proper, a mile beyond the .'\cademy, is 
duectly on the shortest route to Waynesboro and Hagers- 
town. A State road is building, or to be built, from 
Waynesboro to Mont .'\lto. Last season there was an 
almost continuous line of touring cars between Caledonia 
and the Forest Academy. Some continued on to Waynes- 
boro; others went via Mont Alto to Chambersburg, and 
still others rejoined the Lincoln Highway at Fayetteville. 
1 his provides an alternate route between Waynesboro and 
Gettysburg, if one prefers it to the route over Blue Ridge 
Summit. 

Going over the route via the Sanatorium, you observe 
to excellent advantage the State's forest and health activi- 
ties, and pass through the portion of our forests best 
stocked with deer. On a recent trip, we saw, going and 
coming, seven wild deer at large. During the December 
hunting season, probably 75 deer were shot in the region 
traversed by this road. The route is already a favorite 
side-trip, and worthy of mention. From the Forest Acad- 
emy to Fayetteville, the road (three miles), though never 
very good, is not very bad. The new road from Mont 
.Alto to Waynesboro will connect the region from Gettys- 
burg through Caledonia to Hagerstown by a new and very 
attractive thoroughfare. 

In and About Black Gap 

The highway emerges from the western end of 
the pass through South Mountain at Black Gap, 
a small village originally called Black's Gap, after 
Robert Black, an early settler, by whom the road 
which crosses the main highway at the store in the 
village was laid out in 1750. During the Civil 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



War, it was known as Cireenwood, the temporary 
headciuarters of (Jen. Lee just before he went east 
over this route during the alternoon of July 1. 
1863, to assume personal command of the Confed- 
erate forces at Gettysburg. Through here passed 
A. P. Hill's corps, soon followed by two divisions 
of Longstreet's corps. Considerably later, came 
Pickett's division, the last to get into the fight 
from this direction, marching to defeat and last- 
ing fame. During this great movement (ireen- 
wood, as It was alwavs referred to in the dispatches 
and records of that time, was a strategic point, 
like Cashtown, at the eastern approach to the pass. 

Through here, also, marched Early's division 
of Powell's corps on its way through (lettysburg 
and York to the Susquehanna river before the 
concentration of Confederate troops at Gettys- 
burg. Coming up trom the Potomac, this divis- 
ion did not continue all the way from Hagerstown 
northeast along the Cumberland valley to Cham- 
bersburg with l.ee's main columns; but left that 
route in the vicinity of Marion station, about mid- 
way between Greencastle and Chambersburg, 
following a short-cut through here into the pass 
between Black Ciap and Cashtown. 

After the battle of (jettysburg, the greater part 
of Lee's army retreated through Fairfield and 
Waynesboro to Hagerstown. But some detach- 
ments started west through the Sciuth Mountain 
pass, turning nearly direct south at Greenwood 
(Black Gap), through a small valley, which may 
be seen over to the left, to Waynesboro, instead 
of taking the longer way back through Chambers- 
burg, as the most of them had come. .Artillery, 
SLippK' wagons and hospital trains were driven 
across-fields from here toward the Maryland line 
at a number of places; str;igglers continued into 
Chambersburg and even as tar as McConnells- 
burg. 

A short distance west of Black (Jap, we pass 
through the old village of Kayetteville, named at 
the time of establishing the P. O. in 1826, after 
Gen. Lafayette, who had not long before finished 
his memorable visit to the United States. In 
1768, Edward Crawford, a large land-owner of 
Fayetteville, and others, petitioned the County 
Court for a road to extend from Black's Gap to a 
point near Loudon, on the way to McConnells- 
burg. This was granted in 1772, and in the course 
of rime became pr;ictic;ill\- the route of the pres- 
ent highwav between those points. 1 he Craw- 
ford f;imilv has ever since been a prominent one 
in the locality. 

L.AST Stretch into Chambersburg 

At Fayetteville, the side-trip from Caledonia 
past the State Sanatorium and Forest Academy, 
outlined in e:irlier p;ir;igraphs. returns to this 
main line from the south. \\ e cross the W aynes- 
borough branch, Cumberland \';illey R. R., ;it 
Fayetteville station; over to the right beyond 
this point, one may see Conococheague creek, 
making a long loop north before returning to our 
route again, just west of Chambersburg. 

Stonehenge, soon passed on the right, toniurls 



known as StaufFerstown, from a family of that 
name, was a village of some importance in the 
olden days. One of the landmarks still remem- 
bered was the .StaufFerstown I avern, since re- 
placed by a private dwelling. When made a P. 
(J., to avoid contusion and give distinctness, the 
well-known English name of Stonehenge was 
adopted. 

At the eastern edge of Chambersburg where the 
trolley, followed from Caledonia, takes the center 
ot the road, a hospital will be seen on the right. 
.•\lmost directly opposite (left-hand side), stood 
during the Civil War, a grove, entirely removed 
since, called Shelter's woods, in which were Gen. 
Lee's headquarters the night before he went east 
to Gettysburg. At the prominent fork a little 
farther along, we continue straight ahead (leav- 
ing the trolley, which shortly returns to the main 
route), along Lincoln Highway East, Chambers- 
burg, passing under the stone arch which 
carries the Cumberland N'alley R.R. above the 
street, nearby the station and the large office 
building of that railroad, both on the right, and 
come to the square at the center of Chambersburg. 

\ isitors with some leisure will find this a very 
interesting place. On the right, at the corner 
where Lincoln Highway East is broken by the 
S(]uare, is the Franklin Co. Court House. In the 
northern part, on the way out toward Carlisle and 
Harrisburg, is Wilson College for Women. 

The antiquarian may be interested to look at 
the site of Fort Chambers, at the confluence of 
Conococheague creek and Falling Spring, though 
nothing now remains to remind one of the old 
frontier defense and stronghold. Nearly seventy 
years ago, .Madiera's edge-tool factory was one ol 
the most celebrated of its kind in the United 
States; the walls of the building it occupied still 
stand near the Western Maryland depot, along 
the creek opposite the woolen mill, on part of the 
old fort property. 

IhK StR.^TEGIC CUMBERI-.'VND \aI.I.KV 

At Chambersburg this route completes its de- 
scent into the Cumberland valley, extending from 
the western slopes of South Mountain, near Cal- 
edonia, to the eastern sides of North and Cove 
mountains, a few miles farther west. Broadly 
speaking, it divides the scenic highlands charac- 
teristic of the section from Phihulelphia here, 
from the mount;iinous region continuing, with in- 
cidental interruptions, the remaining distance to 
Pittsburgh. Though now^ approximately in the 
center of the State, we are only 620 feet a bove sea- 
level; but from now on, elevations will average 
higher to the Alleghany summits, beyond which 
the prevailing slopes will be toward the Ohio river. 

1 he Cumberland valley is the Pennsylvania 
section of the great .Appalachian vallev. which ex- 
tends from the Suscjuehanna at Harrisburg diag- 
onally southwest through Maryland, eastern \\ est 
\ irginia and \'irginia to Cumberland Gap, where 
southwestern Virginia corners on northeastern 
Tennessee. Though but a fraction of the width 
of the Sus(iuehanna vallev, recenclv crossed, it 



72 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



has been of at least equal historic interest. In 
the early days of emigration, before east-and-west 
roadways were developed across the Alleghany 
ranges in Pennsylvania and Maryland, its south- 
westerly course made it of vast importance. 

One result of the considerable early emigration 
which followed in that direction through the Cum- 
berland-Shenandoah valley, was that Boone's 
Wilderness Road antedated both the National 
Road and the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh Pike; and 
Kentucky, largely settled over it, was admitted 
into the Union more than ten years before Ohio. 
In time, these two shorter routes from tidewater 
to the Ohio river passed the Wilderness Road in 
national importance. Instead of being followed 
anv considerable distance by westbound travel, 
the Cumberland valley is now simply crossed, at 
Hagerstown, by the National Road, and here at 
Chambersburg by the Lincoln Highway, succes- 
sor of the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh Pike. 

This is one of the most fertile, best-kept sec- 
tions of the State; beautiful, highly-cultivated 
farms are seen from the highway, and a much 
larger number of them are along the valley, 
reached by a side-trip either north or south from 
Chambersburg. Most of this region has a lime- 
stone foundation, and the soil is permeated with 
iron ores. In the valley the land is usualK' gently 
rolling; and the whole is almost literally walled in 
by the mountain ranges on both sides. It is a 
well-watered section, with small streams often 
visible from the highway. 

An Old and Historic Settlement 

Joseph and Benjamin Chambers, emigrants 
from Antrim County, Ireland, came into this sec- 
tion, then the western frontier, about 1730, and 
located at the point where Falling Spring dis-_ 
charges into Conococheague creek, about one 
square north of our route through Chambersburg. 
Joseph did not remain, but Benjamin did, and be- 
came the founder of what was known for many 
years as "Conococheague settlement," named 
after the stream, and that from an Indian word 
said to mean "Indeed a long way," which its 
winding character makes very appropriate. 

Chambers, attracted to this section by vivid 
descriptions of a hunter, decided upon the loca- 
tion largely on account of the water power avail- 
able here. A man of enterprise, he soon erected 
a hewed log house, covered with lapped shingles, 
fastened by nails; this is said to have been burned 
during his absence by a hunter for the sake of the 
nails, difficult to secure on the frontier in those 
days. By clearing new lands, building houses 
and taking advantage of the miUsites, Chambers 
became the leader in that section of the Province. 

What IS known in Pennsylvania frontier his- 
tory as Fort Chambers was erected here in 1756 as 
a protection against Indian raids from the west 
after Braddock's defeat in 1755. It stood just 
west of North Main St., midway between Market 
and King streets, the stockade enclosing the 
mouth ot the spring. Built of stone, and the roof 
lined with lead (imported from England], to pre- 



vent its being set on fire by flaming Indian arrows, 
this was considered the safest fort in that part of 
the country. 

In addition to the ordinary fire-arms of that 
time, it had a blunderbus and swivel, a combina- 
tion which kept the Indians at respectful distance. 
Not long after the fort was built. Provincial au- 
thorities became apprehensive that the French 
;md Indians might capture and turn these weap- 
ons against the other settlements. Whereupon 
a demand was made for them; but Chambers re- 
fused to surrender them, and was so well sup- 




I'ImIo Kikin Miinh, 1920 
DAVID EBV, CHAMBERSBURG, PA. 

Born December 1, 1830; a waRoner over the "Old Turnpike," 1849-'53, 
and one of the few survivals of that period now living along it. In Au- 
gust 1908, Mr. Eby refreshed the memories of his youth by walking 
from Chambersburg to Pittsburgh, at an average of about 20 miles per 
day 

ported by his neighbors that they were allowed to 
be kept as long as needed. The fort was suc- 
ceeded by a strawboard mill owned and operated 
by Dr. Samuel D. Culbertson & Sons; its site is 
now occupied by a woolen mill. 

Col. Chambers, whose title came from a com- 
mand he held in the Provisional militia, was too 
old to enlist in the Revolutionary War, but three 
of his sons joined the Continental army at Bos- 
ton. The old pioneer, however, lived to see the 
establishment of independence, and died Febru- 
ary 17, 1788, about sixty years after he had 
crossed the ocean to make his home in tar interior 
Pennsylvania. From that settlement has come 



73 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



the Chambersbiirg of today, the name very ap- 
propriately commemorating the founder and the 
old tort erected In him. 

In SrA(;i:-c()ACM and Tavern Days 

Ihe location of Chambershurg, on both the 
Philadelphia-Pittsburgh Pike, and the main route 
through the Cumberland valley, made it an im- 
portant stopping place for travel during the 
stage-coach era. IDay'.s "Historical Collections 
of Pennsylvania" (Philadelphia 1S4.^), gives the 
names of two taverns, both then located on the 
square, Culbertson's and the \\ ashuicton. Sub- 
sequently Culbertson's, which stood on the south- 
west corner, the present site of the Presbyterian 
Church, and was a prominent meeting place for 
notables before the Civil War, became the Frank- 
lin, whose fate is mentioned in a later paragraph. 
The Washington of today is in a different location 
from its prototype of at least 75 years ago. 

Ihe small number of old taverns between Lan- 
caster and Chambersburg is principally accounted 
for by the fact that before the Philadelphia-Pitts- 
burgh route was improved practically throughout 
for stage-coach and freight-wagon traffic, this 
middle section was not used nearly as much as the 
eastern division. Consequently, there was less 
need for such accommodations as were provided 
between Philadelphia and Lancaster more ade- 
ijuately than on any other American highway 
from the Colonial period to the present day. Gen- 
erally speaking, there may also have been less in- 
terest among the people along this section in pre- 
serving such taverns as existed at different times. 

A more fundamental reason, however, was the 
fact that the 54 miles of the present main route 
between York, (jettysburg and Chambersburg 
were formed by connecting up, at a considerably 
later date, still older thoroughfares farther east 
and west. By the time this process had been 
completed, the earlier group of taverns at, and 
east of, Lancaster, had served six or seven decades 
of travelers. From McConnellsburg west, partic- 
ularly in the mountains, we will notice several 
hotels dating back to stage-coach and freight- 
wagon days, but not as many or as well preser\ed 
as those on the first part of the route west of Phil- 
adelphia. 

Maps made prior to ISOO show a well-detined 
road from Lancaster to llarnsburg, and southwest 
along the Cumberland valley through Carlisle to 
Shippensburg; thence west through Fannettsburg 
and Fort Lyttleton to Bedford (several miles 
north of the present route through Chambersburg 
and McConnellsburg). On some of them, Cham- 
bersburg is not shown at all; on others, its site is 
identified as "Col. Chambers." Later develop- 
ments of east-and-west travel made it an import- 
tant |ioint. 

Road Dkvki.opment in Chambersburg Section 

On practically all of these old maps, the exten- 
sion down the Cumberland valley to Hagerstovvn 
and the Potomac river can easily be traced; also 
the ancient trail from points farther west on the 
Potomac, particularly Fort Frederick, Maryland, 



crossing the Lincoln Highway at Fort Loudon, to 
which we shall shoirly come, and continuing up 
the P:ith or I uscarora vallev to a connection with 
the pioneer route from Harrisburg through Car- 
lisle, Shippensburg and Fort Loudon to Bedford, 
i hat made a long, roundabout way from the Po- 
tomac to Bedford, but avoided the steep ascent of 
Cove Mountain west of Fort Loudon, then rela- 
tively more formidable than now. Ihus the earl- 
iest routes through both (Jettysburg anti Cham- 
bersburg were di;igonally norrh-;md-south instead 
of east-and-west. 

Strange as it may seem today, the Chambers- 
burg-McConnellsburg section of the present Lin- 
coln Highway developed largely as part of a route 
from Baltimore, and later from Washington, 
to Pittsburgh through Westminister. Waynesboro, 
Mercerburg, McConnellsburg, Bedford and (Ireens- 
burg. I he travel between Philadclphui and Bed- 
lord might h;ive been servetl iiuKhmrelv b\ the old 
route through Harrisburg. Carlisle and Shippens- 
burg; but distance and geographical conditions 
prevented that from ever becoming an advan- 
tageous route between Baltimore and Pittsburgh. 
A few miles farther on we will note the point 
where the Baltimore road diverges from what has 
since become the main line. 

Ihe old route west of Shippensburg. though 
unimproved, can still be traveled. For many 
years after tolls had been established on the Pike, 
droves of live-stock and considerable freight were 
taken that way to avoid the payment of charges 
on the newer line. About 22 miles east of Bedford 
the two alignments merge and continue as one 
most of the wav across the m:iin .Mleghany ranges. 

Probably the tirst sleeping car line in the United 
States was inaugurated during the winter of IS.U- 
'38 between Chambersburg, Harrisburg and Phil- 
adelphia. The railroad was not yet built all the 
way through to Pittsburgh; so traffic from that 
city and the Central West came over the moun- 
tains by stage to Chambersburg, where it trans- 
ferred to the Cumberland N'alley R.R. and that 
part of the Pennsylvania system then in opera- 
tion to complete the trip to I'hiladelphia. and vice 
versa. It is said that the original sleeping cars 
were in operation there until 1848. when they 
were superseded b\' through service over the main 
line between Pittsburgh and Philadelphia. 

(JLicK. Transport ok .Ammunition 

During the Civil War. the Chambersburg- 
flagerstown division of the Cumberland N'alley 
R.R. carried large numbers of Federal troops and 
vast quantities of war munitions and supplies. 
Its location exposed it to all the hazards of cav- 
alry :md infantry, and on both Confederate inva- 
sions of this region much of its property was de- 
stroyed. The railroad officials estimated the di- 
rect losses from these attacks at not less than 
3125.(X)0; and the indirect losses, due to frequent 
interruptions of traffic, were much greater. 

On September IS, 1862, the day after the battle 
of Antietam, four B. & O. R.R. cars, in custody 
of the Ordnance Department, U. S. A., drawn by 



74 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



locomotive "Judge Watts," left Bridgeport (on 
west bank of Susquehanna, opposite Harnsburg), 
at 10:44 A. M., arrived at Chambersburg 12 
o'clock noon, and at Hagerstown 12:42 P. M., a 
distance of 74 miles, in 1 hour and 58 minutes, 
averaging a mile in 1 minute, 30 6-7 seconds, 
slightly more than 37 miles an hour. Deducting 
stops, including two of ten minutes each for cool- 
ing hot boxes, this special was run at least 45 
miles an hour. 

Upon arrival at Hagerstown, journal boxes 
of all four cars were ablaze. The ammunition, 
being sent from Baltimore to McClellan near 
Sharpsburg on the Potomac, made 158 miles by 
way of Harrisburg to Hagerstown in 4 hours and 
51 minutes, or 36 9-10 miles per hour, elapsed 
time, probably the record for that period. Ha- 
gerstown was the southern terminal of this line 
until the extension to Winchester, Va., was 
opened in 1889. 

When Lee's great army came north from Vir- 
ginia at the beginning of the Gettysburg cam- 
paign. It was three or four days passing through 
Chambersburg and vicinity, the advance divisions 
headed toward Carlisle and Harrisburg and the 
later ones sent direct across South Mountain to 
Gettysburg, without tarrying long at any one 
place. On June 23, 1863, Gen. Ewell, command- 
ing the Confederate advance, made his head- 
quarters at the Franklin hotel (formerly Cul- 
bertson's), passing on to the north at the Men- 
nonite church. 

Soon after Ewell went east, Lee, Longstreet 
and A. P. Hill came up, and used the same hotel 
for their headquarters for short periods. On the 
26th, they determined the movements of Confed- 
erate forces which brought them all to Gettys- 
burg a few days later. That night (26th), Lee . 
transferred his headquarters to Shetters woods, 
already referred to. A man still residing in 
Chambersburg remembers, as a boy, sitting on 
the fence by the roadside and watching Lee look- 
ing over maps and papers m those woods. 



The Burning of Chambersburg 

Chambersburg was burned, not in the Gettys- 
burg campaign, nor by Stuart's cavalry, as often 
supposed, but more than a year afterward by 
Early's Confederate cavalry, which had eluded 
Sheridan in the Shenandoah, and after alarming 
Washington, made the last raid of the war into 
Pennsylvania. Gen. John McCausland, still liv- 
ing in West Virginia, by direction of Gen. Early, 
demanded ^100,000 in gold or );500,000 in green- 
backs, paid within a half hour. This amount 
was not forthcoming on such short notice, and the 
burning followed. 

A stone boulder set diagonally across the south- 
west corner of the Square gives the dates of the 
founding of Chambersburg (1764), and of its 
burning (July 30, 1864), number of buildings de- 
stroyed, 537, value of real estate, J5713,294.34, 
and personal propertv, 3915,137.24. The Frank- 
lin Hotel, temporary Confederate headquarters 
in the summer ot 1863, was swept away in the con- 
flagration. 1 hough the conflict was then nearing 
its end, the long-ranging southern cavalry was 
difficult to anticipate or overcome. 

This was, in fact, the third Confederate visita- 
tion of Chambersburg, the first one having been 
in October, 1862, by Stuart's cavalry. During 
McClellan's inactivity after Antietam, Stuart 
rode entirely around the Army of the Potomac, 
reached Chambersburg and returned to Virginia 
with remarkably little loss, considering the dam- 
ages inflicted. He had meanwhile baflled the 
Federal cavalry, helped to delay McClellan's ad- 
vance, and gave more time to the Army of North- 
ern Virginia. 

Stuart was not in this vicinity during the Get- 
tysburg campaign, having made his long ride from 
the Potomac to the Cumberland valley at Car- 
lisle through York. He was killed at the Yellow 
Tavern, Va., in May, 1864, about five months 
before the last raid and burning of Chambersburg. 
Here the westbound tourist leaves behind the 
last traces of the Civil War. 





1^ 



'K 



I 



i 



Photo by Ptmia. State Highway 
Department 



ARM'i' TRUCKS CROSSING 
THE ALLEGHANY' MOUN- 
TAINS DURING WINTER 

OF 1QI7-'I8 

The Lincoln Highway in Penn- 
sylvania was kept open practi- 
cally throughout that winter by 
army trucks en route to the sea- 
board for shipment to Europe. 
Some traveled light; others car- 
ried provisions or materials 
which the railroads were unable 
to transport. Since that time, 
none of the strategic highways 
between the East and Central 
West have ever been entirely 
closed 



75 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 

Chapter I I— From Cliambersbimj lo Bedford. .'k)\2 Miles 
1 iti Fori Loudon. MvConnelhlmrg and Everell, crossing Tii.icarora Mountain, 

Sideliwi flill and Hays Hill 



Fnim the west side (il the s(iiiare, Ch:imbcrs- 
biirg, our route follows Linioln Way West across 
Conococheague creek and the Western Maryland 
R.R. tracks. The first two miles are a gradual 
ascent, followed by a descent to Back creek, a 
tributary of the Conococheague. Ibis stream, 
hardly noticed m crossing, is almost exactly half- 
way between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. 

West of the bridge here, begins a long, steady 
rise out ot the Cimiberland valley, fine views 
of which may be had b\' looking back. The 
first point of note is St. Thomas, about 7J.'2 
miles beyond Chambersburg, a small village, for- 
merly Campbellstown. During his first raid into 
Pennsylvania. October, 1S62, the Confederate 
cavalry leader, Stuart, came up from the Potomac 
through Merccrsburg, reachetl the Phihulelphia- 
Pittshuijih Pike here, and followed it eastward to 
ChamlHisinirg. On the right-hand side of the 
road, about ;Vj-mile west of St. Thomas, are three 
great weeping willows, probably the largest on 
this route across Pennsylvania. 

One of the most interesting developments of 
Colonial times, was a chain of frontier forts (so- 
called, in reality a series of stockades and forti- 
fied cabins), erected between the Delaware and 
Sustpuhanna rivers, along the general line of the 
Kittarinny or North Mountain, and Tuscarora 
range, to the Potomac river, to protect the settle- 
ments in I'ennsylvania and Maryland after Brad- 
dock's defeat in 1755. That chain, if in existence 
today, would be crossed by our present route in 
the vicinity of St. Thomas, as forts Littleton, 
Shirley and McCord were north of the turnpike, 
while forts Loudon, .McDowell antl Steel, in Penn- 
svlvania. and torts Frederick ami CnmlHiland, in 



•Cr^ 






ChAMBEBSBURC FOUNDED *.D.I78<. 
KunitlD BY unci CAVAIBY JUIY 30.A.D.H64. 



■ UllOINCt S37. 
VAIUI or ll(«l tlTAT( t7IS.fM.34 

vAiu[ or nnioiui mopckty iaisj37.z4* 

. V 1 






Pbolo by Mumper. CbamlteTsbur/i 

CLOSE VIEW OF MEMORIAL STONE. SOUTHWEST CORNER 
OK SQUARE, CHAMBERSBURG, PA. 



Maryland, were southwest, on the way to the Po- 
tomac. None of these old defenses now remain, 
but we will pass within a mile and a half of Fort 
Loudon; and the next place on our route commem- 
orates it. 

Through Fort Loudon Villagk 

On the lett, a half mile beyond the three willows, 
a prominent road branches southwest. That, fol- 
lowed about four miles, would bring one to the 
site of McDowell's Mill, afterwards better known 
as Fort McDowell, on the west branch of the 
Conococheague, at the settlement now known as 
Bridgeport, but hardly worth a detour to see. 
Continuing straight ahead along the main high- 
way, we notice, on the right in the nearing dis- 
tance, a high peak known since Colonial times as 
ParnelTs Knob, and so named on old maps of this 
section. Here the Kitattinny or North Moun- 
tain range, which has been practically continuous 
from the Delaware and Susquehanna rivers, ter- 
minates in a bold, exposed peak, rising about 
1,200 feet above the roadway, distant only a trifle 
over a mile. 

On the opposite (south) side, just west of where 
one passes ParnelTs Knob, is a by-road leading 
down to the site of Fort Loudon, also on the Con- 
ococheague, within a mile or so of the through 
route. Many tourists make this side-trip, atten- 
tion to which is called by a stone marker in the 
angle of the highwa\- and the short road to the 
tort. 1 his was not only the most important 
frontier tletense in this region, but also on the cir- 
cuitous route followed by the Forbes expedition 
against Fort DuQuesne in 1758. While that 
route used the general alignment of the present 
road, it made several deviations, notably in this 
section, where it took a northerly course from 
forts McDowell and Loudon to Fort Lyttleton, 
and thence west, avoiding the climb over Tusca- 
rora or Cove Mountain, to which we are shortly 
to come. 

The name of that old tort is more properly 
spelled Loudoun, after Lord Loudoun, comman- 
der-in-chief ot the British forces during the early 
part of the old French war. Loudoun St., \\ in- 
chester St.,\ a., retains the original spelling; here 
and m the nearby \ ilhige it has been shortened to 
Loudon. Continuing about a mile and a quarter 
past the side-road to the site of the fort, we cross 
an iron bridge over the west branch of the Con- 
ococheague, and come to an important fork, in 
which is set a large granite boulder, with ;i bronze 
tablet, in the form of a keystone, with this in- 
scription: 



76 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



FORTiLOUDON 

Erected by Colonel John Armstrong in the 
winter of 1756, by the order of the Province of 
Pennsylvania, was situated a mile southeast of 
this spot. 

The fort was built for the protection of the 
frontiers against the Indians, and took the place 
of the Fort at McDowell's Mills, which was situ- 
ated at Bridgeport. Fort Loudon was the scene 
of many thrilling events during the Indian raids 
in this region. During the expedition of Gen- 
eral John Forbes in 1758, and that of Colonel 
Henry Bouquet in 176,i-4. this fort was used as a 
rendezvous for troops and as a base of supplies. 
It was the scene of the exploits of Captain James 
Smith and his "Black Boys" in 1765. Before 
the building of the State Road to Pittsburgh, 
it was the point of departure of great trains of 
pack-horses loaded with goods for the West and 
South. 

Erected by the Pennsylvania Historical Com- 
mission, the Enoch Brown Association and the 
citizens of this place, 1915. 

This little village in the wilds of Franklin Co., 
Pa., almost literally surrounded by mountains, 
was the nearest important settlement to the old 
fort; hence the name. Through here, the cele- 
brated Indian trail known in history as "Kitta- 
tanning Path," led from the Potomac and lower 
Conococheague settlements to the Allegheny 
rivernorth of Pittsburgh, a fact perpetuated in the 
name of the Path Valley, through which the west 
branch of the Conococheague winds for several 
miles north of our route. Shortly after the Rev- 
olution, a son of Col. Chambers, founder of Cham- 
bersburg, erected a forge here to take advantage 
of the water power. 

Before the improved road was constructed be- 
yond here, wagon freight brought as far as Fort 
Loudon had to be transferred to pack-horses for 
the remaining distance to the Ohio. When the 
pack-horse trail was superseded by the improved 
section of the present route west of Tuscarora- 
Mountain, this village became a prominent stop- 
ping place for stage-coach travel. During that 
era it was widely known for the manufacture ot 
whips, like Westfield, Mass., today, though of 
course on a much smaller scale; and also had wag- 
on and blacksmith shops. Thomas A. Scott, who 
in 1860 became vice-president of the Pennsyl- 
vania R.R., was during the Civil War in charge of 
railway operations for the Federal Government 
in the war zone, and afterwards president of the 
railroad company, was born in Fort Loudon De- 
cember 28, 1824". 

Keeping to the right of the small park, with the 
tablet flanked by cannon, we cross the Cumber- 





Pbolo by Foibes (jTiinjU Co., CbtimlmtsbuTg 

HISTORIC MARKER, FORT LOUDON VILLAGE. PA. 

As seen traveling from east to west along the Lincoln Highway. The 
lettering is reproduced in type in the left hand column 

land Valley R.R. (southern Penna. branch), the 
last sign of steam transportation until we come 
along the Raystown branch, Juniata river near 
Everett, on the other side ot the first mountains. 
By the highway over which we have come, the 
distance back to Chambersburg is only 1.^.4 miles, 
against 22.6 miles by the railroad, which takes a 
circuitous course to the south, with a spur to Mer- 
cersburg. 

West of the railroad, our highway crosses the 
narrow Path or Tuscarora valley, almost as level 
as a floor. Looking back across same, and over 
the west branch of Conococheague creek, we see 
Jordan's Knob, similar to, but not as high as Par- 
nell's Knob east of Fort Loudon village. Fhis is 
a picturesque escarpment at the point where the 
southwestern edge of North Mountain turns or 
folds back into the Path valley, out of which we 
are about to climb by a steeper grade than any 
encountered heretofore on this trip. 

Crossing Tuscarora Summit 

Glancing ahead from this level stretch, the 
tourist will see Tuscarora or Cove Mountain 
looming up tremendously in the distance, and 
may wonder how difficult the crossing of it will be. 
Accidents are very rare. One only needs to be 
sure that the car is in good condition, especially 
the brakes, strictly observe the rules ot the road, 



77 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



and keep a sharp lookout tor vehicles coniing tioni 
the opposite direction, particularly under full 
headway, perhaps carelessly driven. 

The ascent from the east is about four miles, 
with no turns or very sharp curves; the net rise in 
this distance is about 1,3(X) feet. A signboard at 
the top gives the elevation as 2,240 feet, but on 
the U. S. Geological Survey (Mercersburg quad- 
rangle), it is shown as about 2,1(X). While sev- 
eral ranges farther west are higher, no grades for 
the distance are steeper than those on this moun- 
tain, due to the fact that there are fairly deep 
valleys on either side of it, whereas the others rise 
principally fri)m plateaus considerably higher. 

1 hough known as Tuscarora or Cove Moun- 
tain, the former is probably the true Indian and 
more correct name, derived from the luscarora 
tribe, the sixth nation of Iroquios. after whom 
the Tuscarora trail south and north through this 
section of Pennsylvania was called. The word 
"cove" IS freciuently used in the .'\lleghames to 
describe some sheltered valley, to which a local 
name is given. McConnellsburg, the next town, 
is in what is known as the "Big Cove," surround- 
ed ii\ mountains. 

People ot older generations would frequently 
express their intention of going "over to the 
Cove;" in time this came to mean over Cove 
Mountain, from which the name was probably 
derived. 

Along the crest of Tuscarora Mountain runs 
the boundary between Franklin and 1' iilton coun- 
ties, extending to the Maryland hue. 1 he moun- 
tain gradually decreases in size farther southwest; 
and comes to an end just north of the Potomac at 
Hancock, Md. Splendid views are had from the 
roadway; and many more reward one searching 
for other points of vantage nearby. 

Old buildings, some undoubtedly taverns or 
wagon-stantls in stage-coach and freight-traftic 
days, are occasion;illy seen, usually with nothing 
to identify them. On the right (north) side at 
the summit are the ruins of what was probably ;i 
roadhouse within comparatively recent times. 

Down Into and Through McConnellsburc; 

More care is required on the western slope than 
the eastern side; the grades average steeper, and 
there are several sharp curves, one nearly a 
"horseshoe." In less than three miles, we de- 
scend to 955 feet at the point where the highwa\ 
from Baltimore or Wiishington through \\ ayius- 
boro, Cireencastle, Mercersburg and up through 
Cove Gap (Koltz) comes into this route, ' ^-mi'e 
east of McConnellsburg. A signboard in the 
angle gives the name, Waynesboro, Greencastle 
and Mercersburg Turnpike; and indicates the way 
to the birthplace of James Buchanan, southeast 
b}/^ miles along that route. 

This diagonal road from the left owes its im- 
portance to the improved thoroughfare from 
McConnellsburg through Bedford to Pittsburgh. 
Until about 1800. it was expected that the main 
highway from the Chesapeake-Potomac region to 
the head of the Ohio would be over the 



Baltimore-Cumberland Turnpike to Cumber- 
land; thence by the route which subsequentlv be- 
came the National Road as far as the summit of 
Laurel Hill, a few miles east of Uniontown, and 
the Braddock Road the remaining distance. 
But iiraddock's route between Laurel Hill and 

I urtle creek fell into disuse, and the National 
Road found its principal Ohio River terminus at 
\\ heeling, somewhat to the disadvantage of Pitts- 
burgh. 

1 hereupon part of the travel and commerce 
from Baltimore and Washington began to be di- 
verted from nearly direct west through .Maryland 
northwest into !'enns\ Kani.i, using the second 
half of the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh Pike to reach 
the confluence of the Monongahela and Alle- 
ghany rivers. This traffic merged with that 
from Philadelphia, Lancaster and \'ork, to which 
was added most of the travel from or though 
Harrisburg and Carlisle to Pittsburgh or beyond. 

1 he incre:ised number of taverns found, even to- 
day, on the next section of the route, is thus 
partly accounted for. 

W'e come quickly into the main street of Mc- 
Connellsburg, and continue straight through over 
a fairly level stretch, soon crossing Big Cove 
creek, eastern tributary of i-icking creek, whose 
main stre;im will be crossed at Harrisonville, a few 
miles farther on. The elevation is now a trifle 
under 900 feet. M:ips of this section are only 
approxim:itely correct, as the next 22 miles have 
not been surveyed either by the Federal Govern- 
ment or the State. 

Up to three or four years ago, there stood on the 
right-hand side, just beyond the bridge but before 
the side-road branching right, an old toll-house 
whose superstructure was built entirely across 
the highwa\-. Nothing like it can now be found 
along the route; tourists having made the trip 
prior to 1916 may recall it. After the toll road 
had been purchased, the overhead part of the 
house was torn away; the dwelling part, moved 
b;ick and remodeled, is now a private residence. 
On the western outskirts of .McConnellsburg, 
the highway takes a northwesterly direction, for 
a favorable approach to the next r;mge. About 
a half mile west of the bridge, one comes to very 
sharp left and right curves, by which the route 
passes mostly around the foot of Little Scrub 
Ridge. Before beginning the moderate ascents 
here, it w ill he worth while to look back over the 
intervening lowhmd and the top of McConnells- 
burg to luscarora or Cove .Mountain, crossed 
l>erhaps less than ten minutes before. 1 he im- 
mense bulk of that range is now most impressive; 
and helps to explain why early travel preferred to 
follow the longer but easier way from Fort Lou- 
den north into the valley of the west branch of 
the Juniata, before turning west. 

Passing over the moderate grade caused by the 
slight projection of Little Scrub Ridge across our 
route, we come to the eastern foot of Scrub Ridge. 

1 he ascent of this is short but rather steep; from 
the summit (1452 feet) interesting views unfold. 

Through openings in the tree-tops, McConnells- 



7S 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



liurg, 33/9 miles back, may still be seen in clear 
weather. Looking ahead, about twenty miles 
of the Licking Valley (from here to Sideling Hill) 
are within vision. 

We descend the western slope of Scrub Ridge, 
and near the foot cross Patterson run, another 
tributary of Licking creek. In the next two 
miles we go over a minor ridge, with sharp curves 
on both sides, crossing the mam stream of Lick- 
ing creek, largest in the locality, at the eastern 
edge of Harrisonville. This waterway, from 
which the valley was named, and its branches, 
drain a considerable area; after flowing through 
southern Pennsylvania and across about the nar- 
rowest part of Maryland, it enters the Potomac 
west of Clear Spring on the National Road. 

Originally Licking creek village, this place was 
renamed Harrisonville after Gen. William Henry 
Harrison, victor of Tippecanoe, during his term 
as president. It is a typical old-time mountain 
hamlet. The valley here has an elevation of only 
782 feet, a trifle less than McConnellsburg; and 
is the lowest point on the highway until it de- 
scends the other side of the main Alleghany range. 

Glimpses of Old Mountain taverns 

On the right (north) side, 1 4-10 miles west of 
Harrisonville, is the Green Hill House, the first of 
several well-preserved taverns in this section. It 
is a frame building, erected probably in 1838, and 
afterwards covered with stucco. Until about six 
years ago this house was a toll-gate on the former 
toll road. It is now a dwelling owned by James 
A. Stewart, who conducts a road house, serving 
meals and providing accommodations for a few 
travelers, on a smaller scale than when it was a 
prominent overnight stop on the great Phila- 
delphia-Pittsburgh highway. 

On the right, 8-10 mile beyond the Green Hill ' 
House, is the stone building known for many years 
as Mann's Old Tavern, a large and once popular 
stopping-place for stage-coaches. It was built 
probably about 1838 or '40, to better accommo- 
date travel passing over this stretch between 
Pittsburgh, Harrisburg, Philadelphia and Balti- 
more just before the railway era. The building, 
covered with stucco, is now the Saluvia, Fulton 
Co., P. O. 

Asking a native why so many of these old tav- 
erns have been plastered on the outside, taking 
away much of their original character and making 
them similar in general appearance, the writer was 
intormed that at one time the stucco was supposed 
to be more up-to-date, the purpose being to cover 
the rough stone work, and give an artificially 
finished effect. A passing judgment would be 
that the outside plaster is a serious detriment, 
especially when broken in spots or deteriorated 
with age. The new owner of one old house of 
this type had the stucco removed, and the 
original rough stone work dressed with new 
mortar, restoring the original character of the 
building and making it much more attractive. 

The comparatively level stretch here is a wide 
depression between Scrub Ridge and Sideling 



Hill, the next range west. On the right (north) 
side, 1 3-10 miles beyond Saluvia P. O., is 
Reamer's, one of the oldest tavern properties re- 
maining on this part of the route (erected about 
1820). This is also a stone building, but not 
having been plastered, the original appearance has 
been better preserved. Reamer's was a tavern 
and stage-office; its location, at the eastern foot 
of Sideling Hill, was a convenient stop for old- 
time travel; and tradition says that it enjoyed 
good patronage. 

To AND Across Sideling Hill 

Several mountain streams have their source 
near this section of the highway, flowing from it 
in opposite directions, north and east to the 
Juniata, or south and west to the Potomac. No 
westward-flowing waters are encountered until 
we cross the main Alleghany range, considerably 
farther along. 




A wayside stop, 1903 

Paul C. Wolff, Secretary Pennsylvania Motor Federation and Automo- 
bile Club of Pittsburgh, in front of Reamer's old tavern, Bedford Co., 
Pennsylvania 

Looking west. Sideling Hill looms up, huge and 
formidable, directly in our path. To gain the 
top it will be necessary to ascend about 1300 
feet in the next three miles, with several sharp 
curves (caution advised). The distance is a 
trifle less, and the grade very similar to that up 
Tuscarora or Cove Mountain; it begins from a 
somewhat more elevated base, and the summit is 
about as much higher. 

The name is said to have been taken from the 
comment of either Indians or pioneer settlers 
about this being a "side-long" hill; that exact 
lettering is found at times in the old records, 
"Sideling" being a comparatively modern ren- 
dering. Extensive and beautiful views from the 
slopes, and especially from the top, include large 
areas of wild land and primeval forest, too far 
from transportation facilities to have suffered 
from extensive lumbering. Here, more than on 
Cove Mountain, opening eastward into the warmer 
Cumberland valley, we observe changes in the 
flora of the route. Diversified vegetation of 



79 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



lower altitudes becomes rarer; and cone-bearing 
trees are more conspicuous. P'orests ot chestnut, 
pine, locust, hemlock, oak, walnut and patches 
of tamarack, in the swampy places, extend as far 
as the eye can see. 

Travelers over the National Road will recall 
encountering on the eastern slope of Sidelmg 
Hill a few miles west of Hancock, Md., the steep- 
est grades between Hagerstown and Cumberland. 
The more southerly route was cut in the general 
direction of the Potomac, though at times miles 
from it, by Indians employed by Col. Ihomas 
Cresap of Oldtown, Maryland, for the Ohio 
Company, some years before the old French war. 

Law Enforcement on the Old Frontier 

After the battle of Bushy Run, north of Greens- 
burg, where Pontiac's Rebellion was broken in 
Pennsylvania in 1763, trade with the western 




/•' 



. I.j / / a;. ( Hurv. H,,/J., 



lOKK OF TWO MOUNTAIN IIIGIIWAVS 

Looking cast from the ciistcrn Toot of Ray's HilL The unimproved 
road on the left follows the old trail past the site of Fort Littleton, some 
miles north of our route, to ShippensburtJ, Carlisle and Harrisburj;. 
On the ri^ht is the Lincoln Highway, winding alonj; an intermediate 
small ridce toward Sideling Hill, in the farther baek(;r()und, invisible 
because the view is cut off. In the angle is the Mountain Home Motel, 
successor t*> Macllvainc's of the stage-coach era 

Indians was temporarily forbidden by the Prov- 
ince. Notwithstanding this, in the spring of 
1765, several loads of goods, including tomahawks, 
scalping knives and ammunition, were sent by 
unscrupulous traders as tar as Conococheagiie 
creek in wagons, and loaded on pack-horses for 
the remainder of the jouiTiey across the moun- 
tains. 

Fearing that these goods, in the hands of In- 
dians, might be turned against the settlements, 
about fifty armed men met the caravan near the 
present site of Mercersburg, and endi.avored to 
stop it by persuasion. 1 hey were unsuccessful, 
and the pack-horse train continued its slow way 
across Tuscarora Mountain to Sideling Hill. 
Thereupon William Durticld selected ten front- 



iersmen most accustomed to the ways of Indian 
fighting, blacked and painted them and pushed 
ahead by a roundabout route to an ambush along 
the trail on this hill. 

When the expedition came along, it was at- 
tacked by these few nun; the traders were glad 
to escape with their lives and a little personal 
property, leaving most of their stock to be burned 
on the spot. Consideraiile legal trouble and some 
conflict of authority followed; but the prohibition 
against trading with the Indians w'as more easily 
enforced afterward. It is not known just where 
the ambush took place, but probably nearby the 
present route. 

We descend Sideling llill by a downgrade of 
two miles, but with fewer curves than on the lon- 
ger eastern slopes. Looking over to the right when 
nearing the foot, the tourist may see the old road 
from the Cumberland valley at Shippensburg 
through Fannettsburg, Burnt C;ibins and Fort 
Lyttleton, coming into this route, the two coin- 
ciding for the remaining distance to Everett and 
Bedford. 

This IS a shorter way to Carlisle and Harnsburg 
than through Chambersburg and up the Cumber- 
land valley; and avoids the steep grades of Tusca- 
rora Mountain and Sideling Hill. But it has 
never been improved, :md is used principally to 
reach a few intermediate settlements. Many 
years ago drovers would often go that way to avoid 
the Pike tolls to ChamJHrsburg. 

Facing the main road at the intersection is the 
.Mountain Home Hotel, a 3-story building of 
modern appearance. Its exterior boarding cov- 
ers logs which formed the principal structure of 
Macllvaine's well-known and popular tavern of 
stage-coach days. For the best view ot it and the 
diverging roads, one traveling west should turn 
;i round ;ind l(H)k east, the way the accompanying 
photograph was taken. 

It will be noticed that the unimproved road 
goes almost directly up the hill in the background, 
while the Lincoln Highway takes the grade in an 
easier way. This is part of the trunk line of tele- 
graph poles across the State, the greater number 
of wires following the unimproved shorter route 
eastward. 

Over Ray's Hill into the Juniata X'alley 

Now begins a short, rather steep ascent of the 
eastern slope of Ray's Hill, reaching the top at an 
elevation of 1955 feet. Along the crest, nearly 
north ;inil south, runs the boundary between Ful- 
ton and iietltord counties. A tine view of the 
western slope of Sideling Hill mav be h;id back in 
a northeasterly direction across the intervening 
depression from the summit of Ray's Hill. 

Ray, whose name is met frequently in the his- 
tory of this section, was a settler in the vicinity ot 
Bedford about 1751; that place was at first called 
after him. I his last range before reaching the 
Juniata was probably named the same way. 
Passing over the crest of Ray's Hill, there is a 
gradual descent into the Juniata v;ilie\. the broad 
outlines of w hich now begin to untold. 



SO 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



In 2 8-10 miles from tht- smnmit tt) the village 
of Breezewood, the drop is a trifle less than 600 
feet. Considerable re-alignments have been 
made on the highway in this vicinity, to secure a 
shorter line and easier grades. From an elevation 
of 1364 at Breezewood, the descent continues rap- 
idly to 982 at the Juniata, only 1 8-10 miles farther 
west. 

The waterway crossed here is the Raystown 
branch, whose main stream is considerably to the 
north, more in the section traversed by the Will- 
iam Penn Highwav. Before this Chambersburg- 
Bedford-Pittsburgh route was cut through and 
made passable as a whole, there was considerable 
exploration, travel and primitive commerce up 
the Susquehanna river past the site of Harrisburg 
into the Juniata, whose long circuitous course 
avoided the several mountain ranges east of here. 
Making a sharp soLitherly bend from the main 
stream near the present Huntingdon, the Rays- 
town branch followed a well-defined valley down 
to this section. 

Old Trail and Modern Highway Coincide 

Often in looking over old records, one finds a 
reference to "the lands near the head of the Ju- 
niata, along the path that leads to the Ohio." 
What the casual reader may consider a conven- 
ient but indefinite figure of speech is, in fact, a 
most interesting phrase of accurate description. 
Here the headwaters of the Juniata cross and 
continue for miles along part of the old trading 
path to the West, transformed into a modern 
highway. 

How little the alignment of this portion has 
changed in more than 160 vears is best evidenced 
b\' the fact that from here through Everett into 
Bedford the tourist of today could follow the map 
made for the Forbes expedition of 1758 about as 
easily as a modern survey. The old distances are 
also remarkably correct. In 17S-i George Croghan, 
a famous Indian trader and scout living on the 
west side of the Susquehanna not far from the 
present Harrisburg, made a report to the Colonial 
authorities of Pennsylvania on the distances from 
his location to the Ohio, which he had traveled 
several times. 

"From Juniata Creek at ye Crossings to Rays- 
town" (now Bedford), Croghan gave as 14 miles, 
half a mile less than odometer measurements be- 
tween the same points. Nothing could be more 
expressive or appropriate than the name, "Juniata 
Crossings," as known to the Forbes expedition, 
to the drivers of stage-coaches and freight-wagons 
during the busy days of the old highway, and so 
called to this day. Next to the Susquehanna at 
Columbia, it is the widest stream on this trip. 

Evolution ok a Famous Crossing 

For many years, the only means of crossing 
here was by primitive ferry, replaced in time by a 
famous "chain bridge." The date of its erection 
IS uncertain, but it stood for many years some dis- 
tance below the present one. In place of cables, 
as in modern suspension bridges, large chains 



spanned the river; on one side these were 
anchored to great rocks, and on the other to a 
stone pier, part of which still remains. The 




From orii^inal in Historical Society of Penn\\liania, Pbiludclphia 

PART OF MAP MADE FOR THE FORBES EXPEDITION (1758) 

Compare this old map with the corresponding section of recent detailed 
maps, across pages 48 4^. What the topographer of 1758 indicated as 
"Col. Burd's Road" became the start of the "Old Glade Road" 
(branching south from the main highway iust beyond Wolfsburg, west 
of Bedford, page 48). Everett was not then laid out 



81 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




From -ikeub by E. H. Blackburn, Betljord 
UNUSUAL SHAPE OF COVERED BRIDGF. ACROSS RAVSTOWN 
BRANCH, JUNIATA RIVER, AT JUNIATA CROSSINGS 

original road at the "lower crossing" may vet he 
distinctlv traced, and marks of wheels deeply cut 
into solid rock are still visihle evidence of the 
heavy wagon trafhc which once passed over this 
route. 

The older part ot the present long covered 
bridge, 185 feet total span, was erected by the 
Bedford & Chambersburg Turnpike Co., when the 
hrst improved road was put through in 1814-1.5, 
though it mav not have been entirely completed 
until ISIS, ()riginally it was a double wooden 
structure throughout, built of very heavy tim- 
bers, as noticed by the tourist. About 1884 or 
'85, the eastern end, being most exposed to the 
current, was destroyed by ice or flood; and re- 
placed by a single wooden section in 1885. 

This was about midway between the time when 
wagon trafhc disappeared from the road, and the 
coming of the automobile. As a result, this 
bridge remains today a relic of two former eras in 
transportation, the eastern enil only half as wide 
as the older western end. I he narrowing takes 
place in the middle of the stream, where the light 
is not good; and as in the absence of a toot-bridge, 
pedestrians are obliged to use it, caution is neces- 
sary, especially in traveling eastward. 

McCiRAw's Oi.n Iavkrn 

On the right side of the road, just beyond the 
western portal of the covered bridge, is one of the 
t)ldest, most interesting taverns standing along 
the route. Some place of accommodation tor 
travelers has been located on tli;it site continu- 
ously since 1795. It is said that Hugh Dennison, 
one of a family of early settlers, erected the pres- 
ent building in 1818, soon after the completion ot 
the through Pike. 

It is a large three-story structure, ot native 
stone, situated upon the north bank ot the ri\er, 
near its bend westward, amid wild, romantic 
scenery. At the height of the stage-coach era, it 
was one of the most famous hostelries on the route. 
George McCiraw was hindlord here in the 40s, and 
probably later. In time the place became widely 
known as "McGraw's;" or in the lingo of the old 
drivers, "McCiraw's at the Crossings," linking 
the names of the hotel and loc;ility together in a 
single descriptive phrase. 

1 radition says that this laiullonl kejit a good 
house, very p(>pular and well patronized; a very 
few still remember it under that management. 
McGraw was also the owner of a large farm, and 
extensively engaged in stock-raising. He died 
in Bedford Co. about 1877, Like nearly all old 
taverns, this w;is finalK Kft without patronage, 



and the great majority of modern travelers pass 
by without stop. Judging from appearances, it 
might easily be turned into a modern hotel. 

Along the Juni.'vta to Everett 

Continuing westward, the motorist follows a 
nearly level road along the north side of the stream 
past well-kept and highly productive farms. At 
times the river is bordered by majestic trees whose 
shadows spread upon the limpid waters. In some 
places the valley is comp;iratively wide; then it 
contracts to little more than a "narrows" for the 
stream with the road crowded in. 1 he very 
name, "Juniata," has a rythmical sound; and one 
is tempted to plan a subsequent trip along the 
main stream by the \\illi;im Penn Highway to 
see more of it. 

For a long time these were the frontier lands 
of the Province; and suffered great depredations. 
After Braddock's defeat, Indians in league with 
the French swept the Pennsylvania and Maryland 
frontiers; and practically destroyed all the settle- 
ments in this region, forcing survivors to flee to or 
east of the Cumberland valley. The success of 
the Forbes expedition in 1758 helped to hold these 
raids in check, but tran(]uility was not restored 
for many years, (jradually it was settled again; 
and now it is as peaceful a locality as one would 
care to see, inhabited from all appearances by 
prosperous and contented people, many of them 
descendants of the pioneers. 

Several old stone buildings are noticed along 




Pholo_by_F. E. MiCrcary, BedlorJ 

Ol I) COVl RID BRIDGE AT "JUNIATA CROSSINGS" 

view looking cJist, sliowing double roadway at weslerii end, and Rlinmse 
of single portal at the farther end. Sec accompanying diagram. The 
^ig^ "Juniata Crossings" is in front of McGraw's oUj hotel (on left-hand 
si<le, just out of the picture). For view of the entire bridge, see illus- 
tration top page I 5. 



82 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




I'huto by /■. ;■- A/,( icuii, Htdliird 

ALONG.THELINCOLN HIGHWAY ABOUT TWO AHLES EAST OF BEDFORD. PA. 

In the foreground, Raystown branch, Juniata River, crossed 1 6-10 miles east of Bedford by iron bridge seen in extreme left-hand side of pic- 
ture. In the center is Evitts Mountain, cut here by the river but rising to greater heights a short distance south. On the extreme right, 
the highway is seen crossing lesser hills on the way to Everett 



the roadside on the G] 2 miles from Juniata 
Crossings to Everett. Some of these were un- 
doubtedly taverns or wagon-stands in the busy 
days of the turnpike; but none are as large or 
occupy such a commending site as "McGraw's." 
2}-2 miles west of the Crossings, the road makes a 
sharp right turn at the water's edge; just beyond 
on the south (left) side, is an abandoned stone 
building which probably once served as a toll- 
house. Its former usefulness gone, and not easily 
adapted for other purposes. 

The stream shortly takes a southward detour, 
considerably below our route, but soon makes a 
graceful loop back. We follow the main road 
past the Everett cemetery, on the left, into the 
principal street of Everett. Located between 
Juniata Crossings and Bedford, this place is of 
much less historical importance than either of 
them; in the olden days it was known as "Bloody 
Run," from some sangLiinary happening on the 
frontier. A writer about stage-coach days men- 
tions three taverns in Everett. It is now a sub- 
stantial and attractive place of about 2000 popu- 
lation. 

We continue out W. Main St., between rows of 
silver leaf maples, past a short covered bridge on 
the left a half a mile beyond the town. On the 
south side of the river here is an industrial com- 
munity adjacent to Everett, known as Earlston, 
in which are the iron furnaces owned by Hon. 
Joseph E. Thropp, former representative in 
Congress from this district, who is said to be the 
largest individual manufacturer of pig iron in the 
United States, all other iron works being con- 
trolled by corporations or partnerships. "Earl- 
ston" is Mr. Thropp's middle name. 

He IS a great-grandson of Sir James Wood, 
once the largest coal and iron factor in Great 
Britain, owning some 32 collieries and large iron 
works. Mr. Thropp also has large furnaces at 



Saxton, about 20 miles northeast (farther down 
the Raystown branch of the Juniata), coal mines 
and coke ovens on his 5,000 acres of coal lands. 

Between two Great Coal Basins 

Over to the right about this point, one will see 
the Huntingdon & Broad Top Mountain R.R., 
coming into our route at Mount Dallas station, 
1 3-10 miles from Everett — the first steam trans- 
portation since Fort Loudon, 35 miles back. It 
connects with the Juniata division, Pennsylvania 
R.R., extending down to Cumberland, Maryland, 
providing a northward outlet for the Cumberland 
coal region. 

Broad Top Mountain, from which this rail- 
road was named, is a range or chain of low peaks, 
with a level or flat top, in eastern Bedford Co., 
some miles north of our route. That section is 
traversed by the Kelley, Barnet and Eulton coal 
seams, probably with a small percentage of the 
celebrated Pittsburgh seam extending that far 
east. In 1852, less than two years after the 
main line of the Pennsylvania R.R. had been 
built west through Huntingdon, a road to the 
Broad Tops was chartered, and part of it opened 
the same year; it was ctmtinued to Mount Dallas 
in 1867 and to the Maryland line in 1S72. 

This section of the Lincoln Highway runs about 
midway between the Broad lop, Pennsylvania, 
and Cumberland, Maryland, coal basins. Look- 
ing up some local history, the writer found a news 
item (April, 1805) stating that a coal mine had 
been found along the Juniata about 25 miles 
southwest of Huntingdon, which would be in 
about the section traversed by this route. It 
said that two laborers with a cart and pair of 
oxen could dig and carry to the river 120 bushels 
a day; and that the price at the river bank was 
eight cents a bushel. 



83 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Thk "Harti.hy Farm" 

We continiR- under the high railroad trestle by 
which tracks leading from the turnaces are con- 
nected with the Pennsylvania R.R.. and come to 
Mount Dallas station, in the low pass where 
Tussey Mountain is cut through hy this branch 
of the Juniata. Probably the place was named 
from Hon. (leorge M. Dallas, diplomat and vice- 
president of the United States during the admin- 
istration of James K. Polk. lS45-'49. Just be- 
yond is a farm, which for several generations 
belonged to the Hartley family, but is now owned 
by Mr. I bropp. 

Upon it, "Light Horse Harry" Lee camped 
with about 6,C)()0 troops accompanying l'|^'^'- 
dent Washington en route to suppress the "\\ bis- 
key Insurrection" in Western Pennsylvania 
(1794). At Fort Bedford, about 6 miles farther 
west, the first president was met by commission- 
ers representing the insurgents; and the hostile^ 
movement was soon overcome by this show ot 
Federal military force. On his return, Wash- 
ington stayed overnight in the stone and frame 
farmhouse here; during the evening he played 
backgammon with Mrs. Hartley, grandmother 
of Mrs. Bretz, who will leave the backgammon 
board, dice and checkers used on that occasion to 
the present owner ot the farm. 

In this house, Alexander Hamilton and his 
daughter once stayed; it was also visited by 
Vice-President Dallas and other distinguished 
guests. Mr. Thropp jilans to erect a bronze 
tablet on the wall in front of the farmhouse, 
giving the points of historical interest in connec- 
tion with the place. Two deeds to this farm 
(about 1753) one signed by Robert Morris, after- 
wards financier of the Revolution, and the other 
bv Benjamin Franklin, show that these two great 
men were imbued with the spirit of seeking wh;it 
was then the frontier (the eastern foothills of the 
Alleghanies) about a century before Horace 



(ireeley advised young men to "Go West." It 
is understood that these deeds and perhaps other 
papers of historical value are to be preserved un- 
der glass and placed for convenient inspection. 

Last Stretch into Bedford 

Beyond Mount Dalhis. the stream makes an- 
other considerable bend to the south, the high- 
wa^■ keeping straight ahead through a rolling sec- 
tion. Along this stretch, about 4 miles east of 
Bedford, still stands a large willow, in the trunk 
of which a jiipe was once inserted to tap the water 
flowing from a spring underneath. ^ ears ago. 
motorists often stopped for a drink of refreshing 
water; but it has gone dry. 

After gradually returning to our route, the 
Raystown br;mch of the Juniata is crossed (1 6-10 
miles east of Bedford) by a 150-foot iron bridge. 
Its predecessor was known as "Bedford Bridge" 
to distinguish it from the Juniata Crossings, about 
1.1 miles east. Originally the stream was spanned 
here by a covered wood bridge erected by the 
Bedford & Chambersburg Turnpike Co., about 
1814-T5. That was burned, probably by an in- 
cendiary, about 20 years ago, and replaced by the 
present iron structure erected by the county. 

This crossing is at a very pictures(]ue spot, 
where the river has cut its way through a low 
pass of Kvitts Mountain, leaving a series of low 
cliffs by the roadside. A short distance north, 
the Juniata is joined, in an almost perfect triangle, 
by the waters of Dunning creek, which drains a 
considerable area above the route. At the far- 
ther end of the bridge, the road crosses the Jun- 
i;ita Division. Pennsylvania R.R.. and turns right 
in front of a stone toll-house, one of the best- 
preserved along the entire route but abandoned. 
After a short straightaway, now along the south 
side of the river, the highway becomes E. Pitt St., 
leading to the center of Bedford. 




Pbolo tiy Paul C. WolJI. PiUsburfb 
OLD TOIL-HOUSE 1 1.-I11-M. EAST OP BEDFORD. PA., LOOKING EAST 



TvDC of stoni- building found in the cintrnl .ind wcstirn pnrts of the State. Here the highway makes t 
sharp turns to cross the Raystown branch. Juniata River, a ,Mirtion of the iron bridge being shown 



.. rp 
the left 



84 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 

Chapter VII — From Bedford to Greensburg — 67 Miles 

Across the main Alleghany Range and Laurel Hill to Ligonier, thence through the 

low pass of Chestnut Ridge, generally downgrade, toward the Ohio 



Bedford was one of the earliest permanent 
settlements in the Alleghany region of colonial 
Pennsylvania. The pioneer road through that 
locality (after the pack-horse trail, successor to 
the Indian path), was the one which the provincial 
authorities attempted to cut early in 1755 to con- 
nect the Cumberland valley with the highway 
which the Braddock expedition was then making 
from the head of Potomac navigation, now Cum- 
berland, Md., to the "Forks of the Ohio." This 
is known in history as the " Burd Road," after Col. 
James Burd, under whose direction the work 
was prosecuted the greater part of the way; and 
the principal object was to furnish Braddock's 
army with supplies from the eastern counties of 
Pennsylvania, through the Cumberland valley, 
already connected by road with Philadelphia and 
Lancaster via Harris' Ferry. 

It was expected that a junction between the 
Braddock and Burd roads would be made at or 
near the historic "Turkey Foot," where the Cas- 
selman river and Laurel Hill creek flow into the 
Youghiogheny river, the site of Confluence, Pa. 
But unexpected delays and great difficulties en- 
countered on the Burd Road, especially in se- 
curing enough woodchoppers, and keeping them 
at work while the section was exposed to Indian 
raids, and finally Braddock's defeat at the battle 
of Monongahela (July, 1755), led to the abandon- 
ment of the project. The first few miles west of 
Bedford were, however, constructed according 
to the crude practice of that period, and three 
years later formed so much of the Forbes Road. 

The latter was laid out under Forbes' instruc- 
tions, largely by Col. Henry Bouquet, against the 
advice of Washington, who argued strongly in 
favor of forming a connection with the Braddock 
Road, and following that the balance of the way. 
Being a Virginian, with a better knowledge of the 
Potomac country, and convinced that the most 
natural and easiest route to the Ohio was from 
that direction, influenced his opinion, though the 
success of the Forbes expedition and subsequent 
history proved it to have been mistaken. 

In ill health, and under the stress of a great un- 
dertaking, the Scotch general made severe com- 
ments upon Washington's ideas of the two routes, 
and even questioned his motives. But once 
Forbes had decided to cut through and follow a 
new, shorter line of travel, he had no more loval 
or capable subordinate officer than the young 
Virginian; and, had he lived long afterward, might 
have left a somewhat difl^erent opinion. 



Location of an Important Frontier Fort 

The first known settlement here was made 
about 1751, by one Ray, whose name was for 
awhile given to the place, and is still retained by 
the nearby stream, and the mountain range just 
east of Juniata Crossings. Fort Bedford was lo- 
cated along the south side of the Raystown branch 
of the Juniata, almost immediately alongside our 
route through Bedford. It was constructed pro- 
bably in 1757, as one of the frontier defenses 
after Braddock's defeat; during the Forbes ex- 
pedition of 1758 it was the principal headquarters 
east of the Alleghany summit for troops, military 
stores and supplies on the way to the Ohio. 

Among the distinguished officers here were 



iiai/s/,,:, 




forces ro.,^~iM ;;;^;7,;,;V'''%C 



Diagram showing location, form and general appearance of Fort Bed- 
ford, Bedford, Pa. The dotted line represents very nearly the route 
now followed by the motor tourist past the site 

Forbes, Washington, Bouquet, Armstrong and 
Burd; it was also the main rendezvous for an army 
of about 7.000 men. The fort was surrounded by 
quarters for officers and barracks for the soldiers. 
It embraced altogether about 7,000 square yards, 
and besides its 5 bastions, for the use of swivel 
guns, it had a gallery with loop holes extending 
from the central bastion on the north front to the 
water's edge, commanding the banks of the 
stream. The main gate was on the south side; 
and, parallel with the southern rampart, was 
Forbes Road, now W. Pitt St., part of the modern 
highway. 

The site was admirable; and the method of con- 
struction made the stockades formidable for that 



85 




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The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



period, its piincipal framework consisted ol 
unseasoned oak or other strong logs, not easily 
set on fire and difficult to cut through. These 
logs, about 18 feet long and pointed at the top, 
were placed alongside in an upright position. 
Iheir sides were hewn flat, and after being placed 
close together, were fastened at the top bv hori- 
zontal pieces of timber, spiked or pinned on the 
inside, making the whole interior firm and strong. 

Platforms were constructed all around the in- 
ner side of the enclosure, perhaps 4 or 5 feet 
from the ground. Upon these, in case of attack, 
the garrison stood and fired through loop holes 
made at convenient heights above the platforms. 
Port holes were cut on either side ot the bastions 
for the swivel guns. Fort Bedford was also pro- 
tected on the south and west sides by a moat 
about 8 feet deep and 10 feet wide at the bottom, 
gradually widening to about 15 feet at the top. 

On the north side, the stream afforded the 
necessary protection, while the contour of the 
ground furnished a natural defense on the east 
side. The great mass of earth taken from the 
moats was thrown outward, and graded to an 
easy slope, up which any attacking force would be 
obliged to approach against fire from within the 
stockades. 

Notwithstanding the great value of this fort to 
the Forbes expedition, it was afterward neglected 
by the provincial authorities, and only a small 
garrison was retained there. Some use was made 
of it by Col. Bouquet's expedition against the In- 
dians in 1763. Before the Revolution it became 
a ruin, never to be rebuilt; nothing whatever now 
remains of it, and even the site still lacks a suitable 
marker. 

A trifle less than 2 miles south of Bedford, en 
route to Cumberland, are the celebrated Bedford 
Springs, a popular resort for many years. Num- 
bers of tourists make the short side-trip to the 
Bedford Springs Hotel there. 

Several old dwellings or stores on the mam 
street look as if they might have been taverns or 
wagon-stands in the olden days; but have been 
superseded by newer establishments. On the 
right-hand side of Pitt St., just west of the busi- 
ness center, is an old stone building known lo- 
cally as "Washington's Headquarters;" but the 
tradition is elusive, to say the least. The monu- 
ment to the memory of soldiers of Bedford Co. 
who lost their lives in the War of 1861-'65 is at 
the intersection of Penn and Juliana streets, one 
square south of the through highway. 

First Section West of Bedford 

We continue straight out W. Pitt St., soon 
bearing right to pass around the upper edge of 
Wills Mountain, which trends southwesterly into 
Maryland. About 30 air-line miles south it is 
cut almost in two by Wills creek, forming the 
famous "Narrows," just west of Cumberland. 
Near Woltsburg, IJo miles out, the highway 
passes thrrugh a covered bridge spanning the 
Raystown branch which, with the Juniata division 
of the Pennsylvania R.R., takes a southwesterly 



course, west of Wills Mountain; nothing more is 
seen of either on this trip. 

A short two miles west of the covered bridge, 
a prominent left-hand road starts southwest 
through Mann's Choice into southern Somerset 
Co. This is part of the Burd or "Old Glade 
Road," originally intended to connect these upper 
waters of the Juniata with the ^'oughiogheny, and 
through that with the greater Monongahela. 
Old records give it as branching from the direct 
line between 4 and 5 miles west of Raystown; the 
odometer shows 4 1-10 miles from the center of 
Bedford. 

In the southeast corner, within a few feet of 
the branching of these roads, is a large and sub- 
stantial stone building, the more interesting from 
Its location. Stopping to inquire, the writer was 
informed that it was erected more than 90 years 
ago; and was long known as "Stookey's" or the 
Stookey Hotel. Like most survivors of the 
stage-coach days, this is a private residence. It 
is an excellent example of old-time country stone- 
work, partly hidden by porches in front and on the 
sides, all comparatively modern. 

Taking final leave of the Juniata, the highway 
ascends a moderate grade and makes a correspond- 
ing descent into the narrow Quaker valley at 
Schellsburg. This little place, just under ten 
miles west of Bedford, was a convenient point 
for changing relays of horses on stage-coaches. 
Two miles beyond the village, our route goes 
through the last covered bridge on this route, over 
the Shawnee branch, Raystown branch of the 
Juniata, the last tributary of that stream. 

Old Tavern Site in Mountain Wilds 

Just beyond the covered bridge begins a long 
but only moderately steep grade up the eastern 
slope of the main Alleghany range, in the course 
of which there are several sharp curves. On the 
left, at the sharpest one of all, is a conspicuously 
high stone building commonly known as the "shot 
factory," the name arising, it is claimed, from its 
use at one time as a place from which to drop shot 
in making bullets; but that is highly improbable. 

The building was an old tavern, a product of 
the turnpike era (1820 or later), erected on that 
spot somewhat to take advantage of a fine spring 
of cold water nearby. Its unusual height prob- 
ably led someone to give it the name of "shot 
factory," which is even on the U. S. Geological 
survey map of that section. Though abandoned 
for many years, its well-built walls are standing 
in remarkably good condition. 

In his recollections of 60 years (1908), David 
Eby, of Chambersburg, a wagoner over this route, 
1849-'53, refers to this as "the high stone build- 
ing," and also mentions the "short turn" and the 
"hard pull" which westbound stage-coaches and 
freight-wagons were obliged to make m passing it. 
This the observer of the present time can readily 
confirm by a glance at the illustration in the lower 
right-hand corner, page 86. 

Across the Main Alleghany Plateau 

6-10 mile beyond is "Grand View," a point of 



87 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



osbervation over an extensive area of Bcdforii 
and Sumerset counties, mostly on the western 
side of the Allef;lian\- rans^e. (Jiiard rails protect 
traffic from approachini; too near the edge. lOwr- 
ists are advised to park their cars somewhat back 
and walk to the ledge overlooking this vast pan- 
orama ot mountain and forest. A sign erected hv 
the Pennsylvania State Highway Department 
calls attention to the "finest view between Phila- 
delphia and Pittsburgh." 

just beyond "(Jrand \'iew" is the highest ele- 
vation on the route, 2,908 feet, at the Bedford 
Co. -Somerset Co. Ime, running along the crest. 
This is more the top of a high, fairly broad plateau 
than a conventional "summit." Deep valleys, 
glens or ravines cut the landscape in curious 



north and west. 

A Somerset County Coal Region 

1 he descent of the western slope of the main 
Alleghany range is even more gradual than the 
grade on the eastern face, only 480 feet in some- 
what less than 6 miles, to the mountain village of 
Buckstown. Continuing straight through, the 
highway traverses a sparselv-settled country, with 
occasional tine views, making a gradual descent 
to Stony creek at Kantner !'. (). This stream is 
a rrdiMtary ot the Conemaugh, and the latter of 
the Kiskiminitis river, flowing into the Allegheny 
at 1' reeport, about 25 miles northeast of Pitts- 
burgh. 

1 he prmcipal camping site of the Forbes ex- 




/■iulo f,i I . L. ML, 
OLD STONE BUILDING, 4',, MILES WEST OF BEDFORD 



BcJhrd 



The road in front is the Lincoln Highway. At extreme right, passing other side of house, the "Old Glade 
Road" starts southwest 



fashion, some forming beds tor small mountain 
streams flowing in different directions. .At times 
the dense forests almost encroach upon the high- 
way. 

The alritutle places the crests ot this jilateau in 
the e()uivalent of the Canadian zone. Clouds 
from distant regions meet and mingle their rains 
upon these highlands; and across them two well- 
detined svstems of winds blow, generally from 
opposite directions. The fact that the .Alleghany 
mountain ranges are comparatively low, allows 
moisture from the Atlantic slope to pass easily 
over them into the Ohio and Mississippi valleys; 
this largeK' accounts for the fertility of our central 
West, whereas the higher mount;iins farther west 
keep back the moisture of the Pacific, and help 
make the semi-arid regions there. Here we pass 
from the domain of streams flowing east or south 
into a region drained principally toward the 



pedition between Bedford ;md Ligonier, was on 
Stt)ny creek in this vicinity; but nothing remains 
to mark its location. Stoystown, an old vilhige, 
;ibout a mile west of the stre;im. was laid out by 
;i Revolutionarv soldier named Stoy. Between 
this point ;md l,;iurel Hill, the next range, is an up- 
land plateau tr;iversed by several small streams. 
A few old buildings, which were probably tav- 
erns, wagon-stands or toll-houses in the busy days 
of the turnpike, are noticed along the roadside; 
but none of much distinctive character. Most 
of the settlements here have been made since coal 
has been extensively mined in rliis part of Somer- 
set county. I he princip:d transportation is 
furnished bv the Johnstown division of the B. &: 
(). R.R., connecting the Pittsburgh division at 
Rockwood, between Cumberland :ind Connells- 
ville, with the main line of the Pennsylvania at 
Johnstown. Now, as 100 years ago, the highway 



88 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Ph.-.lo hy I\ ZT .\/< Crrurj , Bedford 



SCHELLSBURG. BEDI ORD CO., PA. 



The view is nearly direct west, across the narrow Quaker Valley, in which the village (ejevation 1, 25*^ f^^^^ '^ situated. At the mountain 
summit, in extreme background, just left of the center of the picture, the highway is carried through a rift in the forest, which still encloses 
it on both sides. 



i.s the only means of east-and-west transportation 
through this section. 

From the hamlet of Jennertown, an important 
connecting route leads north to Johnstown, the 
best way from points along this section to that 
city. South from the same 4-corners starts the 
newly-unproved link from the Lincoln Highway 
here through Somerset and Meyersdale to the 
National Road about 3 miles east of Grants- 
ville, Md., providing a good and often very useful 
connection between these two trunk lines through 



contiguous sections of Pennsylvania and Mary- 
land. 

To AND Over "Laurel Hill" 

Shortly after leaving Jennertown, begins a 
fairly long ascent of the eastern slope of Laurel 
Hill, with several curves, which should be taken 
with care. The summit, 2,684 feet, is the high- 
est point on the remaining distance to Pittsburgh; 
trending slightly from northeast to southwest 
along this ridge is the dividing line between 




APPROACHING "GRAND VIEW, 



Pbolo by F. E. McCreaTy, Bedford 
SUMMIT ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS 



A characteristic "side-hill" road, which makes a long curve to distribute the grade over a greater distance, 
view is off to the left of the picture from the point where the highway is seen to reach the crest 



The celebrated 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Pboto by F. E. McCrcary. Bi-dlurJ 
ASCENDING THE MAIN ALLEGHANY RANGE 

View taken near the cast iVnnl of the mountain, InokinK northwest. This illustration shows the (teneral eharaeter of the 
Alh-iihany ranixes — liuj;e soil and rock niasses. of comparatively low altitude, and without individual summits, like the 
White Mountains, Atlirontlaeks and Catskills. From a distance they api)ear o\'al-shaped, or even rounded 



Somerset and Westmouland cdiintits. This sec- 
tion is very wild and sparsely settled; the atmos- 
phere is unusually clear and exhilarating. 

The name, "Laurel Hill" applied to this range 
since early colonial days, and frequently men- 
tioned as such in Washington's diary and puhlic 
and personal correspondence, is derived from the 
abundance ;md heauty of the Rhododendron or 
l.iunel which grows on the hillsides, in the val- 




Pholo hy /-. /-:. MiCnan. Biiljoid 

CURVE AT SUMMIT OF ALI.EGIIAN1' MOUNTAIN 

To the right of the picture — heyont! the protectinK widl, a iK>rtion f>f 
which may be seen — is "Granil View," overhioking the western sh>pe 
of the plain Alleghany range. While often sharp, these curvt-s are usu- 
ally wide; and the road slopes a irille to the inside as an additional 
factor of safely 



leys ami along the mountiiin streams of this re- 
gion, unsurpassed, if etiualed, elsewhere. A 
smaller variety, the Calico Bush, is a shrub about 

4 or 5 feet high, with thick, smooth evergreen 
leaves, lance-shaped and 2 to 3 inches long. In 
June its flowers appear in great clusters on the 
ends of the branches, very delicate and much 
used (or decorative purposes. 1 he stems are 
often m;ide into rustic chairs and benches. A 
grove of this shrub adds greatly to the attractive- 
ness of a well-kept lawn. 

Through here is found the large variety ot 
Laurel (Rhododendron maximum), growing from 
8 to 15 feet high; its evergreen leaves are from 

5 to 7 inches long, broadly lanced shape, of leath- 
ery texture and gloss\'. 1 he flowers appearing 
in August, are from 1 to 2 inches in di;imeter, of 
whitish or rose color, spotted inside, and grow in 
huge clusters. A thicket of great Laurel affords 
protection to g;ime anim:ils and birds fnnn the 
rigor ot winter, and heliis to conce:il them in 
summer. 

This h;irdy and be;iutifiil shrubbery is unsur- 
passed as a border phint along the stream of a 
country est;ite. In he;ivy masses, it clothes these 
extensive highlands in primeval beauty. Other 
flowers ;ind foliage add to the variety of the land- 
scape. Kspecially in the fall, after :i frost, almost 
;inv color of the rainbow c;in be seen as one looks 
over these noble, historic mountains. 

On the crest of this r;inge, somewhat more than 
M) air-line miles southwest of where it is crossed 
here hy the Lincoln Highway, Washington, in 
comuKind of a small advance of the "\irginia 
Regiment," with which he undertook to reach 
l-'ort DuOuesne. encountered the French outpost 
under jumoinille, ;intl hred the first shots in the 
Old French War. He soon ;ifterw;irds retreated 
to Fort Necessity, and was obliged to surrender 
to superior numbers of French and Indians, on 
July 4, 1754. The section traversed hy Wash- 
ington's expedition, and by the greater Braddock 
camp;iign of 1755, is crossed by the Nation:il 



vo 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Road a few miles east (if Uniontown. A nuinher 
of flat, smooth rocks, from 60 to 90 feet long, and 
varying widths, are noticed on this hill, as no- 
where else along the entire route. David Eby, 
the old wagoner, states that in the olden days 
horses often slipped, fell and were injured in the 
effort to draw heavy loads over these rocks. The 
modern roadbuilder has made them harmless to 
a carefully driven motor car. 

Through Laughlintown into Ligonier 

We descend the western slope of Laurel Hill, 
part of the way along a deep, heavily-wooded 
ravine, with occasional glimpses of the small 
stream at the bottom of it. 1 his is the last steep 
grade (westbound) in the mountains, and the last 
of all except for the descent from East McKees- 
port to Turtle creek, when almost into Pittsburgh. 
Soon the village of Laughlintown appears in the 
extensive view ahead. 

About 1 g-mile north of the main route, and 
reached by turning right on the side-road about a 
mile east of Laughlintown, is the old Washington 
Furnace, which anyone interested in such things 
will find a short side-trip to this very quaint struc- 
ture (compared with modern plants) worth while. 
Originally about 60-feet high, it has fallen away 
through age and neglect until only about 30 feet 
of the stack remain; its limestone foundation and 
a portion of the brick bosh are, however, intact. 
Entirely deserted, the typical furnace village 
which once clustered around the grass-grown 
knoll, has passed into oblivion. 

It was built in 1809 by a settler, Johnson Mc- 
Clurg, who m 1818 sold it to another settler, 
Wurtz Rodgers. About 1822, it passed by sher- 
iff's sale to a corporation headed by Bell Bros., 
then considered the leading manufacturers of iron 




Photo by George hi. Crafl, Unionlown 

MOUNTAIN LAUREL 

A tUisIci 111 hinssiiins, tinted with Rolcfen flecks or yellow spf)ts on the 
upper petals: all the more striking as seen against the more sombre 
shades ol the leaves 

ore products, owning plants of this type at Con- 
nellsville. In 1857 it was sold to L. C. Hall, who 
closed down in 1860; owing partly to meagre 
transportation facilities, it has not since been 
operated. 

The charge used in this old-style furnace was a 
mixture of charcoal, limestone, bog ore and kid- 
ney ore; charcoal was also used for heating the 
charge, coke being little known at that time. Its 
product, in the form of ingots, was hauled in wag- 
ons to Pittsburgh. Subsequently, domestic ap- 
pliances, such as stoves, were made there and sold 
to residents of the locality. The section around 
this furnace and Loyalhanna creek, one of the 
most beautiful along the highway, is used in sum- 




Photo hy Ross Campbell 

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OVER LAUGHLINTOWN, WESTMORELAND CO., PENNA. 

Looking west from the western slope of Laurel Hill. The highlands in the foreground are between Laurel Hill (in the background, out of the 
photograph), and Chestnut Ridge, in the distance. Faint outlines of Ligonier may be seen in the extreme left, just this side of Chestnut Ridge 



91 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



mer by hundreds of peopli- for camping and picnii.- 
grounds. 

About 4-niiles west of the summit of Laurel 
Hill and 3-miles east of Ligonier, we come into 
i.auKhlmtown. Over the ground now occupied 
by this picturesque little mountain village. Col. 
Ward passed, .September 6, 1758, leading the first 
detachment of soldiers in the Forbes expedition 
toward Fort DuQuesne. It is said that Robert 
Laughlin was one of them, and settled here after 
that war. 

I he place was laid out by him June 7, 1797, 
and originally called East Liberty; upon the es- 
rabli.shment of the P. O., the present name was 
adopted. At one time it was 1 of only 4 post offi- 
ces in Westmoreland CO., the other 3 being 
Greensburg, Mount Pleasant and West Newton, 
the latter two on the southern route from Somer- 
set to Pittsburgh. 

About a mile south of Laughlintow n, the first 
charcoal furnace in the county was built more 
than 100 years ago, and charcoal was extensively 
produced until the industry became unprofitable. 
Considerable amounts of ore, making the best of 
iron, may still be found in this region; but not in 
sufficient (luantities to compete with northwest- 
ern ores now brought down the (ire;ir Lakes. 

On the south side of file highwa\', at the center 
ot the \ ilhige, is tht- home of Mr. Charles L. Armor, 
erected about 179'), foi hotel purposes; it was 
called in stage-coach ;nid tavern days the "Mari- 
ner's Compass," or locally, the "Compass Inn." 
Robert Armor, gr;uidfather of the present owner, 
came to Laughlintown in 1S14. Inside the old 
tavern (kept as a hotel until 1SC)2), is a collection 
of interesting relics, maini\' domestic antiques, 
gathered in the vicinity or in the nearbv Ligonier 
valley. lourists desiring to d>) so may stop ;ind 
inspect them. 

On June 7, 1897, the village celebrated its cen- 
tennial, with interesting ceremonies, on which 
occasion there were many visitors from outside to 
one resident. The parade included old-time 
wagons, pack-horse trains reproduced, valley 
rangers, elderly citizens in carriages, etc. Some 
taking part in this page;mt could recall most of 
the history of the place. 

Ahead and to the left, the tourist now sees out- 
lines of the beautiful Ligonier valley, through the 
greater part of which Hows Loyalhanna creek, 
whose general course is followed into the town. 
Directly in front, where the str;iightaway of the 
route is broken by the scjuare, is a large bronze 
marker on a granite block, erected by the Penn- 
sylvania Society, Sons of the Revolution, unveiled 
July 4, 1915. The lettering on this tablet, a con- 
cise summary of the historical points of the local- 
ity, reads as follows: 

Fort Lkjonikr 

The first Fnglish fort west of the Allegh- 
any Mountains was built five hundred feet 
southeast of this spot in 1758, by order of 
(jen. John Forbes, and named in honor of 
Lord John Ligonier. 

Here (iener;il Forbes, with the aid of Col- 



onels (leorge Washington, Henry RoiKjuet 
and John Armstrong, assembled an armv of 
7,S5() men, constructed the Forbes Road, 
marched against Fort DuQuesne. and com- 
pelled the evacuation of the fort, November 
25. 1758, thereby overthrowing French and 
establishing English supremacy in this re- 
gion. 

Here Col. Bouquet re-organized the expe- 
dition for the relief of Fort Pitt; and while on 
the march, at a point twenty-seven miles 
west of this, fought the battle of Bushy Run, 
August 5 and 6, 1763, defeating the Indians 
under Chief Guyasthua in "one of the best- 
contested actions ever fought between white 
men and Indians." 

I he fort was about one street south of our 
route from the 4-corners next east of the square, 
just before westbound travel comes to the bus- 
iness center and historical tablet; and can be 
found by a very short detour. Here was not only 
a very important military rendezvous of the 
Forbes expedition, but also the most westerly 
frontier defense along this route to the Ohio. The 
locality is now without special interest, and unat- 
tractive except for picturesque views along Loy- 
alhanna creek, whose high bluffs gave the fort a 
very advantageous location. 

No marker has been erected on the site; but the 
one with the inscription ((uoted, at the nearest 
point to it on the through highway, is seen by 
thousands who would not make the side-trip to 
the stream. Ihe diagram will give a good idea 
of the military post there ( 1758-'6.3). It was never 
again of importance, though the town which grew 
up around it has become the chief center tor the 
locality. 

Fwo military expeditions passed through here 
in colonial days, that of Forbes, which took Fort 
DuOuesne, and Bouquet's against the Indians, 
nearly 5 years after the F"rench had abandoned 
the Ohio country. Boucpiet was an officer under 
Forbes, but the expedition with which his name 
is more personally connected took place in 176.?, 
during Pontiac's Rebellion. 

Ihe reference in the second paragraph on the 
tablet to the Forbes Road having been construc- 
ted from Ligonier westward is correct in the sense 
that from this fort the cutting was through the 
primeval wilderness, whereas east of here, primi- 
tive roads ;iheady existed from the Sus(]uehann;i 
;ind Potomac. Forbes' route was from Carlisle, 
in the Cumberland valley, to Pittsburgh; as far 
as Ligonier it used what had already been laid 
out; but from here on it was constructed for that 
expedition. 

Ilc)\n: OF Gen. Arthir St. Ci..mr 

.Among distinguished officers in the French and 
Indian and Revolutionary wars, only one was 
ever a resident of this section; here his name is 
freipiently met, even today. Arthur St. Clair, 
ilescendant of a prominent old family of Scots, 
came to America in 1758, serving first under 



92 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Lotftilhanna 



Re-drawn from "Frontier Forts of Pennsylvania" 

DIAGRAM SHOWING FORM AND LOCATION OF FORT I.IG- 

ONIER, BETWEEN LCl ALHANNA CREEK AND PRESENT 

MAIN ROUTE (INDICATED BY PARALLEL DOTTED 

LINES AT TOP) 



Wolfe in Canada, afterwards becoming agent for 
the western lands of the Penn family. Thus he 
became interested in the Ligonier valley, and' 
held some local offices. 

Diirmg the Revolution, St. Clair served the 
cause of the colonies with ability and distinction. 
In 1788 he was appointed first governor of the 
Northwest Territory, whose capital was then at 
ChiUicothe, now Ohio. For several years he was 
engaged largely in subduing the Indians on the 
frontiers, usually with success, though defeated 
at the Miami villages (battle of the Wabash), in 
1791. 

Resigning thegovernorship early in 1802, because 
ot differences with President Jefferson, St. Clair 
returned to western Pennsylvania and made his 
home at the "Hermitage," north of Ligonier. 
During the last years, he lived in poverty, and 
finally received a small pension from the State. 
Giving up the "Hermitage," he moved to the top 
of Chestnut Ridge, where his death occurred Au- 
gust .il, 1818, in his SSth year. 

Keeping right, around the north side of the 
square, Ligonier, the tourist resumes the straight- 
away of the through route; and passes, on the left, 
the attractive station of the Ligonier Valley R.R., 
which connects with the Pennsylvania system 
main line at Latrobe. For the next few miles, 
the highway, Loyalhanna creek and this local 



railroad are close together in a very picturesque 
gorge. 

To AND Through Chestnut Ridge 

This range, which rises in height and increases 
in size farther south (making several steep grades 
on the National Road east of Uniontown, and be- 
coming Cheat Mountain in West Virginia), is 
here so low that most of the highway through the 
gorge is nearly level. Woodlands border it on 
both sides; and great rocks, left by glacial action, 
may be seen. Several miles north, this range is 
cut through by the Pennsylvania R.R. at the fa- 
mous "Pack Saddle," the name an inheritance 
from the days of the pack-horse. 

On the left-hand side, nearly opposite the iron 
bridge leading across Loyalhanna creek into 
Kingston, is a large old stone building once a tav- 
ern, erected before the place was settled. In 
stage-coach and freight-wagon days, it was known 
as Johnston's. Across the stream is a paper mill. 
Emerging from the western end of the gorge, our 
route leaves the picturesque creek followed from 
east of Ligonier, and turns southwest, up a wind- 
ing" grade into^Youngstown. 

Westbound travel has now crossed the moun- 
tains into a rolling highland region, whose general 
slope is west. Irregular, rounded hills take the 
place of well-defined ridges. Changes in the char- 
acter of the country are evident on every hand, 
and the vegetation of lower altitudes reappears. 
From now on there are frequent glimpses of coke 
plants and coal-mining operations. Latrobe, the 
largest nearby place, is about 3-miles north of 
the highway a short distance west of Youngstown. 

Over to the left, somewhat more than 3-miles 
beyond that village, is St. Xavier Academy, for 
girls and young ladies, located in about 250 acres 
of fields, gardens and recreation grounds. Inside 




photo by Bradford, Phila., from ])uinting 

GEN. ARTHUR ST. CLAIR 

Citizen, warrior and administrator: personally identified ff^r many years 
with the Ligonier Valley section of this route 



93 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 




Pbotofrapb by Bradjord, from jjaintine at flisloricat Society of 
Pcnnsi'/rania, Pbiia. 

BRIG-GEN. HENRY BOUQUET 

One of the principal officers under Gen. Forhes in the campaign of 17>8 
against Fort DuQui'sne; and in chief command of the expedition which 
culminated at the Battle of Bush.v Run, northeast of this route at lr^vin, 
AuKUSt, l7bJ 

Stone gates on the left, close hy the highway, is the 
park or grove, almost tilled with old trees. Only 
the tops of the buildings can be seen. This acad- 
emy, established about 70 years, is said to be the 
oldest of its kind in the State. On the opposite 
(north) side, somewhat farther away. St. \'in- 
cent's College may also be seen. 

We are now drawing closer to the main line of 
the Pennsylvania R.R.. and occasionally bear the 
shrill whistle of speeding locomotives. .Along this 
section are a few old buildings, some former tav- 
erns or wagon-stands, mostly turned into dwell- 
ings; now and then something suggests the famil- 
iar lines and structure of a former toll-house. The 
sight of a log cabin, reminder of pioneer days, is 
still not uncommon. 

On the left, before the highway loses its iden- 
tity in v.. Pittsburgh St.. CJreensburg. we pass St. 
Clair Cemetery, named after (Jen. .Arthur St. 
Clair. However, the remains of the general and 
his wife are in the small old cemetery located 
about a block north of the main route a very short 
distance east of the business center (see map top 
page 49). 

I hat one may be quickly reached by keeping to 
the right (westbound), after passing under the S. 
\\ . branch. Penna. R.R. just south of the main 
line. For several years St. Clair's final resting 
place was unmarked; but in 1S32. the .Masonic 
fraternity erected a monument, with the follow- 
ing inscription: 

SovTH Side 
The earthly remains of Maj<>r-(jtneral Arthur .St. 



Clair are deposited beneath this humble monument 
which is erected to supply the place of a nobler one. 
due from his country. 

North Side 

This stone is erected over the remains of their de- 
parted brother, by members of the .Masonic Societv 
resident in this vicinity. 

Beneath this monument also lies Phoebe Bayard, 
wife of General St. Clair. She died September IS, 
ISIS. 

In the course of time, the old monument disin- 
tegrated; and was replaced by a new one. dedi- 
cated .August 1.^. 1913. with appropriate ceremo- 
nies. I he sides ot the new one. like the old mon- 
ument, correspond exactly with the 4 points of 
the compass. A new inscription on the east panel 
reads as follows: 

This monument erected in 191.^ by members of 
the Masonic Fraternity resident in this vicinity, re- 
places, and is a duplicate of a sandstone monument 
which was erected in lS.i2. the inscription on this 
panel alone excepted. 

Greensburg .and X'icimty 

The old Forbes Road crossed this section at 
varying distances above the Lincoln Highwav. 
through Hannastown. and past what has been 
known since 1763 as the Bushy Run battlefield. 
A contemporaPi- writer once referred to Hannas- 
town (about 3-miles directly north of Greens- 
burg), as the "first collection of huts on the Penn- 
sylvania Road (highway only, at that time) be- 
tween Bedford and Pittsburgh, dignified by the 
name of a town." When Westmoreland Co. was 
set ofF from Bedford Co. in 1773. that place was 
made the county seat. St. Clair, first clerk of 
the court, sot)n resigned to re-enter military ser- 
vice. 

Here in almost a primeval wilderness, men 
from the Redstone, Georges Creek, ^oughiogheny, 
Monongahela and other trans-.AIIeghany regions 
met to arrange their larger affairs, and dispense 
justice according to the legal lorins of the period 
on the frontier. .At Hannastown, in the midst of 
what is still sometimes referred to as "Old \\ est- 
moreland," the first courts west of the Alleghanies 
were held. In the wooden Court there, the fa- 
mous "Resolves" of 1776 were passed, and every 
movement for independence was very popular 
throughout this sparsely-settled but intensely 
patriotic district. 

At the opening of the Revolution, Hannastown 
was the most important place west of the moun- 
tains except Pittsburgh and I.igonier. It was 
pillaged and burned by the Indians in July, 1782. 
and was never rebuilt, (jteensburg, settled 
shortly afterward, and incorporated in 1799, be- 
came the county seat, and has ever since been the 
principal town in the district, growing from a 
village of about 8C)0 in 184() to the present bor- 
ough of more than 15,000. Its first prosperity, 
due to the old Pike, was increased by the rail- 
road; and multiplied later by the extensive de- 
velopment of coal, coke and oil in the surrounding 
territory. 



94 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 

Chapter VIII — Greensburg to Piltsbiirgh — 31} 2 Miles 

Through Irwin, East McKeesport, Turtle Creek, East Pittsburgh and 

Wilkinsburg; ivith alternate through Braddock 



Passing the Court House on the right, immedi- 
ately west of the intersection of N. Main and S. 
Main streets, the route continues out W. Pitts- 
burgh St., entering the last stretch of open coun- 
try before the busy suburbs east of Pittsburgh. 
At Grapeville, about 4J 9 miles beyond Greens- 
burg, we pass the connecting road to Jeannette, a 
manufacturing town on the main line of the Penn- 
sylvania R.R., a short two miles north. 

Bushy Run battlefield, the turning point of 
Pontiac's War in 1763, is about 2} 2 miles farther 
above the railroad at Jeannette; and may be 
reached that way. Tourists particularly inter- 
ested in the locality should inquire at either Jean- 
nette or Irwin, depending upon the direction of 
the trip. The map top page 49 shows its gen- 
eral location. 

For some time, the Bushy Run Memorial Asso- 
ciation has been planning a suitable memorial to 
Col. Henry Bouquet on these grounds. A bill 
appropriating )'>75, 000 for the purpose passed 
both houses of the Pennsylvania legislature in 
1919, and was signed by the governor. The me- 
morial thus provided for will make the locality 
better known generally, while the completion of 
the new road up from Irwin, mentioned later, will 
greatly increase tourist travel to it. 

The highway now passes through somewhat 
rough and broken country, with an increasing 
number of derricks characteristic of a gas-and-oil 
section. Over to the right, about i^-mile north 
of our route, a short distance after passing through 
Adamsburg (some 3-miles east of Irwin), is the 
Brush Creek Church, a brick structure erected in 
1814 near the site of an old log church, one of the 
first houses of worship west of the Alleghanies. 
Its records, in beautiful German script, well pre- 
served, show dates of confirmation and acces- 
sions to the congregation over a long early period. 

Beyond Adamsburg is Straw Pump, once the 
location of a tavern and blacksmith shop. The 
settlement was named from the fact that the 
"pump" along the roadside, made out of a very 
large log, was covered with straw during the win- 
ter to prevent freezing. 

In the fields on the left, just before the trolley 
comes in from the right, is the site of Fort Wal- 
thour, a stockade or block-house erected as a place 
of refuge and defense during the Indian wars. 
This region, being easil\' accessible from the west, 
suffered severely during the seasons of 1781-'82, 
especially just before the destruction of Hannas- 
town. The site has been identified with certain- 
ty, but nothing can now be seen of it. 



On the right-hand side, about a mile east of the 
center of Irwin, is a large, substantial stone house, 
originally built in 1794, at least in part, by Col. 
John Irwin. Though probably the oldest dwell- 
ing standing along this route west of the moun- 
tains, it is well preserved, and occupied now by 
the Misses Scull, great grand-daughters of John 
Scull, a son-in-law of Col. John Irwin, and one of 
the early editors and proprietors of the Pittsburgh 
Gazette, the first newspaper beyond the Alle- 
ghanies. 

Briefs About Irwin and Vicinity 

Irwin borough, entered by a long, easy down- 
grade, is of more recent date than the highway. 
In the summer of 1852, the main line of the Penn- 
sylvania R.R., a short distance over to the right, 
was constructed through here; in the fall of that 
year, lots were laid out by John Irwin, nephew of 
Col. John Irwin, the place taking its name from 
that family. 

Most ot this region is underlaid by a great bitu- 
minous coal formation known as the Pittsburgh 
seam. Beds from 3 to 9 feet thick could once 
have been opened almost anywhere; and "out- 
crops" are still noticed. Soon after the railroad 
was built through, the first mining here was from 
a "cart pit," in which Thomas A. Scott, after- 
wards president of the Pennsylvania, was a 
partner. 

P rom that small beginning, the predominant 




I'i'utu in A. /'. Ltinitinjit. Irwm 

IRWIN HOMESTEAD, IRWIN, PA. 

Former tavern property .tt intersection of Lincoln Highway and Main 
St. 



95 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 





Fbulo 6> J. K. Lacock 

BUSHY RUN BAril.lLI lia.D, WHERE I'ONTIACS REBELLION (1703) WAS CHECKED IN PENNSYLVANIA 

Northeast of the Lincoln HiRhway at Irwin. Pa.; for general location see map top page 4'>. This historic field is about to receive 
the care and attention its importance deserves. RollinK hills, often traversecf by ravines, and partially forest-covered landscapes, 
arc characteristic of the conniry along this .section of the route. 



industry of the section has been developed. Prac- 
tically all coal in the immediate vicinity of Irwin 
has been mined, and the tieid of operations widen- 
ened, particularly by the Westmoreland Coal Co. 
(Philadelphia), by opening new operations east 
and west along the railroad, and farther back in 
the countrv. Ihere are no other large industries; 
Irwin is becoming nKue a residence comnuinity. 
Being within commuting distance, it is the home 
of many employes of the W'estinghouse plants at 
Wilmerding and East Pittsburgh, and other in- 
dustries between here and the "Smoky City." 

Upon completion of the road from Irwin north- 
this will be the principal point trom which to 
leave the through route for Bushy Run battle- 
field. It will make a very interesting and the 
most natural connection to that locality, return- 
ing to the Lincoln Highway here. 

At the corner of Main St., where the trollev 
branches north, is an old brick house, originally ;i 
tavern; afterwards the home of John Irwm, toun- 
der of the borough. It is now occupied by .Mrs. 
Lydia Altman, a great-granddaughter; and may 
be identified, in addition to its general appearance, 
by vines covering most of the ends, and a large 
part of the front. 

This is a much later building th;in the home ot 
Col. John Irwin, passed about a mile t;irrher east, 
already mentioned. Ibe veranda and tront steps 
are modern. Double chimneys at each end, char- 
acteristic of old-time taverns, are outward evi- 
dence of the huge fireplaces for heating the large 
rooms on the ground floor. 

Leaving Irwin, the highway crosses a Pennsyl- 
vania R.R. branch extentling from the main line 
here to CumlH-rhiiul-Pittsbiirgh division, B. &: ()., 
at the Youghiogheny river. Cross with care; 



during parts of the day it is considerabl\' used by 
coal trains. 

First Stretch Wksi oi- Irwi.n 

A short mile beyond this crossing, we pass 
through Jacksonville, laid out by Humi^hrey Full- 
erton, whose ancestors acipured the land in the 
early days; and probably named after Andrew 
Jackson. On the right here is an old stone build- 
ing, formerly as now, a tavern, but not particu- 
larly interesting or historic. .^Iso on the north 
side of the highway, a short distance beyond Jack- 
sonville, is tbe brick residence of Mr. J. L. Ridin- 
ger. In IS 12. this was owned and the business 
conducted b\ William Hyndman, to whom a li- 
cense was granted by (lov. Snyder, according to 
the custom of that time, to keep public house and 
sell liquors. 

it was a well patronizetl ta\ ern during the stage- 
coach and freight-wagon era, which continued 
about 40 Years. The stone barn, a good example 
of earlv construction, is still in an excellent state 
of preservation. Ibis is the last property of its 
kind seen by the westbound traveler on this route, 
all of those west of here being too greatly altered 
to be recognized, or entirely removed. 

.'\t Cirdeville, the next place, the houses were 
originallv in the form of ;i partial circle; hence the 
name. Here \\ illi;ini Larimer was born, October 
24. 1809. prob;ibly in the reconstructed dwelling 
(old log house, weather-boarded, giving a modern 
appearance), now owned and occupied by the Mc- 
F;irlane heirs, at the forks of the road, Cirdeville. 

.After engaging in r;iilroad construction in west- 
ern PennsN'lvania. Larimer removed to the far 
west of th;it time, entering business ;ind politics. 
He erected the first house in Denver, and atter- 



96 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



ward became U. S. Commissioner and Judge of 
Probate. During the war of 1861-'65 he served 
the Union cause, civil and mihtary, west of the 
Missouri. Larimer St., Denver, Larimer Co., 
Colorado, and a station on the main line of the 
Pennsylvania R.R., north of Circleville, com- 
memorate his name. He died in 1875 near 
Leavenworth, Kansas. 

Two Crossings of the Braddock Road 

The present location of the Lincoln Highway 
was crossed twice at Circleville by the Braddock 
expedition of 1755 against Fort DuQuesne. It is 
generally understood that the road branching 
south from this point, passing through Madison 
to West Newton on the Youghiogheny, follows 
closely the route taken by Braddock's army after 
making this short loop. 

Braddock's scouts undoubtedly made a mis- 
take in going so far north, instead of following 
some more direct line from Mount Pleasant nearer 
the Monongahela. In fact, the steepness of the 
hills between this locality and the "Forks of the 
Ohio" led him to turn southwest by way of Long 
run and Crooked run, without again touching the 
line of this route. All traces of both the Brad- 
dock and Forbes roads through this section have 
disappeared. 

Both had the same destination, the French 
fort at the junction of the Allegheny and Monon- 
gahela. The Braddock Road crossed the latter 
at the present McKeesport; and after following 
along the south side for about 4-miles, recrossed 
near the mouth of Turtle creek, probably to avoid 
the high ridge just ahead on our shorter, later 
route. Forbes' army did not cross the Monon- 
gahela, but descended from the high ridge east of 
Turtle creek by a route probably not far from the 
present through highway. By a study of the 
topography, the general line of both routes may 
be determined with reasonable accuracy. 

A short distance beyond Circleville, we run out 
of Westmoreland Co. into Allegheny Co., the 
first town in which is East McKeesport, a place of 
about 2,500 population. The city of McKeesport, 
nearly 20 times as large, is about 4-miles south- 
west of the through highway at this point, an old 
and strategic situation on the north side of the 
Youghiogheny river at its junction with the 
greater Monongahela, shown on map page 104. 

First Chance to View the Monongahela 

Six-tenths of a mile after crossing the trolley in 
East McKeesport begins one of the longest and 
steepest single descents bv this route across the 
State, a drop of nearly 350 feet in 1 7-10 miles. 
If the day is clear, one will be well repaid for stop- 
ping at the top of this grade and walking a short 
distance, through the fields on the left, for a view 
of the Monongahela river and valley, only a frac- 
tion of a mile south from this last high elevation 
on the trip. 

Though railways have been constructed along 
both sides of it, the aggregate traffic on this river 
is probably greater now than ever before. But 



its character has greatly changed. Quite fre- 
quently in the past, a freight-carrying boat, and 
occasionally a passenger packet, could be seen 
making its slow way along the stream. That was 
the principal means of reaching Pittsburgh from 
points east of Brownsville on the National Pike 
before the completion of the next section of that 
road from Brownsville to the Ohio river at Wheel- 

Passengers and most light freight have been 
shifted to the railways. Now the stranger is 
likely to see one or more long lines of barges, 
towed by stern-wheeled steamer, conveying thou- 
sands of tons of bituminous coal, mostly from in- 
terior West Virginia, to Pittsburgh or farther west. 
When loaded, these are so low in the water that 
only their black tops and outer edges are visible, 
and they often stretch out to surprising length. 
While water transportation of coal is termed 




Photo by A. P. Cameron, Irwin 
THE RIDINGER HOMESTEAD 
About 1-miIc west of Irwin; once a popular stage-coach tavern 

"towing," the coal barges are really pushed by the 
steamboat, not drawn, a practice characteristic 
of western rivers. 

While there are more extensive views in the 
mountains, not one has the variety observed from 
this point. Looking down into the valley of Tur- 
tle creek, to which we soon descend, one may see 
Wilmerding, and perhaps identify the Westing- 
house Air Brake factory there. More nearly 
north is Turtle Creek borough, joined on its left 
by East Pittsburgh, whose most conspicuous fea- 
ture is the immense plant of the Westinghouse 
Electric & Mfg. Co. 

A trifle more to the left is the junction of Turtle 
creek with the Monongahela; and on the north 
side of the latter, only a little farther away, is 
Braddock, specially mentioned in later paragraphs. 
In the lengthening distance, generally west, are 
Rankin, Homestead (across the Monongahela), 
Wilkinsburg and other outlying districts of Pitts- 
burgh, while the location of that city may be clear- 



97 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



ly approximated by the heavier smoke over it still 
farther beyond them. Nearly south from this 
lookout, one may identify DuQuesne (.across the 
Monongaliela), and possdil\' make out McKees- 
port. 

Even a quick survey of this remarkable com- 
posite scene is not likely to be forgotten. 1 he 
most advantageous locations through this region 
have been occupied, in times past, by various in- 
dustries; and multiplied populations have made 
their homes and conducted their business affairs 
amidst difficulties, topographical and otherwise. 
Under favorable conditions for observation, the 
visitor is better able to appreciate Andrew Carne- 
gie's frequent reference to the Pittsburgh district 
as the "Workshop of the World;" and is impressed 
with the constructive genius which accomplishes 
great things in this rough, smoky and noisy en- 
vironment. 

Down Into and Through Turtle Creek 

The descent from west of East McKeesport to 
Turtle creek borough should be made with care, 
on account of the steep grades; heavier traffic will 
also be met from here all the way into Pittsburgh. 
In the descent, the road leads somewhat ne;irer 
Wilmerding; and outlines of the Air Urake phmt, 
by far the greatest in the world, become clearer. 
The main street of Wilmerding, appropriately 
named Air Brake Ave., leads into our route on the 
other side of the railroad. 

At the foot of the long grade, ;i sharp right turn 
is made to cross a bridge over the m;iin line, Penn- 
sylvania R.R. (for the first time since Leaman 
Place, some miles east of Lancaster), and I urtle 
creek — the stream), descending a short grade on 
the farther side. Immediately turning left, one 
follows the trolley through the center of I'urtle 
Creek borough, a comparatively new place, in one 
of the most historic localities between the moun- 
tains and Pittsburgh. The name of the creek, 
dating back more than 170 years, undoubtedly 
came from abund;nir fish and reptile life there in 
early times. 

Nothing more will be seen of the stream, where- 
by we miss a point of great former interest, its 
junction with the Monongahela about a mile 
south. One of the early trading posts and store- 
houses of the Ohio Companv was loc;ited there; 
also the residence i)f John Fr;izier, Indian trader, 
with whom \\ ;ishington and (list stopped on their 
way to warn the !• rench from the .Allegheny re- 
gion in November, 1753. In fact, the phice con- 
tinued to be known as "Frazier's" until the loca- 
tion here of great industries began to change its 
character, and gradually obliterated both old 
landmarks and traces of former roads. 

Washington mentions it in his diaries of 
1769-70-71; an entry for November 23, 1770, re- 
fers to "dining at the widow Mier's, on Turtle 
creek." The home of this widow, subsequently 
known as Mvers, was a 2-story stone house, with 
loopholes around the eaves for lookout in times of 
danger. It stood on the hillside at or near the 
corner of Sycamore St. and Monroeville Ave. 



I ourists over this routi- sonu- years ago may recall how 
the old Pike climhs the hill to the north of Turtle creek, 
passing above East I'lttsburnh. Since completion of 
Ardmore Boulevard, it has been to a large extent aban- 
doned, traffic following the easy grade of Ardmore Boule- 
vard from East Pittsburgh to Wilkinsburg. 

Vicinity of Br.^ddock's Field 

Six-tenths of a mile beyond the turn over the 
railroad at Turtle Creek station, we come along 
the west front of the Westinghouse Electric &: 
IMfg. Co., at East Pittsburgh, the greatest works 
of their kind under one roof. Here (unless using 
the alternate route through Hraddock, mapped 
and outlined on page 104), a right turn is made 
into Electric Ave., a narrow, often congested 
thoroughfare, developed within recent years as a 
connecting link into Ardmore Boulevard, subse- 
(luently mentioned. 

Running west along Electric Ave., we soon pass 
as near as the main through highway goes to the 
locality where Braddock's army was defeated 
July 9, 1755. That was on the north side of the 
Monongahela. some distance west of Turtle creek 
(stream), in the present Braddock. For many 
years afterward it was about as wild and uninhab- 
ited as in Braddock's day; and in .August, 1795, 
was the gathering place for about 7.CXJ0 insurgents 
in the "\^ hiskey Insurrection." subsequentl\- put 
down by the vigorous action ;ind tact ot Presi- 
dent \\ ashington. 

The greater part of the ground is now covered 
by the Edgar Thomson plant, Carnegie Steel Co. 
While changes have almost eliminated the deep 
ravine in w hich the principal attack by the I' rench 
and Indians upon the British and colonial forces 
took place, the general topography of the locality 
makes that engagement, and the military move- 
ments before and after, much clearer than can be 
conveyed by written descriptions alone. 

At the Braddock plant, Carnegie Steel Co., 
now one of the principal units of the U. S. Steel 
Corporation. Charles M. Schwab, working at 18 
years of age for $b.i)0 a week, attracted the at- 
tention of Capt. W. R. Jones, one of the late .An- 
drew Carnegie superintendents, and soon th;it of 
the great ironmaster himself. 

Beyond Braddock, on the opposite side of the 
Monongahela (thus somewhat farther from our 
route, but shown on the map page 104), are the 
Homestead works, Carnegie Steel Co. (U. S. Steel 
Corporation), scene of the great strike which 
lasted from July into November, 1892. In that 
forerunner of the great conflicts since between 
capital and labor, the late Henry Clay Frick, then 
partner of Andrew Carnegie :ind manager of that 
plant, was shot by the anarchist, Alexander Berk- 
man, who bv a singular coincidence, was deported 
by the government in 1919, at almost the exact 
hour of Mr. Frick's de;ith. 

At one time, sever;il hundred Pinkerton nun 
were brought from Pittsburgh up the river on 
barges to protect the steel works and the non- 
union men; but were attacked by the old em- 
ployees, and after several casualties were forced 
to capitulate. Intense excitement was caused 
throughout the country by this long-drawn-out 



98 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvaina 



and bitter conflict. Mr. Frick recovered, after- 
wards relinquishing his partnership with Mr. 
Carnegie, becoming head of the H. C. Frick Coke 
Co., the predominant factor in that industry, and 
a power in finance. 

East Pittsburgh to and Through Wilkinsburg 

Leaving East Pittsburgh, the tourist runs out 
of the industrial zone (which continues along the 
river practically all way into the city), and enters 
an extensive resident district. 3}2mdesfrom the 
Westinghouse plant, the trolley turns left; but 
Ardmore Boulevard leads straight ahead. On 
the right, in a reverse fork just beyond where the 
trolley leaves, is a small statue of Lincoln, the only 
memorial of the President after whom the high- 
way has been named, seen since Gettysburg. 

A half mile farther on, we cross Wood St., at 
the center of Wilkinsburg, a large residence su- 
burb of Pittsburgh. Just west of Wood St., the 
main thoroughfare, now Penn Ave., passes under 
4 viaducts carrying the main line of the Pennsyl- 
vania R.R. overhead. Before the construction 
of these viaducts, a few years ago, this was the 
most dangerous set of grade crossings on this 
route, if not in the State. 

Not far beyond, the tourist runs out of Wil- 
kinsburg borough into the "East End," a term 
applied to the entire residential section east of 
Shadyside (from the city line to within about 3 or 
332 miles of the Court House in downtown Pitts- 
burgh). Fine homes become more frequent on 
both sides of the avenue; and many more are with- 
in a few blocks of the route. 

On the right-hand (north) side, between Dallas 
and Linden avenues, is a tablet, erected in 1914 
by the Pennsylvania Society, Colonial Dames of 
America, to mark the Forbes Road — the only one 
on the entire route. This is attached to an old 
oak stump just within the railing enclosing the 
lawn of a private residence; when the accompany- 
ing view was taken, a flag of 13 stars waved over 
It from a small staff mounted on top. 

Marching toward Fort DuQuesne, Forbes' 
army crossed the present Penn Ave. where this 
marker has been placed. There is a tradition 
that Washington, an officer in that expedition, 
rested for awhile under the tree subsequently 
known as "Washington's Oak." No sign of 
that old road now remains; though Forbes St., 
Pittsburgh, about midway between our route and 
the Monongahela, was named after that general, 
no part of it was on his line of march in 1758. The 
name was probably given arbitrarily, like other 
streets called after men active in the early settle- 
ment of western Pennsylvania; and was not cut 
all the way through, probably until after the 40's. 

"Automobile Row" and Motor Organization 
Headquarters 
We now cross 5th Ave., the first downtown 
street extending several miles east; this intersec- 
tion (Penn and Sth avenues), is locally called 
"Point Breeze." Farther along. East Liberty 
station, Pennsylvania R.R. is passed on the right; 
this station serves a large residential district, and 



all through trains stop there. Just west of it, we 
cross a bridge over the railroad, and run along 
Penn Ave. 3-10 mile to the intersection of Whit- 
field St. There (leaving Penn Ave., which con- 
tinues downtown by an inferior route) a left turn 
is made, past the Y. M. C. A. on right, to end of 
Whitfield St., turning right into Baum St. 

The Automobile Club of Pittsburgh, whose ofii- 
ces include the headquarters of the Pennsylvania 
Motor Federation, are in the building on the 
northeast corner of Baum and Beatty streets, im- 
mediately opposite Motor Square Garden. Mem- 
bers of clubs in other localities are welcome to 
call there for touring or other information. The 
business district about here, with Penn Ave. from 
Highland to Shady as the center, is known as East 
Liberty, to which the name of the railroad sta- 
tion, a short distance back, corresponds. 

For more than a mile, this section of Baum St. 
or Boulevard, is the "Automobile Row" of Pitts- 
burgh; even a run through without stop impresses 
the stranger with the number and variety of mo- 
tor car agencies, many occupying large and costly 
buildings. We continue across Negley Ave., and 
then Liberty Ave., the second downtown avenue 
extending a considerable distance east of the bus- 
iness section. Just beyond Liberty Ave., Baum 
Boulevard crosses a low stone bridge over the de- 
pressed tracks of the Pennsylvania R.R., and then 
the Atherton Ave. bridge over the Pittsburgh 
Junction R.R. 

Short Side-trip to Schenley Park 
Though now only about 3-miles from the end 
of this trip, unless the tourist plans to spend some 
additional time in and around Pittsburgh, a short 
detour to see portions of Schenley Park, the Car- 
negie Institute and the University of Pittsburgh, 
is recommended. [Whether this is done, or the 
direct route followed all the way in, the map, 
"Into and out of Pittsburgh," page 102, will be 
found a useful reference.] 

Where Baum Boulevard comes to an end at 
Craig St. (and a right turn continues the regular 
route downtown), turn left and follow Craig St. a 
half mile to the cathedral, corner of Fifth Ave. 
Turn right on Fifth Ave., and continue ahead 3 
squares, passing the Masonic Temple and Pitts- 
burgh Athletic Association (on left). Now turn 
left on Bigelow Boulevard, crossing Forbes St., 
direct into Schenley Park. The Carnegie Insti- 
tute buildings are in plain sight to the left (oppo- 
site the end of Bellefield Ave., one of the streets 
crossed in running from the Cathedral, at Craig 
St. and Fifth Ave., to Bigelow Boulevard, just be- 
fore entering the park). 

A few basic facts about this great educational 
foundation must suffice here. The Institute, 
founded by the late Andrew Carnegie in 1896, re- 
ceived from him thirty million dollars for con- 
struction, equipment and endowment. It com- 
prises the Museum, Fine Arts department. Music 
Hall, Library School, Library System (central 
library and eight branch libraries), and the great 
Institute of Technology, with an enrollment of 
about 4,000 students. The main building is a 



99 





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100 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



structure of classical type whose general dimens- 
ions are 400x600 feet. 

The Institute of Technology is primarily con- 
cerned with technical education, carrying out, as 
it were, the aims of Benjamin Franklin, on a plan 
far beyond the conceptions or facilities of his 
time. Its work is grouped mto four main divis- 
ions: (1) courses in engineering for men; (2) courses 
in the iine and applied arts for both men and 
women; (3) industrial courses for men, and (4) 
courses tor women which combine trammg for the 
home and for a profession. Each of the four sep- 
arate schools has its own building, faculty and 
students; each provides both day and evening in- 
struction. These are as follows: 

1. School of Applied Science, the engineering 
college. 

2. School of Applied Design, the art school. 

3. School of Applied Industries, the industrial 
school. 

4. Margaret Morrison Carnegie School, the 
college for women. 

The lasting impression from even passing 
glimpses of this great practical philanthropy is 
more than worth the brief time required to see 
these outward evidences of it. A drive through 
the main area of Schenley Park will increase the 
interest of the visitor. Inside the park, which is 
traversed by well-kept drives, are several histor- 
ical and other landmarks, and some notable mon- 
uments. 

One may run west a short distance from the 
Carnegie Institute along Forbes St. to a choice of 
short cross-streets leading to the grounds of the 
University of Pittsburgh, affording excellent views 
of it. Founded in 1787, this is the oldest institu- 
tion of learning, except the University of Nash- 
ville, Tenn., west of the Alleghanies. Besides the 
college, there are schools of education, econom- 
ics, engineering, mines, chemistry, medicine, law, 
dentistry, pharmacy and the graduate school. 

The close proximity of this old university, 
which is to receive a large bequest from Mr. 
Flick's will, to the much younger, heavily en- 
dowed Carnegie Institute, makes the locality one 
of possibly unequalled educational prominence. 
Turning right, along the south side of the Uni- 
versity grounds into the Bigelow Boulevard, one 
is headed back toward the through route, left at 
Baum Boulevard and Craig St. 

First Views of the Three Rivers 
Following Bigelow Boulevard (northward), the 
tourist comes back into the direct route at the an- 
gle of Craig St., 2-10-mile north of the point where 
it was left, at the end of Baum Boulevard, for the 
side-trip to the Carnegie Institute and the Uni- 
versity of Pittsburgh. [That small piece of Craig 
St. is the only part of the through route not cov- 
ered when the detour recommended is made]. 
Craig St. and this section of Bigelow Boulevard 
meet, as the map shows, like the blades of a pair 
of shears, nearly closed. 

Almost immediately the boulevard curves 
around to the left, unfolding a series of most in- 
teresting views. North and west, considerably 

101 



below, is the Allegheny river, along whose banks 
are a number of industries, though none as large 
as some of those beside the Monongahela south 
and southeast of here. Apparently every avail- 
able space in those industrial localities has been 
taken for residential purposes, literally "bunches" 
of homes being visible from these points of van- 
tage. 

This scenic roadway, leading down a rather 
steep grade, was known until a few years ago as 
the Grant Boulevard. After the death of E. M. 
Bigelow, who as Director of Public Works, City 
of Pittsburgh, was largely instrumental in build- 
ing that thoroughfare, it was renamed "Bigelow 
Boulevard" in his memory. 

Part of its right-of-way was cut through solid 
rock. Somewhat more than half-way down, the 
boulevard passes under an "incline" by which 
traffic is lifted from the river-front to nearby 
thoroughfares, over grades that could not be sur- 
mounted by ordinary means. 




Pbolo by Thomas R. Hartley, Pitlsburgb 

TABLET ON LINCOLN HIGHWAY LEADING INTO PITTS- 
BURGH, MARKING A LOCATION ON THE FORBES 
ROAD (1758) 

The long downgrade of this boulevard affords 
a most interesting view of the number and variety 
of bridges spanning the Allegheny. It may be 
worth while to stop in a carefully selected spot for 
a better view of them than can be had even when 
moving slowly. Looking as far as possible north- 
east, in fairly clear weather, one may see faint 
outlines of several bridges stretched across from 
the outlying north side of the greater city to the 
string of suburbs on the west side beyond the 
present city limits. 

Perhaps the farthest one easily identified is the 
great structure by which the Pennsylvania lines 
west of Pittsburgh are carried over. To the left 
(west) of that are four highway bridges across the 
Allegheny before its waters reach the "Point," 
the view of which is shut off in part by the great 
Union Bridge, the lowest down of all, and the 
buildings of the city now at our feet. To the 
south and southwest are some extremely limited 
views of the Monongahela. 



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102 



The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 



Through the Business Center 

Near the foot of the grade, Bigelow Boulevard 
passes the Pennsylvania R.R. station, on the 
right; and the tourist begins to encounter miscel- 
laneous downtown traffic. Continue with the 
main travel through Gazette Square, named after 
Pittsburgh's oldest newspaper, to Grant St. and 
Oliver Ave. (a short distance ahead). A short 
jog to the left, and a right turn into Oliver Ave., 
leads between the William Penn Hotel, on the 
right, and Union Arcade, on the left, about the 
beginning of the central business section and the 
most congested streets. 

The usual way through the business district is 
along Oliver Ave., crossing Smithfield St. (Oliver 
Building on right), to its end at Liberty Ave. Go- 
ing through without stop to the Lincoln Highway 
west of Pittsburgh, or to Cleveland and Great 
Lakes points generally, one would turn left from 
Oliver Ave. into Liberty Ave. and continue along 
same to cross the Allegheny river at the "Point." 

That, however, is beyond the scope of our pres- 
ent subject, which ends here, after traversing the 
historic old thoroughfare from the Delaware river 
at Philadelphia to the Ohio. The through route 
west ot Pittsburgh belongs to a considerably later 
period; and needs to be treated, as will probably 
be done in due time, from somewhat different 
angles. 

The "Block-House," Relic of Indian Wars 

The visitor in downtown Pittsburgh will find it 
convenient, as well as interesting, to look up the 
block-house, the only remaining landmark of co- 
lonial days at the "Forks of the Ohio." To reach 
it, after turning left from Oliver Ave. into Liberty 
Ave., continue on Liberty Ave. to its end at Water 
St., facing the Monongahela. Turn right on Wa- 
ter St. (river on left), and follow it past an alley tor 
the next right-hand street, Penn Ave., on which 
there are car tracks. Turning right on Penn Ave., 
one will see, on the left just beyond, the entrance 



to the block-house, reached by footway. 

Both Fort DuQuesne, the French post, and 
Fort Pitt, its English successor, were somewhat 
nearer the actual "Point," as the insert diagram 
in the lower left-hand corner of the map page 102 
will show; all traces of them have long since been 
removed. This block-house, or redoubt, was 
erected in 1764 by Col. Henry Bouquet, after that 
capable officer had relieved Fort Pitt from the In- 
dians who had secured possession during Pontiac's 
rebellion, the previous year. 

1 he building is 15x16 feet, 22 feet in height, and 
20 feet from the floor to the eaves of the roof. It 
was built of heavy logs, which still remain, though 
the old-fashioned clapboards with which it is cov- 
ered were a part of the considerable "restoration" 
necessary to adopt it to present uses. In 1894, 
Mrs. Mary E. Schenley deeded it to the Pitts- 
burgh Chapter, Daughters of the American Rev- 
olution, who now maintain it as a museum of co- 
lonial and Revolutionary relics. 

At the time of Col. Bouquet's expedition to re- 
lieve Fort Pitt in 1763, that fort had not been de- 
stroyed or seriously injured by the attack of the 
Indians. According to the map of Pittsburgh 
made in 1795, the southern end of Fort Pitt 
touched Liberty St., and extended across the 
present location of Penn Ave., about one-fourth 
of it being north of Penn Ave. This block-house 
was built outside of and just north of the fort 
proper; in no way intended as a substitute for the 
fort or place of refuge for the settlers, the small 
size precluding its use for such purposes. 

Washington's diary of his visit to this section 
in 1770, several years after the block-house was 
built, states that there were then about 20 log 
houses "ranged in streets along the Mononga- 
hela," and mostly inhabited by Indian traders. 
Western Pennsylvania was still exposed to the 
dangers of Indian raids, which accounts for the 
port-holes — used both for observation and to re- 
pel attacks — shown in the illustration,. 




Pboto bv Department oj Public 
Works, City oJ Pittsburgb 



"BLOCK-HOUSE," NEAR 
THE "POINT." PITTS- 
BURGH 




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^^ NOV 89 

N. MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA 46962 











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